Flyinfool

I might never be innocent, but I am never guilty either. I will continue to deny all knowledge and admit to less..............

You could probably mount a dozen Bad Boys on your bike and as long as they are powered from the battery through relays, they will each have full power to work with. Granted for the few seconds that the horns are blowing you might put a slight drain on the battery, but it would be less than the drain of starting the engine and the charging system will bring it right back up. Hmmmmmmm....... Where to mount a dozen Bad Boys...............................

I'll make it officially a bunch of us are waiting with baited breath.

Running a few blocks and then slowly dying out sounds like a fuel starvation issue. as in does it sound like it is running out of gas? Although it is not common to a 1st gen, check the tank vent to be sure it is not plugged, there are some insects that seem to love crawling up that vent tube to build a nest. If the tube is plugged or restricted then there will be a vacuum in the tank that will not allow fuel out. easy test is try a ride with the gas cap off. But be careful that you do not splash gas out of the tank onto a hot engine.

To bad it is not real.

The first connector you pictured I can not find on the wiring diagram, Without more info I have no idea what it is. The second one that might be a blue yellow and a black yellow in which case it could be two of the four wires that go to the clutch switch and is the starter circuit cutoff relay. Some one may have had issues with that and bypassed it. Again that switch is known to get dirty contacts. If it is bypassed then it means that you can now start the bike in gear or take off with the side stand down. Both potentially very dangerous. The computer acting weird could be an issue with the gear selector switch, there is a 6 pin connector between the switch and the computer, make sure all of the contacts are clean and you can test the switch with an ohm meter. one lead to ground and the other to each of the 6 wires. when the switch is in the position for the wire being tested ot should be near zero ohms, all the other wires should be infinite.

Yup there was another glitch tonight.

yup weak clutch spring and an easy fix.

The ins co may not sell it back to you but whomever they sell it to might sell it back to you.

Puc you know everyone just likes to pick on you............

Fortunately I am an old grey fat man and I will not live long enough to see the gas engine replaced.

If the headlight does actually switch then the wire butcher does have it all hooked up. You might just have dirty contacts in the Hi/Lo switch on the handlebar. I have to take that switch apart and clean it every other year when mine stops switching. Fuses wrapped in foil???? And I thought the pics you posted were bad..................

You needed an excuse to go somewhere anyhow.......

Glad you are going again. Your wife sounds like a keeper.

I painted a 68 Buick Wildcat with Rustolium and a roller, not to bad.

This may take some work to unhack the wire harness. I would start by going to the 1st gen library and downloading and printing the wiring diagram for your bike. We can then take some educated guesses as to what the PO may have done. My first guess is that he took out the RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit) he may have even cut out and bypassed the Hi/Lo switch. But we will get you thru this.

When was the last ime you greased the splins and pins in the rear wheel. They can do weird things when dry too.

Thread locker is an insulator. I added a lock washer.

Ouch, the site and chat went down again at 8:40 CDT, just for a few minutes. It went down hard and had to reboot my puter to get back.

Why use a brush, a roller is much faster.

Figures that if you had to get WI involved it would be a couple extra hundred. But WI don't care as long as it is money coming in. Is it still to good to be true?

Good thing you warned us and I was able to see the warning before it went down, otherwise I might have had a heart attack. So far all seems to be as it was.

It is not just the rubber parts that are destroyed. Ethanol needs a air to fuel ratio of about 7:1 and gas needs about 14:1. So if you put ethanol into an engine that has a fueling system (carbs or EFI) that is expecting gas and will mix it 14:1 with air. you will be running the engine WAY lean and burn holes in the pistons. This is also why gas containing ethanol gets worse miles per gallon than straight gas. Modern Flex Fuel cars the computer is able to determine the ethanol content of the fuel to keep the air : Fuel ratio correct for whatever it is being fed. Carburetors can not do this magic.

Now that you describe it, I do remember that there are HIDs that do move the shield and some that move the bulb. I have not seen one that moves both. I have never looked close at a HID that moves the shield. There is no discernible (to me) interruption in light with mine that moves just the bulb. I do know that the time it takes my bulb to move is less than the time it takes a filament to come to temperature and make light or to cool off to stop making light. I guess some night we will need to line a bunch of bikes up side by side, facing a wall, with all the different headlight technologies represented, and do a comparison.

Maybe you had a trapped air bubble that has worked its way out.