Flyinfool

The thickness of new friction disks is 3mm (0.1181 inch) Worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch). Depending on how long your clutch was slipping when it first started slipping, it is possible to have worn it out already. AS for the half disc, You are there, change it. Whether you put in another half disc or change to a full disc is up to you based on personal preference. The full disk will give you a more solid lock up at the expense of a much narrower friction zone.

I know of a nice above ground pool free for the hauling....................

Sure looks like Sis is ready to head off to MD to me. Let her meet a bunch of her relatives. You know she wants to try out a full load on her back.

Not bad for a first try. When doing color it I do not mask and just let the color over spray blend the new and old together, then clear the whole panel. It is really hard to sand and buff that clear masking edge to make it disappear and blend. At least it was for me. Another trick is to move the mask line down to the pin stripe and the vertical one forward to the bolt hole for the chrome part. this helps to hide the edge and any color mismatch. I suppose I should get ambitions and go work on painting my saddle bag lid to match the rest of the bike. I may also then clear both lids just so the gloss (or in my case, the orange peel) matches.

Well you will need a really small pick and a magnifying glass to pick at my brain..................... But you are welcome to pick away. I work in Racine so I go thru Oak Creek every day. Twice.

I have had HID for the last 6 years, Love it. As far as I am concerned, LED is getting close but not there just yet. There is no LED bulb replacement that I have seen that is even close to HID. It is because the light is directional and the lens and reflector were designed for an omnidirectional light source. They just do not mix well. Another thing to watch for, My HID pulls 35W of power to get all that light, I have seen some of the LED replacement bulbs that are pulling 80W of power. Just because it is LED does not mean it is low power, Check the specs on what you are looking at. Now on the other hand if you get a setup that replaces the whole lens and reflector with something that was designed for LED, then they are right there in performance with HID. I have not seen anything that will replace the light on a 1st gen with an LED system that does not require a lot of reengineering. You are close, pop on over here and I will show you what I have on mine. To bad I did not see this an hour ago I had the headlight out of the bike and just finished putting it all back together.

It all depends on the condition of both vehicles as to whether it is a good deal. 58K miles is no big deal on these bikes. Check this out too. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1067-A-list-of-known-problems-on-the-Second-Gen-Venture

Just curious. Is there any oil in the old rear end? Was it a case of someone did an oil change and forgot to refill it? If it was a dealer then they owe you some parts. Now I wana see the inside of the rear end. Just morbid curiosity.

AND you have to think that all of those metal savings are now inside of the rear end and rear bearings. I agree with MiCarl if the rear was run with no oil I would not trust anything inside of it. I would also be looking over everything on the bike real close to check for other areas of never getting any maintenance.

Got a lint to what you have? In my book, my brakes are THE MOST important thing on any vehicle. I do not skimp on my ability to stop. Especially when the good name brand brakes are not very expensive and have a long service life and great stopping power.

Not to fear, I also have the soft buttery hands of a white collar guy. I make my living beating the hell out of a puter. The tools are for play. None will ever pay for themselves, but I have fun with them. My basement looks like it was nuked right now. I have to do a lot of cleaning before I could take any pics that I would want to show. Basement cleaning is a winter job............... But if you ever end up in the Milwaukee area, give me a shout.

There are just some jobs that are best done with a good old stick welder. But I must admit that it only took me a week after I bought my mig to sell off that old buzz box. There have been a few times I have missed it, like when one of those jobs comes up where a stick is the best choice. Nice find. If you like BIG old tools you would like my basement...............

Well if you take the express across, let me know, I am only about 4 miles from the dock.

To take the Lake Express Ferry would cost me $172 for one way or $315 round trip. Since Muskegon is north of me, it does not save anything as far as miles ridden and adds a couple of hours to the trip. That is part of the reason I leave home at 3am to get thru Chicago while most of them are still sleeping. To take the badger SS it would add 100 miles of driving and 6 hours to the trip at a cost of $123 one way or $239 round trip. Actually getting thru Chicago in the middle of the night is not to bad. It is the trip home going thru Chicago at 6-8pm that is dicey.

No one that I know. But there are always new people around that do not know any better.

Fix it yourself, there is always someone on here that knows the answer and can talk you through any diagnosis and repair. Then you get the satisfaction of learning something new and knowing it was done by someone who cares.

I think all gremlins speak the language of mayhem.

You mean you only got those wimpy skeeters that are afeared of a little fogging?

That could well be the case since you have not made it over here yet.................

Hmmmm, Interesting. I just went from 10W to 12.5 W and felt the "pogoing" at low speed got worse, I am thinking of trying 15W next.

For starters 122k is not really considered high mileage on these bikes. While it is not common I have read of cases where the input end of the pinion gear has snapped off. But this failure is much more common on the V-Max with its higher torque and horse power. Many people have chosen to change their Venture rear ends (3.33 rear ratio) to a V-max rear end (3.67 gear ratio) to get the slightly different gearing. And on the other end the V-max guys seem to like to swap to Venture rear ends for the slower gearing. Before I would start ordering expensive parts I would take it apart for a look see. There are a few things it could be. None of which are common failures.

Do the dash lights dim when at speed or mostly at idle. It is pretty normal for the turn signals to cause things to dim at low engine speeds where the charging system can not keep up, especially if you have any extra lights added to the signals. To test, hook an analog volt meter across the battery and put on the turn signal You will most likely see the needle wiggling in time with the flashes. Now start the bike and try the same at idle, and again at 2500+ RPM. The needles moment and dimming lights should be close to gone at the higher RPM. If the needle is not moving when connected across the battery but the dash lights are still dimming with the flasher then you do have a bad connection somewhere, It could be in either the power or the ground side.

If that ferry was not so darn expensive, I would be glad to take that and drag @cowpuc and you and maybe even a few others from MI all kicking and screaming all the way to MD. I am even closer to the ferry port than Puc is.

When is hubby's reunion? That is not real far from Orlins, WI MD on June 23-26. There will be a bunch of cheese heads there.

I cheated when I went to get mine out for drying, diodes, and relocation. Since so many people have said that you need to cut the ears off the TCI, AND the PO had already buggered up the screws by trying to use the wrong size screwdriver, I simply reached down from above with a corse tooth hacksaw blade, and cut the ears off in place. My TCI is now safely located in the left side of the fairing where it is out of the way, fairly accessible, and most important, dry. The mounting ears are still in their stock locations where I still can not get to them. As a note to anyone reading this that might actually want to remove the TCI without cutting, the correct screwdriver bit is a #3 JIS. Your #2 Phillips will just strip out the screw head.