Flyinfool

I never said it was easy to get it back in there with that much preload. Good thing I am an old grey fat man............... Tonnage rules............ OK, so from the combination of all the advice above I will start by removing the plastic spacer and leave in the factory aluminum one with the O-ring. I will try this configuration for a while to see how it works. This should drop the front end to almost the height that it was before. this way I can always add more spacer back in if needed. I do have the anti dive still hooked up and will keep it for now. If I like the handling I will dig back in and try with the AD disconnected. I may compromise and try the 10 second relay idea.

Puc I sure hope you studied for your tests today. Watch out for them docs they can do trick questions in these tests and end up finding completely unrelated stuff they weren't even looking for and you never studied for. GOOD LUCK!!

If you buy your gaskets and parts from Skydoc_17 he has a loaner shim kit. It is so much easier to have a kit handy while doing the job.

This is the one I have that does both isolation and 5 to 4 wire conversion. At $19.06 it is not that much more than the non isolating one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-56187-3-wire-to-2-wire-System-Tail-Light-Converter-/311602331401?hash=item488cf23f09

The one that Yamaglr posted above is an example of the non isolating non powered type. Yest it would be easiest to hook up because you just add a 5 pin connector that matches your bike to the "car" side and the other side goes to the 4 pin connector on the trailer. With that said, I would also agree with M61A1MECH that it is much better to use a powered isolator to run the trailer lights. Another important feature to look for is that the controller that you get is compatible with BOTH incandescent and LED lights. The HF trailer that you have comes with incandescent lights, once you see how weak they are in the daylight you may want to upgrade to brighter LED lights at some point. The LED conversion will also draw a lot less amps than the stock incandescent will, your bikes charging system will appreciate that. There are still a lot of converters out on the market that have old enough technology in them that they will not work with LED. And there are some that can not handle the amp draw of incandescent. Of course the other option is to rewire the trailer to be a 5 wire trailer. That is not difficult or expensive to do either. Total cost will be close to a wash regardless of which way you go.

Could that be considered a theft deterrent?

Well then I must be a wimp, cuz I refuse to get old.

To say that he bought it with the carbs just having been done but now it does not run right and given reason is bad gas tells me it has been sitting and not stored properly and carbs need to be done again. I also am not sure what the oil and dope are? It may have been worth the 6900 he paid 2 years ago when the tires were fresh and it was running good, but now needs work and is 2 years older and is not worth what he paid. Now that the ebay community has told him that it is worth 3600 might be the time to contact him to make a deal.

OK have to ask the obvious questions. When you turn the handle is it spinning in the hole? Does the key turn in the lock? Does the key even go into the lock?

I guess in about an hour this guy will find out that it don't always work that you can buy a vehicle, drive it for 2 years and expect to get back what you paid. IF that were a factory Yamaha trike, I would think that it would have complemented the lines of the bike at least a little bit and not just be a big square block. I think @Prairiehammer knows more about first gen models than anyone.

I guess a false alarm is better than a real one. So what freebies is the hotel giving out for your inconvenience...............?

Puc, You win already. Stop finding new ways to abuse yourself......... You get well and we can find lots of ways to at least verbally abuse you. Besides you still need to make a trip over here some time to see some toys fly. Unfortunately I know what a toll all this med stuff can have on a person, both physically and mentally. Oh, and tell Tippy thanks for being downright cantankerous...... Prayers are out for both you and your buddy.

Also make sure you are using the correct feelers. That intake that is at "0.004mm", there is no such thing as a feeler that thin. 0.004mm is equal to 0.00015 inch are you sure that you did not use a 0.004 inch feeler for that one? 0.004 inch is .10mm which would make more sense. As mentioned the valve clearance gets tighter as things wear, counterintuitive but that is how it works. If the clearance gets down to zero you will burn up that valve because it does not close and it is while it is in contact with the seat that it can transfer its heat to the head for cooling. Usually, it is the exhaust valves that wear the fastest. When I did mine at 50K there were 2 exhaust valves at 0.001 inch (0.02mm) so they were right on the edge of dying. I set all of my valves to the high side of the range to give the most room for future wear. Depending on the shims you have available, you may have to settle for anywhere in the range.

Is this the one you are thinking of? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?77042-MORE-lights

Royal Star Tour Deluxe. It is kind of like a stripped down RSV.

Since this post is from back in '09, a LOT has changed in the world of LEDs in the last 7 years. Most of what is mentioned above is now obsolete.

Just ride on the edges from now on they still look like new. It is only the middle that is worn out.

You want a launch ramp......... https://youtu.be/pCzfTiIp97Y

I do not have the 4 inch long OEM spacer The spacer I am referring to is item 28,60 and its O-ring Unfortunately you can not easily raise the tubes in the clamps. To do that you would have to permanently get rid of the CLASS or air system for the front and seal (weld?) the air holes in the tubes closed. Then you could remove the air collars (item 68, 69 and 74 in above pic) and be able to slide the tubes up in the clamps, and i don't remember if there is even room to do that before the tubes would hit the hit the handle bars.

The turn signal part might be close enough to a 2nd gen to get some clues from that wiring diagram. Just a WAG here.

OK, So I got my progressives installed and they are way better than the worn out stock springs. I used the full 1 inch plastic spacers, and the the OEM aluminum spacer with the O-ring on it. The front of the bike is now about 1.5 inches higher than it was before with zero air in the front. The biggest issue I have now is low speed handling, trying to ride at a walking speed is almost impossible for me now, With the old saggy springs I could ride to a stop and go and not have to put my feet down. I cave tried every combination of how much rear brake and clutch feathering to try to stabilize but to no avail. The bike just now feels really top heavy. I have almost dropped it twice coming to a stop. I am wondering if I take out some or most of the spacer, will that lower the front end and give me back some of my low speed handling. Kind of like many seem to do with the 2nd gens by going with a smaller front tire or sliding the forks up in the tree. I just have never played with bike suspension so I do not know what changes will have what effect. I don't want to fix the low and create a high speed issue.

I'll take a good old fashion northern blizzard over that heat nonsense any day. I can dress for a blizzard and spend the day outside and be safe and comfortable, that heat is just plain deadly.

If the blower is that good at moving dust, hit the car with the blower and that dust should blow right off.

Whew, I thought I was the only one that was clueless and needed to test stuff.......................

I went to do a test in the testing area today. I noticed that there were no other posts in the testing area. Was this simply cleared or do things self clear after a fixed time? Is this something new?