Flyinfool

IF you can find them, use left hand drill bits to drill out the stud, I have found that often the drill bit will catch and spin the stud out before you ever get to the easy out. I bought a set of easy outs and then bought all of the correct drills in left hand to keep with the set of easy outs.

Don't be startin rumors here. I already have a hard time getting my head through the doors......................

I have not seen you up here by me yet, or you have not headed out flying with me. So when will you be here? Right now i am just sitting in the back hall stairing at my new stares that I HAD to build over the holiday........ (puns intended) Ever get to watch an internal combustion engine run at 125K rpm? See you have led a boring sheltered life and not seen much.....................

I agree with Djh3. Checking them is not a difficult job but it is very time consuming as they are not real easy to get to. I checked mine at 50K and there were several exhaust valve right at the point of ready to blow the engine. They we under .001 clearance. If you hit zero you will burn the valve out of the engine. As mentioned there are others like @cowpuc that have gone 300K miles and never checked them and had no problems. Do you feel lucky??? As far as actually have valve problems other that scheduled maintenance, it is very very rare and usually tied to abuse.

Just put a bit of engine oil on the working parts. The taper fit on the end of the crank and inside of flywheel should remain dry. About 2 seconds after the engine starts it will be doused in engine oil anyhow.

I am sitting around watching batteries charging, that ranks right up there with watching paint dry. Talk to ya later in boring ol chat...............

I had a case where a 16 yo girl hit the side of my big red truck on here first day with here new license. No one was hurt and there was no damage to my truck and she had a wrinkled fender and a cut tire. Of course the first thing she did was call daddy. Daddy said for her to call 911 and he would be right there............. That part had me worried, I did not want to deal with a freaked out dad thinking that I tried to hurt his baby girl. The police made it there before daddy and she already admitted to the LEO that she made a lane change and did not notice this big red truck next to her. Her front tire hit my drivers door so I was actually ahead of her. Once Daddy was sure that no one was hurt him and I spent the rest of the time that the LEO was there discussing deer hunting. Daddy also thought that this should be a learning experience and since I had no damage for her to pay for he insisted that she come to my house and wash and wax my whole truck for my inconvenience. She got a workout that day for sure. There is a lot of surface area on my truck. So while an accident is likely, it is not always going to happen. I had a million miles in before my first accident. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good.

As far as getting better braking from what you already have. 1. Make sure the the seals on your front forks are not leaking. There is nothing that will overcome fork oil getting on the pads. 2. Put in EBC HH pads all around. The HH have a lot more grip than the stock pads. 3. As mentioned above, since you already did half of a delink, get that left front brake hooked up to the front master, you do not need a proportioning valve. 4. Get rid of the proportioning valve from the rear. You do not need it reducing pressure to the rear to keep balance with the front that is not there. 5. Do a good flushing of the brake and clutch fluid. The fluid should be changed every 2 years anyhow. This will all take minimal funds to accomplish and get you better braking until you are ready to do all of the work needed to do the R1s. If your fork seals are leaking, then this is the perfect time to change out to the MKII lower forks while it is all apart anyhow.

You can safely grind about .010 inch (0.12 mm) off of a shim and not have to heat treat. That means a 200 shim can be taken to a 188.

And the Bike Hopper is blaming my Rum Balls...............

You could always put a tracking app on her phone so that you always know where, when and how fast. Yup there was no such thing as a cell phone when my 3 girls learned to drive. The worst is when they are even 1 minute late from when they were supposed to be somewhere, that is where you get to start spinning in circles.

DOT 4 has a higher boiling point when fresh out of the bottle. Dot 4 also absorbs water faster than DOT 3 and the water will cause either to have a lower boiling point. It does not take long for the DOT 4 boiling point to drop below the boiling point of DOT 3. So IF you are super religious about changing your brake and clutch fluid very regularly then DOT 4 may be a better choice. IF you wait a few years between changes then DOT 3 is probably a better choice. The listed boiling points for DOT 3 and 4 are MINIMUMs, there are DOT 3 fluids with higher boiling points than some DOT 4 fluids.

A sticky or dragging clutch when hot is often moisture in the clutch fluid. The engine heat causes the moisture to form air bubbles that will make the clutch not fully disengage. Another good reason to flush and change the clutch fluid and both the front and rear brake fluids. When you check your brake pads, you have to check both the inner and outer pads, they often wear unevenly one can look great and the other can be gone. As far as to whether you use DOT 3 or DOT4, use whichever works best for you. They each have pros and cons.

For starters. These bikes run like poo with the air cleaner off. But you have an electrical problem. The Tach is driven from the signal to the #2 coil, your tach keeps dropping to zero at the same time it runs worse. You are losing spark to one or more cylinders. I would start by cleaning the pins in all of the connectors to the coils and to the TCI (Ignition box). AND put the air box and air filter back on. While it is running look down into the carbs, all 4 slides should be dancing the same. if not then you also have some carb issues. But start with fixing the known problems first, the lack of spark and the missing air filter.

You can use any kind of engine oil and be safe as long as it specifically states for use with a wet clutch. Many automotive oils with friction reducers will cause the clutch to slip. May people have a favorite oil that is not motorcycle specific and have found that it works. Experiment at your own risk, to me the motorcycle specific oils are not that much more expensive to justify the risk of experimenting to save $5 or even $10 on an oil change. Synthetic oil is better than dino oil, but if you have any weak seals, synthetic is much better at escaping through any weak seals and making a mess.

Sounds like the ignition switch might be going out. This is a well known weak point. There is a member that makes a kit to add a relay that will take the electrical load off of the weak switch.

Looks pretty good this time, I think you are getting the hang of it.

@cowpuc You do not do the battery drain test with an ohmmeter, that will likely let the magic blue smoke out of your meter if there is a draw. You use an Amp meter on the lowest setting to measure current draw. And yes either lead will work. But be sure to test each lead that is connected to the battery terminal.

That aint greasy, that's rust preventative................... AND and it is slippery so it slides through the air faster............yea thats it..............

Unfortunately I do know that it is California, all that emissions crap is always in my way and I am not sure how to get rid of it properly. I'll bet it don't even work anymore. I did not know it was Cali when I bought it, I found out the first time I went to sync the carbs, and have been pissing and moaning about it ever since. There are vacuum lines everywhere and canisters and crap and it is all in the way..............

And from the bike that most thought did not exist. My 88 standard. I'll have you know that I had to create a clean spot to get that pic............ I sure hope I did not clean off any of the dirt that was holding the bike together.............

You have to take off either the water pump or the thermostat housing to get that elbow off. It kind of depends on what other stuff you might want to do "While you are in there". If you take off the water pump, I would put in new seals while it is off. If you go for the thermostat housing, I would consider putting in a 4 brush starter or doing the ground mod on your existing starter, and/or heavier starting cables, and at a minimum, new seals in the thermostat housing and the drain valve. On mine I went the thermostat side since I was having the slow hot start issue and needed to get the starter out anyhow. The thermostat has to come out to get the starter out.

Start here to check out systems http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging Some other issues. A tender is not a charger and will not do a good job of charging a battery. Most tenders are not made for the needs of an AGM battery. Get a charger that is made for AGM to properly charge the battery.

Well since you need/want a buzz bomb, there is this one http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-matte-clear.html. It is still a 2 part matte clear but in a spray can. Once you mix it you have to use it all as it will harden in the can in about 48 hours. I have not used it but do know others that have used the gloss versions on model aircraft and been happy with the results.

OK, just so that @cowpuc can finally stop counting, here are the few pics that I did take and a short vid from the Saturday ride. The beginnings of the campfire Views around the camp area. Poor Moe and Curly sure looked lonely trying to find ol Puc and the famous Tippy, and their best friend Tweeks. A short Ride Vid. The audio is mostly the AC in my truck with the GPS and the stereo in the background. OK, So I never claimed to be any good at pics............... And even worse at video.............