Flyinfool

You could always put a tracking app on her phone so that you always know where, when and how fast. Yup there was no such thing as a cell phone when my 3 girls learned to drive. The worst is when they are even 1 minute late from when they were supposed to be somewhere, that is where you get to start spinning in circles.

DOT 4 has a higher boiling point when fresh out of the bottle. Dot 4 also absorbs water faster than DOT 3 and the water will cause either to have a lower boiling point. It does not take long for the DOT 4 boiling point to drop below the boiling point of DOT 3. So IF you are super religious about changing your brake and clutch fluid very regularly then DOT 4 may be a better choice. IF you wait a few years between changes then DOT 3 is probably a better choice. The listed boiling points for DOT 3 and 4 are MINIMUMs, there are DOT 3 fluids with higher boiling points than some DOT 4 fluids.

A sticky or dragging clutch when hot is often moisture in the clutch fluid. The engine heat causes the moisture to form air bubbles that will make the clutch not fully disengage. Another good reason to flush and change the clutch fluid and both the front and rear brake fluids. When you check your brake pads, you have to check both the inner and outer pads, they often wear unevenly one can look great and the other can be gone. As far as to whether you use DOT 3 or DOT4, use whichever works best for you. They each have pros and cons.

For starters. These bikes run like poo with the air cleaner off. But you have an electrical problem. The Tach is driven from the signal to the #2 coil, your tach keeps dropping to zero at the same time it runs worse. You are losing spark to one or more cylinders. I would start by cleaning the pins in all of the connectors to the coils and to the TCI (Ignition box). AND put the air box and air filter back on. While it is running look down into the carbs, all 4 slides should be dancing the same. if not then you also have some carb issues. But start with fixing the known problems first, the lack of spark and the missing air filter.

You can use any kind of engine oil and be safe as long as it specifically states for use with a wet clutch. Many automotive oils with friction reducers will cause the clutch to slip. May people have a favorite oil that is not motorcycle specific and have found that it works. Experiment at your own risk, to me the motorcycle specific oils are not that much more expensive to justify the risk of experimenting to save $5 or even $10 on an oil change. Synthetic oil is better than dino oil, but if you have any weak seals, synthetic is much better at escaping through any weak seals and making a mess.

Sounds like the ignition switch might be going out. This is a well known weak point. There is a member that makes a kit to add a relay that will take the electrical load off of the weak switch.

Looks pretty good this time, I think you are getting the hang of it.

That aint greasy, that's rust preventative................... AND and it is slippery so it slides through the air faster............yea thats it..............

Unfortunately I do know that it is California, all that emissions crap is always in my way and I am not sure how to get rid of it properly. I'll bet it don't even work anymore. I did not know it was Cali when I bought it, I found out the first time I went to sync the carbs, and have been pissing and moaning about it ever since. There are vacuum lines everywhere and canisters and crap and it is all in the way..............

And from the bike that most thought did not exist. My 88 standard. I'll have you know that I had to create a clean spot to get that pic............ I sure hope I did not clean off any of the dirt that was holding the bike together.............

You have to take off either the water pump or the thermostat housing to get that elbow off. It kind of depends on what other stuff you might want to do "While you are in there". If you take off the water pump, I would put in new seals while it is off. If you go for the thermostat housing, I would consider putting in a 4 brush starter or doing the ground mod on your existing starter, and/or heavier starting cables, and at a minimum, new seals in the thermostat housing and the drain valve. On mine I went the thermostat side since I was having the slow hot start issue and needed to get the starter out anyhow. The thermostat has to come out to get the starter out.

Well since you need/want a buzz bomb, there is this one http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-matte-clear.html. It is still a 2 part matte clear but in a spray can. Once you mix it you have to use it all as it will harden in the can in about 48 hours. I have not used it but do know others that have used the gloss versions on model aircraft and been happy with the results.

OK, just so that @cowpuc can finally stop counting, here are the few pics that I did take and a short vid from the Saturday ride. The beginnings of the campfire Views around the camp area. Poor Moe and Curly sure looked lonely trying to find ol Puc and the famous Tippy, and their best friend Tweeks. A short Ride Vid. The audio is mostly the AC in my truck with the GPS and the stereo in the background. OK, So I never claimed to be any good at pics............... And even worse at video.............

I have a hunting rifle that I refinished the stock with a flat 2K automotive clear. It has held up great to all of the beating that a gun takes going thru dense woods with out a mark of any kind. It also stands up to all of the chemicals used in the maintenance of a rifle. I found it very easy to work with. It only took 3 coats of the clear over bare wood to get to what would have been a mirror finish if I had used gloss clear. If you want I can look and see if I still have the old dried out cans of flat clear to see exactly which brand and formulation I used.

I just found out that Erika suffered an injury while there. She ended up pulling something in her side, it was from too much laughing........................

I have seen a system that was actual AC that mounted on the back seat and had hoses connected to blow the cold air thru a special vest. http://entrosys.com/

To bad you missed it this weekend. You could have jumped onto the Venture and had a guided tour around some of the best riding in Wisconsin at Orlins MD in Veroqua WI. Not to mention meeting a bunch of us trouble makers and even foced to have some really good icecream and pizza, and chicken and and and .......

Thank you Orlin, we had a blast. You and your family are wonderful hosts. Even though Erika did not talk much she still had fun. I do have a few pics and some ride video that I need to figure out how to prep for uploading.

If you are that worried about the lose of value due to a "potential crash" then you should not take either one and sell them both. The crash scenario would not even enter into my thought process. If the 2 of you plan to ride together then you have already answered your question. Gotta keep Mama happy.

Just don't yank it by the connector, pull on just the wires.

Check your rear brake pads, the fluid level will also go down as the pads wear and the pistons move farther out. Since you are only finding where the brake fluid goes now, it might just be time for a fluid flush to get new fluid in there. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed at least every 2 years. Oh yea, good thing you did not top it off with antifreeze..............

Well Puc at least you are hitting 50% in your delusional state. I will give you that you are taller than me..... I do have the 12.5W oil in there.

Double check all of your crimps to be sure they are good. Also double check the grounds.

Where do I get me one of those daddies????

Good Luck!