Flyinfool

Unfortunately, if a thief wants it, they will take it, and there really is nothing you can do to stop them short of sitting in the yard with a shotgun. The best to hope for is that the neighbors trailer looks to be an easier target than yours. It also helps to leave the trailer doors unlocked and nothing worth stealing inside. This gives them much less incentive to steal it just to see what is worth locking up inside it. So far I have found my trailer to be sitting open twice. Someone was disappointed that they went thru the effort and risk to open it for no gain. Because it was unlocked they did not have to do any damage to become disappointed. No it did not open itself. And it was not worth their while to steal the 2 bungee cords that hold my cooler down or the side stand plates that I give away for free at events.

I tried last year but it did not work out. So I am going to try again this year. The Harley museum has a restaurant on site for the FOOD part. then there are tours available for the museum. If it is something we might want to make a day of, there are packages that include factory tours of some other nearby businesses, Like Palmeros Pizza, with free samples, A distillery, several local breweries, Miller park tours to parts of the stadium that most people would never see. and a bunch of other possibilities. If the timing is right there are even tours of the HD plant. So is there enough interest for me to look into this any farther? Many of the better deals and discounts start with 15 people. How much fun would it be to fill a Harley parking lot with Yamahas.............

If you need to get creative and can not find any lockable storage. You could fold it all up just right, put it in a Zip Lock, and then mount the license plate over it. Yes you will need a screwdriver to retrieve it for a LEO. But needing a tool to get to it is the next best thing to needing a key to get to it. Just be sure to always have the right screwdriver in the bikes tool kit. You could even get fancy and mount the plate using security screws that need a special driver to get out.

Glad you got it, I would find something that will load it to near capacity like a space heater or small window air conditioner, and test it out at home before relying on it. That was actually my first impression also. But then I looked at where Greg is located and translated the English to American and all was good.............

IIRC Barnett offers heavy duty and extra heavy duty springs. You may just need the heavier spring set. Of course make sure that hydraulic side is working correctly first. When was the last time you changed the clutch and break fluid? Old fluid can also cause the clutch to not work correctly.

Based on the wiring diagram, there are 3 yellows because it don't matter. The red and the black do matter a lot. Suzuki_GS750.pdf

I always hate making do unless there is no other option. But this is a good option in a pinch. I bought the set from HF for $12 with a 20% off coupon. Now I have all the sizes so I can speed up the jobs by using an air ratchet on hex drive screws. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-and-12-drive-metric-hex-bit-socket-set-67880.html

I just have mine buried in so much junk that it is unlikely that they will find it. I will have a hard time finding it if I ever have to, and I know where to start looking.

Well wave when you go thru Milwaukee on your way to Ohio.

I used that same method for my RV trailer, but I used 4 stands and no weight on the tongue. My stands were tall enough that the tongue jack did not reach the ground, so it would not be easy to use to get the trailer off the stands. The drums might still be the low point, just hook up and pull it off the stands and worry about the tires later. But you are right, nothing will stop someone that is determined to take it, but that will stop the tempted lazy thief.

you have a 4 gallon tank plus a 1 gallon reserve. at 40 mpg you will get 160 miles and hit the reserve. you aint gonna git no 250 miles out of a tank.

Sounds good.. BUT

I might never be innocent, but I am never guilty either. I will continue to deny all knowledge and admit to less..............

You could probably mount a dozen Bad Boys on your bike and as long as they are powered from the battery through relays, they will each have full power to work with. Granted for the few seconds that the horns are blowing you might put a slight drain on the battery, but it would be less than the drain of starting the engine and the charging system will bring it right back up. Hmmmmmmm....... Where to mount a dozen Bad Boys...............................

I'll make it officially a bunch of us are waiting with baited breath.

Running a few blocks and then slowly dying out sounds like a fuel starvation issue. as in does it sound like it is running out of gas? Although it is not common to a 1st gen, check the tank vent to be sure it is not plugged, there are some insects that seem to love crawling up that vent tube to build a nest. If the tube is plugged or restricted then there will be a vacuum in the tank that will not allow fuel out. easy test is try a ride with the gas cap off. But be careful that you do not splash gas out of the tank onto a hot engine.

To bad it is not real.

The first connector you pictured I can not find on the wiring diagram, Without more info I have no idea what it is. The second one that might be a blue yellow and a black yellow in which case it could be two of the four wires that go to the clutch switch and is the starter circuit cutoff relay. Some one may have had issues with that and bypassed it. Again that switch is known to get dirty contacts. If it is bypassed then it means that you can now start the bike in gear or take off with the side stand down. Both potentially very dangerous. The computer acting weird could be an issue with the gear selector switch, there is a 6 pin connector between the switch and the computer, make sure all of the contacts are clean and you can test the switch with an ohm meter. one lead to ground and the other to each of the 6 wires. when the switch is in the position for the wire being tested ot should be near zero ohms, all the other wires should be infinite.

Yup there was another glitch tonight.

yup weak clutch spring and an easy fix.

The ins co may not sell it back to you but whomever they sell it to might sell it back to you.

Puc you know everyone just likes to pick on you............

Fortunately I am an old grey fat man and I will not live long enough to see the gas engine replaced.

If the headlight does actually switch then the wire butcher does have it all hooked up. You might just have dirty contacts in the Hi/Lo switch on the handlebar. I have to take that switch apart and clean it every other year when mine stops switching. Fuses wrapped in foil???? And I thought the pics you posted were bad..................