Flyinfool

I have a hunting rifle that I refinished the stock with a flat 2K automotive clear. It has held up great to all of the beating that a gun takes going thru dense woods with out a mark of any kind. It also stands up to all of the chemicals used in the maintenance of a rifle. I found it very easy to work with. It only took 3 coats of the clear over bare wood to get to what would have been a mirror finish if I had used gloss clear. If you want I can look and see if I still have the old dried out cans of flat clear to see exactly which brand and formulation I used.

I just found out that Erika suffered an injury while there. She ended up pulling something in her side, it was from too much laughing........................

I have seen a system that was actual AC that mounted on the back seat and had hoses connected to blow the cold air thru a special vest. http://entrosys.com/

To bad you missed it this weekend. You could have jumped onto the Venture and had a guided tour around some of the best riding in Wisconsin at Orlins MD in Veroqua WI. Not to mention meeting a bunch of us trouble makers and even foced to have some really good icecream and pizza, and chicken and and and .......

Thank you Orlin, we had a blast. You and your family are wonderful hosts. Even though Erika did not talk much she still had fun. I do have a few pics and some ride video that I need to figure out how to prep for uploading.

If you are that worried about the lose of value due to a "potential crash" then you should not take either one and sell them both. The crash scenario would not even enter into my thought process. If the 2 of you plan to ride together then you have already answered your question. Gotta keep Mama happy.

Just don't yank it by the connector, pull on just the wires.

Check your rear brake pads, the fluid level will also go down as the pads wear and the pistons move farther out. Since you are only finding where the brake fluid goes now, it might just be time for a fluid flush to get new fluid in there. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed at least every 2 years. Oh yea, good thing you did not top it off with antifreeze..............

Well Puc at least you are hitting 50% in your delusional state. I will give you that you are taller than me..... I do have the 12.5W oil in there.

Double check all of your crimps to be sure they are good. Also double check the grounds.

Where do I get me one of those daddies????

Good Luck!

I never said it was easy to get it back in there with that much preload. Good thing I am an old grey fat man............... Tonnage rules............ OK, so from the combination of all the advice above I will start by removing the plastic spacer and leave in the factory aluminum one with the O-ring. I will try this configuration for a while to see how it works. This should drop the front end to almost the height that it was before. this way I can always add more spacer back in if needed. I do have the anti dive still hooked up and will keep it for now. If I like the handling I will dig back in and try with the AD disconnected. I may compromise and try the 10 second relay idea.

Puc I sure hope you studied for your tests today. Watch out for them docs they can do trick questions in these tests and end up finding completely unrelated stuff they weren't even looking for and you never studied for. GOOD LUCK!!

If you buy your gaskets and parts from Skydoc_17 he has a loaner shim kit. It is so much easier to have a kit handy while doing the job.

This is the one I have that does both isolation and 5 to 4 wire conversion. At $19.06 it is not that much more than the non isolating one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-56187-3-wire-to-2-wire-System-Tail-Light-Converter-/311602331401?hash=item488cf23f09

The one that Yamaglr posted above is an example of the non isolating non powered type. Yest it would be easiest to hook up because you just add a 5 pin connector that matches your bike to the "car" side and the other side goes to the 4 pin connector on the trailer. With that said, I would also agree with M61A1MECH that it is much better to use a powered isolator to run the trailer lights. Another important feature to look for is that the controller that you get is compatible with BOTH incandescent and LED lights. The HF trailer that you have comes with incandescent lights, once you see how weak they are in the daylight you may want to upgrade to brighter LED lights at some point. The LED conversion will also draw a lot less amps than the stock incandescent will, your bikes charging system will appreciate that. There are still a lot of converters out on the market that have old enough technology in them that they will not work with LED. And there are some that can not handle the amp draw of incandescent. Of course the other option is to rewire the trailer to be a 5 wire trailer. That is not difficult or expensive to do either. Total cost will be close to a wash regardless of which way you go.

Could that be considered a theft deterrent?

Well then I must be a wimp, cuz I refuse to get old.

To say that he bought it with the carbs just having been done but now it does not run right and given reason is bad gas tells me it has been sitting and not stored properly and carbs need to be done again. I also am not sure what the oil and dope are? It may have been worth the 6900 he paid 2 years ago when the tires were fresh and it was running good, but now needs work and is 2 years older and is not worth what he paid. Now that the ebay community has told him that it is worth 3600 might be the time to contact him to make a deal.

OK have to ask the obvious questions. When you turn the handle is it spinning in the hole? Does the key turn in the lock? Does the key even go into the lock?

I guess in about an hour this guy will find out that it don't always work that you can buy a vehicle, drive it for 2 years and expect to get back what you paid. IF that were a factory Yamaha trike, I would think that it would have complemented the lines of the bike at least a little bit and not just be a big square block. I think @Prairiehammer knows more about first gen models than anyone.

I guess a false alarm is better than a real one. So what freebies is the hotel giving out for your inconvenience...............?

Puc, You win already. Stop finding new ways to abuse yourself......... You get well and we can find lots of ways to at least verbally abuse you. Besides you still need to make a trip over here some time to see some toys fly. Unfortunately I know what a toll all this med stuff can have on a person, both physically and mentally. Oh, and tell Tippy thanks for being downright cantankerous...... Prayers are out for both you and your buddy.

Also make sure you are using the correct feelers. That intake that is at "0.004mm", there is no such thing as a feeler that thin. 0.004mm is equal to 0.00015 inch are you sure that you did not use a 0.004 inch feeler for that one? 0.004 inch is .10mm which would make more sense. As mentioned the valve clearance gets tighter as things wear, counterintuitive but that is how it works. If the clearance gets down to zero you will burn up that valve because it does not close and it is while it is in contact with the seat that it can transfer its heat to the head for cooling. Usually, it is the exhaust valves that wear the fastest. When I did mine at 50K there were 2 exhaust valves at 0.001 inch (0.02mm) so they were right on the edge of dying. I set all of my valves to the high side of the range to give the most room for future wear. Depending on the shims you have available, you may have to settle for anywhere in the range.