Flyinfool

This thread has 621 views so someone other than you and I are looking at it.

I have a 3,000W geny and it has no problem starting my 13,500 rooftop AC even with the microwave running and all the lights on in the camper. Part of that tonnage in the Yamaha and Honda generators is the insulation and huge muffler to make them so quiet. Mine is a Baldor that is just a bit louder but still weighs about 135 lbs. It is a HD commercial grade Generator. A lot of the volume of the generator is a huge muffler. 600 lbs is a lot of weight behind a bike. The clutch will not care as long as it is working correctly. stopping the electric brakes will help. I am still thinking of adding electric brakes to my trailer. Tongue weight will your critical issue. The rule of thumb is 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue. 60Lbs is way to much tongue weight for the bike, especially if 2 up with the bikes luggage full to. The number I have always heard was no more that 30 lbs on the tongue to avoid handling issues. It is going to be a close balance of tongue weight, between bike handling and trailer sway. A longer tongue will help both issues. Due to your higher total weight, I would shoot for the distance from trailer axle to ball of 2 times the track width of the trailer. the normal is 1.5 times. Don't forget progress pics..................

If you get a few 2nd gens show up for the rides then there will be no issues with my truck keeping up................

Just watch out for the first time you go from a stop real hard and the front wheel come off the ground as you hit 2nd. That can be addictive also. :bikersmilie: :bikersmilie:

See now this is where I get into trouble all the time. I would take the heads down into my man cave and mill them a bit, a little more compression never hurts in a high performance engine. You just might have to run premium gas if you mill the heads. But sanding the scratches out would work to. Just not as much fun................ The dimension that I need is the diameter of the tube that the clamp goes over. So it is not the end that goes into the block, I need the diameter of the tube that is welded to the one that goes into the block. Did that make sense? Its early in the morning and I have not had my chocolate milk yet..............

There are a few places that make an oil pressure gauge for our engines just for this purpose. I still have not found where to actually buy this bracket. BUt since the drawings were provided I may try to make one or more. since you are already in there, you may get to be the guinea pig. I Will need a couple dimensions from Maxine for the couple of key dimensions that were omitted from the drawings. There was also info on how to modify your existing pipe if you are to cheap to buy one.

I have been wasting hours almost every night waiting and waiting and waiting for some one to pop into chat. So today I wasted some gas and time by mowing the parched brown lawn That really did not need it it has not grown at all in the last month. BUT I keep watching the grass not grow.

Well mine has not died in 30 years so it should be fine till winter. shows up and WE are up to our armpits in that lovely white stuff. That will be the perfect time to pull my pan to have a peak. I even found in one of the articles that I read that IF you have a bore scope you can pull the oil level sensor and get up in there to inspect the O-ring and not have to actually pull the pan unless your O-ring is popped. There is also a test for the popped O-ring. 1. Get the warmed up to normal temp. 2. Shut off engine. 3. Put bike on center stand, (do what you have to do to hold bike straight up if you have a 2nd gen). 4. Wait about 15 minutes for the oil to drain back to the bottom. 5. While watching the oil sight glass start the engine, the oil level should immediately drop from the full mark to the bottom of the sight glass or lower. 6. If the oil level does not drop immediately then odds are good that you have popped your O-ring. If the oil level drops slow, you may have pushed the O-ring out just a little. It is generally believed that cranking on the engine with high RPMs before it has warmed up for at least 15 minutes is the reason the O-ring pops in the first place. The thicker cold oil will generate more pressure at high RPM than what the pressure regulator can bleed off, so the engine finds some other way to relieve the pressure. This is probably not as common of an issue for Ventures due to the lower red line, but as it was just proven here, it is possible. I can see where it could be more likely for those that like to run heavier than recommended oil like a 20W50. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump it will move the oil, thicker oil will create higher pressures especially when cold. Back to your regularly scheduled programing. We may need to start a new thread for just this issue so as not to totally hijack this wonderful thread.

Rereading that it also makes me wonder if it is on my bike. I found the info on making the bracket to hold the pipe down. http://www.vmaxchat.co.uk/jonp/enginesaver/ I have a completely disassembled parts motor from an 85, I'll try to get to it tonight and see if I can figure out what this bracket might be and how to implement his fixes. I think this winter my oil pan is coming off to take a peak in there at my o-ring. It appears that the newer pipe he refers to 26h-y1319-10-00 (old pipe P/N 26h-y1319-01-00) is also used on the 96 and newer RSVs. It appears to be readily available and runs $75-$80. Or do the mods that he shows and fab up a bracket to hold it in place better. The original article that saw many years ago did go into the detail of making and installing the bracket. But I still have not found that one. It was a LONG time ago and it is possible that the site I remember no longer exists.

I found some info on that oil line. It is on a V-Max site but sure looks like what you have going on. http://www.awol.co.za/LeakingOringOilFilterSupply.htm

Good news on it looking like no bent rods. The water must have evaporated out of the bores while it was stored and not running, avoiding the possible hydro lock and being pumped thru the oil system. If you do pull the pistons you will have a good chance to examine the con rod bearings. I'll bet that bulged o ring did cause a reduction of oil flow and pressure, it does not look like it got low enough to do any damage. I thought I remember something about it being common for that o-ring to blow out and the cure was to rig up something to hold the pipe down tighter so that the oil pressure can not push it up enough to let the o-ring escape. The stock brackets are to flimsy to hold back the pressure. I can not find where I saw that and it was a long time ago that I saw that, and I am old with a bad case of CRS. What was it we were talking about?????? Oh yea it was food................

I can open and read the instructions. I can see the list of Ignitec files but I can not download them.

never mind................

Things are looking up for us, I may still have to be in the truck. Especially if Erika makes the trip with me. And I am certianaly able to my share of,

Puc, back in post 20 the frame was cut up and disposed of. Since you have the heads off run a free test. Mount a protractor to the crank for reference. Run each piston up to TDC and measure the distance from the top of the piston to the deck. Do the same at each 90° of rotation. They should all be the same. If one piston is lower than the rest you may have a bent rod on that cylinder that would warrant a tear down and inspection of the rods. If all that checks out good, then use Pucs idea to run each piston to BDC and lightly hone the walls the best you can and go on with the rebuild. Although I think I would use a set of stone over the dingle balls just because it will get to a half inch more of the bore. You have to run the drill really slow with the hone so that you can move it up and down fast enough to get close to a 30° hatch pattern. I don't know if there is room but since you have the engine out and on a stand, flip it over and pop off the oil pan and take a peak in there. you may be able to tie the cam chain away from the sprocket so that you can spin the engine with a big drill without having to worry about the cam chains getting caught up. Just thinking out loud here.

Just like this.

Or at least make the shield blue. I associate black as meaning no longer with us. But great idea Boss man.

I always but a line in my adds "Scamers don't bother, I know all your games" and I rarely ever get emails or phone calls from the scammers anymore. Your $500 is right in the wheel house of where they like to work.

I would mark the tab of each plate that is by the dots so that in the future if you ever have to remove them you can be sure to get them back in the same position. A small file mark or Dremel mark will do. With new disks the orientation does not matter, it is once everything gets broken in and settled, and you need to take it apart for some reason, that you will want it all back where it was. Those plastic shields do a lot of keeping the engine heat off of you. During testing I went for a ride once with those covers off and it brought song lyrics to mind, "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire.........".

Those pics worry me. It looks like there is a water line around the bore. Like it sat for some time with a significant amount of water in the cylinder. The water lines look to be at about the correct angles for the bike sitting on a level surface on the side stand. I would be worried that it was hydro locked and may have a bent rod. How much of that water made it into the crankcase and may have caused rust in there? I think you need to split the case just to be sure that the bottom end is good. And then while you are in there............................ Get it bored, bigger pistons to kick it up to 1500 or even 1700cc. I always get in trouble with the "while you are in there" part...........

There is really not much to wear out on a trailer. It is a lot cheaper for them to occasionally toss in a set of wheel bearings and new tires than to replace the whole trailer. Not much else to wear out. Not like a truck where the engine and drive line and lots of moving parts, have a finite life and then it gets real expensive to rebuild. A maintained trailer will last almost forever. My guess would be that most of their trailers get replaced from crash damage.

The Standard does have cruise but does not have the CLASS system to adjust air in the suspension, you have to adjust it manually. Mine is an 88 standard, it came with factory cruise but no radio, no CB no intercom and no CLASS, of course it is also missing all of the Royal badges. I have an aftermarket auto stereo and have no need for the rest of the stuff, AND if you read up there are a lot of people that spend a lot of time repairing those missing systems. I am not certain but I believe the standard may have only been available in 86 - 88 all the rest are Royals. As for value, it varies greatly by local. but 2100 for a 30 year old bike that needs TLC is a bit high. 72K is noting to worry about IF it was maintained.

Someone mention SNOW??????? Is it time for me to wake up???? I wonder what it would take to build something like that for a 1st gen? Hmmmmmm............

Well scuff it up real good with sandpaper first, then it wont look like chrome and the PAINT will stick better. I suppose that I'll have to go find a corner now too......

I still say fill the text with bondo and paint them black.