Flyinfool

Or at least make the shield blue. I associate black as meaning no longer with us. But great idea Boss man.

I always but a line in my adds "Scamers don't bother, I know all your games" and I rarely ever get emails or phone calls from the scammers anymore. Your $500 is right in the wheel house of where they like to work.

I would mark the tab of each plate that is by the dots so that in the future if you ever have to remove them you can be sure to get them back in the same position. A small file mark or Dremel mark will do. With new disks the orientation does not matter, it is once everything gets broken in and settled, and you need to take it apart for some reason, that you will want it all back where it was. Those plastic shields do a lot of keeping the engine heat off of you. During testing I went for a ride once with those covers off and it brought song lyrics to mind, "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire.........".

Those pics worry me. It looks like there is a water line around the bore. Like it sat for some time with a significant amount of water in the cylinder. The water lines look to be at about the correct angles for the bike sitting on a level surface on the side stand. I would be worried that it was hydro locked and may have a bent rod. How much of that water made it into the crankcase and may have caused rust in there? I think you need to split the case just to be sure that the bottom end is good. And then while you are in there............................ Get it bored, bigger pistons to kick it up to 1500 or even 1700cc. I always get in trouble with the "while you are in there" part...........

There is really not much to wear out on a trailer. It is a lot cheaper for them to occasionally toss in a set of wheel bearings and new tires than to replace the whole trailer. Not much else to wear out. Not like a truck where the engine and drive line and lots of moving parts, have a finite life and then it gets real expensive to rebuild. A maintained trailer will last almost forever. My guess would be that most of their trailers get replaced from crash damage.

The Standard does have cruise but does not have the CLASS system to adjust air in the suspension, you have to adjust it manually. Mine is an 88 standard, it came with factory cruise but no radio, no CB no intercom and no CLASS, of course it is also missing all of the Royal badges. I have an aftermarket auto stereo and have no need for the rest of the stuff, AND if you read up there are a lot of people that spend a lot of time repairing those missing systems. I am not certain but I believe the standard may have only been available in 86 - 88 all the rest are Royals. As for value, it varies greatly by local. but 2100 for a 30 year old bike that needs TLC is a bit high. 72K is noting to worry about IF it was maintained.

Someone mention SNOW??????? Is it time for me to wake up???? I wonder what it would take to build something like that for a 1st gen? Hmmmmmm............

Well scuff it up real good with sandpaper first, then it wont look like chrome and the PAINT will stick better. I suppose that I'll have to go find a corner now too......

I still say fill the text with bondo and paint them black.

Nothing like God about it. But it is a GoldWing..... .... and the grips do fit on a MKII.

I have never heard of a good solvent for carbon. The best way on the bench is with abrasion.

NOoooooo.......... E85 is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. 15% fuel is 15% ethanol and 85% gasoline. Neither of these fuels should ever be run thru a carburetor that is not specifically designed for it. Both of these fuels require a richer jet size. Not re-jetting can cause a lean condition that can damage the engine. EVERY engine manufacturer says to never run more than 10% ethanol (many say to not even run the 10%) unless the engine was designed for the higher ethanol levels. But you are correct that higher octane burns slower.

Glad you are hear and able to write about it. It is obvious that we need to get more people eating deer.

Lots of it does contain ethanol. There are a few stations that sell ethanol free premium. There are many parts of the country that are required by law to have ethanol in ALL grades of gas for road use, including premium. Premium also does nothing to help our bikes run better and may even make things worse in certain cases.

There have been a number of crashes around here due to idiots playing pokyman while driving.

The Berrymans for a really dirty carb or Seafoam for a less dirty carb is a good place to start. If the jets are completely plugged then no chemical can get in there to open it up and removal and cleaning will be the only hope. You can also try the shotgunning method, it is in a YouTube vid for cleaning the V-Max carbs.

A lot more than once............... Happens for cages too..............

I know what Marcarl meant but that aint what came out. 1 to ground 2 to ground 3 to ground There should be no continuity for this test. 1 to 2 1 to 3 2 to 3 All should show about 3 ohms, The small value is hard to read for most ohmmeters so the vale is not as important as that all 3 are real close to the same. As Bob said if you are lucky and the gasket comes out with no damage then you can try to reuse it. Worst case is a small oil leak. BUT you MUST have a gasket in there, it is needed to get proper spacing for the starter gears, if you use RTV to make a gasket the starter gears will bind. This is the best reason to have a digital voltmeter permanently installed on the bike. It lets you monitor in real time exactly what the status of your charging system is. It will let you know if running the Hi beam and passing lights around town is draining the battery. It will also show you have a problem the moment it starts, before you get to the point of the bike not starting or even leaving you stranded on the side of the road with a completely dead bike.

First we have to be on the same page with terminology. The pick up coil is located down by the Stator and it is what tells the TCI the location of the crankshaft and the RPM of the engine. The TCI uses the information from the pick up coil to decide when each plug needs to fire. Since the coils are all wired hot the TCI controls this by switching the ground on and off. At the moment that the ground is taken away by the TCI is the moment that the spark plug fires. Each ignition coil has 2 windings of wire, the primary and secondary. The primary is the one that the TCI is controlling the power to. When the power is flowing through the primary it is an electromagnet and builds up a strong magnetic field. As soon as the power is turned off BY the TCI that magnetic field collapses, it is the magnetic field that is collapsing around the secondary winding that actually creates the spark voltage for the plug. With all of that said, since the coils are wired hot to both the primary and secondary windings you will me able to measure a voltage present at the spark plug with the ignition on and the engine not running. As to what Yamaha does with the old test equipment from the factory floor, Most places will put it into storage for a while until it gets in the way and then destroy it to protect any proprietary design info. In the past I have tried to buy tooling and info for a discontinued items and there was no way they were going to sell it.

As far as your ignition circuit is concerned having a bulb filament is like having a direct short across the coil. No electronics appreciates that. The reason that the bulb does not die instantly is because the spark circuit is not capable of producing enough amps to make the bulb act like a fuse. That is why they make spark testers so that the power is still jumping an air gap for proper resistance. As for what you are seeing with your test. I wonder if it is indicating bad coils. You have +12V to both the primary and secondary sides of the coil at all times the ignition is turned on. The TCI switches the ground on and off to the primary side control the spark. So with the key on you should see voltage at the high tension leads at the spark plug. there is a small resistor in the spark plug cap, it is very common for this to corrode and cause a poor connection. You can take the plug cap apart and clean the parts. DO NOT remove any material from the resistor element or you will kill it.

Looking forward to it.

I melted yesterday and then passed out on the couch. I hope to be there tonight.

I had that happen a few times also. Just making sure to shift very firmly each time and it has not happened now in years. When I shift I use a quick and very firm foot motion. Usually when it is a shift segment issue it will go up to a gear and not go any farther, depending on which pin fell out. Since you can continue thru to 5th says it is likely something else.

"Love it when a plan comes together"

First it is entirely possible to have a new bad part. IN the testing did you fully charge the battery and have it load tested? If not start there. BY Rec I am Assuming that you mean the Regulator/Rectifier (RR)? Since the voltage starts a bit low at idle and drops as RPM goes up. it could be something drawing a lot of excess current, especially since he said he keeps blowing RRs. the only RPM dependent thing that draws power is the ignition system. The faster the RPM the more current it pulls. Do you have a clamp on DC amp meter to easily check current draws on things while it is running? Check all of the fuses to be sure that the correct fuse in in every slot and that someone did not put in a bigger fuse to stop a fuse blowing issue. Don't forget to check any aftermarket lights horns or other stuff to be sure it is properly fused and a realistic fuse rating for the job.