Flyinfool

OK another tangent, Maybe you have the beginnings of a ground issue with the factory lights. Try running a temp ground direct from battery to the factory lights.

Thinking can be such a dangerous thing............ There is a device that you can buy that plugs into the harness between the trans and the engine computer that will lie to the engine computer about how fast you are going and it effectively removes the speed limits. BUT the system still knows how fast you were going and will kill the engine and drive line warranties because you have exceeded the design limitations.

OK Puc, lets use your dyno graph that you posted. Lets start by looking at just the Bemmer lines because it is more visually evident. (although it holds true for both sets, Honda just did a better job of making nice straight lines so it is hard to visually spot the dips and bumps) Everyplace that there is a peak or valley in the torque or HP lines, there is a matching peak or valley in the other line. This is because they are mathematically tied together. You can pick any point you want along the graph and that math formula will still work out exactly. A tuner can move those lines all over the place to achieve a specific goal. A good tuner can put the peak HP the peak torque any where he wants them but the relationship between torque and HP will mathematically follow. But no tuner in the world can move one line without the other line also moving a proportional amount. This is because the math don't lie. If you really want to melt down, look at some metric dyno charts where the power is measured in Watts and the torque is measured in Newton-meters. Run the vary same engine measuring in metric units and every chart will have a different crossover point and many charts will never cross. BUT is the same engine under the same conditions just different units of measure and the lines never cross, BUT if you do the math conversions to convert from metric to imperial you will find that you once again have identical dyno charts. You can not escape the fact that HP=RPMxTorque)/5252. The formula is defining the crossover point, Do you see the 5252 in the formula That is WHY all imperial dyno charts cross at 5252, because the formula says torque will equal HP at 5252. Please pick ANY imperial dyno chart you like and pick a random RPM and apply the formula and you will ALWAYS get the HP number from the same chart. I know you spent a lifetime believing that there is something magic about 5252, but there just scientifically is not. I'll bet there are a bunch probably/maybe even a majority of people that do not understand to relationship between torque and HP, but a majority vote can not change the laws of physics. A majority once believed the world was flat.

I bet you would love to sit down with that presenter from the SVTC unveiling about now for a case of I told you sos..... I wonder just how much modding it would take for Yami to shoe horn the V max motor into an SVTC today????? Would it fit in the frame? would it just be a matter of moving a few mounting points? Maybe a stronger drive line. ps There is nothing other than math that is special about 5252 rpm. Actually the number is 5252.11312203 RPM. It has zero to do with engine design, capability or anything else. Torque is a measured thing HP is calculated using the formula HP = (RPM X torque) ÷ 5252. So torque will always equal HP at 5252 rpm, the formula says so. So when that Dyno chart is run and then printed, all they did was measure the Torque and the RPM and then apply the formula to create the HP curve. Dynos do not and can not actually measure HP. Flame Suit ON:225:

Keep an eye on PP and any bank accounts that you have linked to them, they have been know to get there money back that way. They may also close your account until you refund them, Or they may just get their money back from the seller like they should have in the first place. Just keep a close eye on things.

I do not know if there is a market for more valve tools. I still have a couple left from the last batch I made. They are not cheap to make, it wears out a few Benjamin's worth of cutters. I have a hard time charging friends for me to play. I would never make money at being a machinist in my basement. Most of my machines are even older than I am.

Does it do the same thing with the turn signals?

OK, another easy test. go into the tail light and unplug just the Custom Dynamics tail light leaving the stock turn signals connected and see what that does????

Thanks Bum You do know that you are only as old as you feel, So I guess that means I am106 years old. I had never even thought of having my Dr say that I should stay at home. But then I do not think that I am high risk either. I have only been sick twice in my adult life. At least my employer has made it quite clear that they would really like to have me back once this Covid thing is over if I am still available. That does remove a bit of the stress of being desperate for a new job. But of course i am still out job hunting.

Since you did test them by connecting direct to the battery and they worked fine, Then I am sure we can get these to work on your bike. It just takes a long time to sort thru using a forum.

Now my curiosity is overflowing. Do you have a link to these lights? There is now smoke pouring out my ears. This is getting to be more fun by the minute.

AHHHhhhhhh........... the plot thickens. I do not think you need or want the converter box, that might be your whole issue. I think if you try it without the converter you will be happy. The LED strips ARE a 5 wire system You have You have Brake, Run, Left turn, Right turn and ground. This matches the lights of a 2nd gen perfectly with no converter needed. The converters are needed for trailer lights that are 4 wire systems where the same bulb element is used for both brake and turn. Your LED strips have a separate yellow element for the turns just like a 5 wire system.

Did you find the limiter? My truck has a limiter that will reduce engine power at 105 MPH.

I was referring to testing the LED strips with the breakout harness unplugged at both ends. If you want to run up here to mess with it I am game. I just got laid off so I can not travel but I do have a lot of time on my hands. Didn't you make it up here once for lunch at the Final Approach for one of my March get togethers?? Since the red turns off when the yellow comes on that means that there is some circuitry in the LED strips to do this, it is possible that this is not playing well with the wiring of the bike. If this is the case then I may just need a few properly placed isolation diodes to keep all the lights from talking to each other. Of course once we solve it we will have to post how for the next person that follows this link. HA! some of these test I can probably do a lot faster than I can type out how to do.

Falling asleep is not usually something that causes a sudden going limp. You can be pretty much asleep and still have enough of the brain working in the background to not let you fall over. I do it all the time falling asleep in a chair and not tipping over. If you become unconscious or become deceased, then there is nothing left to keep you upright. A friend of mine lost his 28 YO son when he passed away on a bike ride with his friends, he had the cruise set and passed away at 60 MPH, when the road turned he didn't. The coroner said he was deceased before impact.

The rear master is not real bad to remove. see if you can get it out and if it will come apart so that you can clean it up or determine for sure that it needs to be replaced. If it is actually frozen then there is likely water in the system and the left front and rear calipers and maybe even some of the brake lines might also be toast. It is only the right front caliper that is operated from the hand brake. And if you are going to have everything apart anyhow it may be the perfect time to delink the brakes to make them work like every other bike. First time you need brakes on loose gravel you will be glad to have them delinked.

I don't know that you did the correct tests with the ohm meter. You need to check for continuity from yellow to red and from yellow to white. There should be none. There should be continuity from white red and yellow to black. You need to check this with the both ends of the harness unplugged so that you are checking just the LED strip and the test is not being influenced any other circuits in the bike. The more we work on this it does not sound like this is the issue. It may be an issue with other things on the bike. But one test at a time or we will all get cornfused. With your LED strips, Do you know if the red turns off while the yellow is lit or does the yellow just overpower the red, or are they playing games with light mixing to make the yellow? I have some more ideas but I have to let some more smoke out of my ears yet before I have you check it. I sure wish you were closer, I enjoy noodleing thru issues like this.

The article does not indicate whether there was a backrest or not, I does say she went limp and then fell off. It is entirely possible that there was a backrest and she fell out the side.

If you were closer I would consider it, But I really dread the thought of relocating, or that 160 miles each way would be a pretty long commute. I have well over 6,000 lbs in just 3 of the machines in my basement. Where I was working we made parts for firetrucks.

Idle minds, especially mine can be a dangerous thing. You better find me a job quick before I do something crazy.

I hope that is the solution as it is an easy one.

Soaking your corn before grill is nothing like boiling meat where the boiling removes much of the flavor. Soaking corn is a very proper thing to do. Yes there are some things that must be wrapped in foil to grill as there is no other way to control it. Things like sauted onions and/or mushrooms and/or some veggies, where they would otherwise just fall thru the grate of the grill and be lost in the coals. But that is still not the same as covering the whole grill and cooking the meat on the foil to to keep out the grill flavors.

Funny that you should mention that. I don't know if you recall that @cowpuc,, a couple of years ago had tasked me with inventing some high temperature snow. His target for me was and still is 60°. I did send him a sample of my progress when i dumped on him late last spring at 48°, not quite 60° but showing progress. And now i have time to play with some new ideas, and nothing else to keep my devious little mind busy. I had put this on the side cuz i was so busy working at my new job I had very little time to even play with the WWW machine this winter cuz I was to busy working. To late, I have incredible hearing........... 1Just for you Puc

Do not try to handle it online with PP. You need to call at work with a human. The computers simply look for tracking and delivery. I human is able to understand that there is no way the ordered item could fit in that envelope. It also matter a lot to the computer as to what option you click for your reason for the complaint. If you picked item not delivered then it will look no farther than the tracking number. since they did send something you have to use the item not as described. I would call PP and talk to a human. I would also call the CC and have them start the refund from their end. That will also prod PP in to taking your side. Again with the CC do not use the online computers, talk to a human. If you still can get copies of the web page you ordered from and print them out to prove that you were not intending to pay $97 for a sheet of smiley faces. I just went thru this same thing over a Kurig coffee maker last November. We received a single sock of a size to fit a newborn child instead of the coffee maker. It took a month and a half but PP eventually sided with me. I had to provide them with pics of the add that I purchased from and pics of what was received and I had to explicitly ponit out that it was impossible for the correct item to fit in that tiny envelope. The tracking number may also show the weight of the package that was sent, It wioll not be the weight of the tools. But you have to point this out to them, You will be dealing with someone that has no clue of what your tool is. Take nothing as common since, you must explane every single detail to them.

I agree, precooking for the grill is a no no, especially boiling sausages. The other grill technique that makes me crazy is covering the grill with foil to cook on. If you do that you might just as well fry it in a pan on the stove in the kitchen, the foil will prevent the meat from picking up any of the wonderful BBQ flavors.