Flyinfool

Pics all look good since you reposted them. Thanks. That 18mm is the dimension that I needed, I was close guessing at 20 mm, simple change to my drawing. Your cross hatch pattern looks pretty good. Now I just have to figure out how to actually make that fancy bend at the top with the tools that I have to work with. OR maybe this will be a good reason to go and get that 20 ton shop press.............. Now where is that 25% off HF coupon.................

Do 2nd gens have the same rear brake issues as 1st gens where if the brake fluid in the master is overfilled there is no room for expansion which causes the rear to tighten up as heat builds? The easy test for this is when you feel the drag, stop and crack the bleeder to relieve the pressure. If brakes return to normal then it is not a sticking piston but an over filled rear master.

Your attachments are coming up as bad links................

I think some are already there and will not see this post. I know that some have left home already.

A fuse that has its rated current flowing thru it will get warm, sometimes they get warm enough to melt either the fuse or the fuse holder. A poor contact between the fuse and fuse holder can also generate enough heat to melt plastic. Since you had a bare spot on the wire it is also possible that it was getting short momentary shorts to ground but not long enough or with a good enough connection to blow the fuse. I would put in a new fuse but keep a close eye on it for a while. Any more signs of heat and you need to spend some time figuring out what is going on.

And rather than rely on the auto save feature that works only most of the time. If I need to leave to look something up before I am ready to save, I just hit Ctrl + A (Select All) then Ctrl + C (Copy). When I come back to the post, if my work is gone I just type Ctrl + V (Paste) and it is back. If you want to use the Auto save feature, If you watch the lower right corner of the typing area you will see a small yellow Window Saying "Auto-Saved" pop up to let you know that the content has bee saved to the Auto Save. Depending on how you get back to the typing screen, sometimes the restore auto saved content button will not be present in the gray bottom bar of the window. IF it does not appear you may have to go back one more screen and reopen the thread to get that button to appear. NOT that I have EVER needed any of these features for myself......

Ok then, I'll make sure I have room to put the parts I pick up along the way, Good thing I have a big truck.

It could be done with diodes but the resistor is cheaper and easier. If you have just a diode in the circuit, disconnect it right away, you could end up blowing the CMU. As far as the tail lights, What @cowpuc said. Also check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at around 3,000 rpm. You should have around 14V even if the battery is drained a bit, if you don't, you may have the beginnings of a charging system problem.

Since it uses an always hot wire to maintain time when the key is off and a separate switched power wire, My guess is that it should turn off. But on the other hand I am betting that it does not draw enough power to really matter. Take your Multi meter and measure the amp draw with the bike turned off. It is then simple math to see how long it would take to drain the battery. I used to have a similar one that used a single AA battery that lasted a year of it being on 24/7. Your bike battery has a lot more power than a AA.

This thread has 621 views so someone other than you and I are looking at it.

I have a 3,000W geny and it has no problem starting my 13,500 rooftop AC even with the microwave running and all the lights on in the camper. Part of that tonnage in the Yamaha and Honda generators is the insulation and huge muffler to make them so quiet. Mine is a Baldor that is just a bit louder but still weighs about 135 lbs. It is a HD commercial grade Generator. A lot of the volume of the generator is a huge muffler. 600 lbs is a lot of weight behind a bike. The clutch will not care as long as it is working correctly. stopping the electric brakes will help. I am still thinking of adding electric brakes to my trailer. Tongue weight will your critical issue. The rule of thumb is 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue. 60Lbs is way to much tongue weight for the bike, especially if 2 up with the bikes luggage full to. The number I have always heard was no more that 30 lbs on the tongue to avoid handling issues. It is going to be a close balance of tongue weight, between bike handling and trailer sway. A longer tongue will help both issues. Due to your higher total weight, I would shoot for the distance from trailer axle to ball of 2 times the track width of the trailer. the normal is 1.5 times. Don't forget progress pics..................

If you get a few 2nd gens show up for the rides then there will be no issues with my truck keeping up................

Just watch out for the first time you go from a stop real hard and the front wheel come off the ground as you hit 2nd. That can be addictive also. :bikersmilie: :bikersmilie:

See now this is where I get into trouble all the time. I would take the heads down into my man cave and mill them a bit, a little more compression never hurts in a high performance engine. You just might have to run premium gas if you mill the heads. But sanding the scratches out would work to. Just not as much fun................ The dimension that I need is the diameter of the tube that the clamp goes over. So it is not the end that goes into the block, I need the diameter of the tube that is welded to the one that goes into the block. Did that make sense? Its early in the morning and I have not had my chocolate milk yet..............

There are a few places that make an oil pressure gauge for our engines just for this purpose. I still have not found where to actually buy this bracket. BUt since the drawings were provided I may try to make one or more. since you are already in there, you may get to be the guinea pig. I Will need a couple dimensions from Maxine for the couple of key dimensions that were omitted from the drawings. There was also info on how to modify your existing pipe if you are to cheap to buy one.

I have been wasting hours almost every night waiting and waiting and waiting for some one to pop into chat. So today I wasted some gas and time by mowing the parched brown lawn That really did not need it it has not grown at all in the last month. BUT I keep watching the grass not grow.

Well mine has not died in 30 years so it should be fine till winter. shows up and WE are up to our armpits in that lovely white stuff. That will be the perfect time to pull my pan to have a peak. I even found in one of the articles that I read that IF you have a bore scope you can pull the oil level sensor and get up in there to inspect the O-ring and not have to actually pull the pan unless your O-ring is popped. There is also a test for the popped O-ring. 1. Get the warmed up to normal temp. 2. Shut off engine. 3. Put bike on center stand, (do what you have to do to hold bike straight up if you have a 2nd gen). 4. Wait about 15 minutes for the oil to drain back to the bottom. 5. While watching the oil sight glass start the engine, the oil level should immediately drop from the full mark to the bottom of the sight glass or lower. 6. If the oil level does not drop immediately then odds are good that you have popped your O-ring. If the oil level drops slow, you may have pushed the O-ring out just a little. It is generally believed that cranking on the engine with high RPMs before it has warmed up for at least 15 minutes is the reason the O-ring pops in the first place. The thicker cold oil will generate more pressure at high RPM than what the pressure regulator can bleed off, so the engine finds some other way to relieve the pressure. This is probably not as common of an issue for Ventures due to the lower red line, but as it was just proven here, it is possible. I can see where it could be more likely for those that like to run heavier than recommended oil like a 20W50. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump it will move the oil, thicker oil will create higher pressures especially when cold. Back to your regularly scheduled programing. We may need to start a new thread for just this issue so as not to totally hijack this wonderful thread.

Rereading that it also makes me wonder if it is on my bike. I found the info on making the bracket to hold the pipe down. http://www.vmaxchat.co.uk/jonp/enginesaver/ I have a completely disassembled parts motor from an 85, I'll try to get to it tonight and see if I can figure out what this bracket might be and how to implement his fixes. I think this winter my oil pan is coming off to take a peak in there at my o-ring. It appears that the newer pipe he refers to 26h-y1319-10-00 (old pipe P/N 26h-y1319-01-00) is also used on the 96 and newer RSVs. It appears to be readily available and runs $75-$80. Or do the mods that he shows and fab up a bracket to hold it in place better. The original article that saw many years ago did go into the detail of making and installing the bracket. But I still have not found that one. It was a LONG time ago and it is possible that the site I remember no longer exists.

I found some info on that oil line. It is on a V-Max site but sure looks like what you have going on. http://www.awol.co.za/LeakingOringOilFilterSupply.htm

Good news on it looking like no bent rods. The water must have evaporated out of the bores while it was stored and not running, avoiding the possible hydro lock and being pumped thru the oil system. If you do pull the pistons you will have a good chance to examine the con rod bearings. I'll bet that bulged o ring did cause a reduction of oil flow and pressure, it does not look like it got low enough to do any damage. I thought I remember something about it being common for that o-ring to blow out and the cure was to rig up something to hold the pipe down tighter so that the oil pressure can not push it up enough to let the o-ring escape. The stock brackets are to flimsy to hold back the pressure. I can not find where I saw that and it was a long time ago that I saw that, and I am old with a bad case of CRS. What was it we were talking about?????? Oh yea it was food................

I can open and read the instructions. I can see the list of Ignitec files but I can not download them.

never mind................

Things are looking up for us, I may still have to be in the truck. Especially if Erika makes the trip with me. And I am certianaly able to my share of,

Puc, back in post 20 the frame was cut up and disposed of. Since you have the heads off run a free test. Mount a protractor to the crank for reference. Run each piston up to TDC and measure the distance from the top of the piston to the deck. Do the same at each 90° of rotation. They should all be the same. If one piston is lower than the rest you may have a bent rod on that cylinder that would warrant a tear down and inspection of the rods. If all that checks out good, then use Pucs idea to run each piston to BDC and lightly hone the walls the best you can and go on with the rebuild. Although I think I would use a set of stone over the dingle balls just because it will get to a half inch more of the bore. You have to run the drill really slow with the hone so that you can move it up and down fast enough to get close to a 30° hatch pattern. I don't know if there is room but since you have the engine out and on a stand, flip it over and pop off the oil pan and take a peak in there. you may be able to tie the cam chain away from the sprocket so that you can spin the engine with a big drill without having to worry about the cam chains getting caught up. Just thinking out loud here.

Just like this.