Flyinfool

Sure I could, but I don't know if you can afford me. I can eat an awful lot of pizza and Ice Cream..............

Dig? Roots?. That is what chain and trailer hitches are made for. Yes digging them out will be a good waste of time, but it will get you a lot of exercise.

The problem with waiting is that by the time it is running bad, you may already have burnt valves. It will not start to run bad until the clearance gets to ZERO. Once it hits ZERO the valve will no longer seal and the leakage will burn up the valve. It is the leaking valve that makes the engine run bad. Some, maybe even many, have needed no adjustment till after 60K miles, and then only a slight adjustment, this is true. Others Like me decided to wait a while. I did mine at 50K for the first time and had 3 valves they were down to less than .001, As in my .001 feeler would not go in, yet the shim could still be rotated in the bucket so it was still more than the dreaded ZERO, but not by much. I was probably not many miles away from doing severe engine damage. ALL of mine needed adjustment, not a single valve was in spec some worse than others. I set all of mine to exactly the high limit to give the longest possible time till they need to be done again. So it comes down to "Do you feel lucky" Even if you do t,he check and they are all good at least you have the peace of mind in knowing that they are all good, and sure that you do not have a ticking time bomb. Do you stop checking tire pressure regularly because sometimes it is ok and does not need to be adjusted? As for a stealer charging for a valve check and not doing it. In most cases you can tell if there are new valve cover gaskets installed, I would find it hard to believe that it would be worthwhile for a dealer to get that far in and not do the easy part of the job. I can believe a dealer would blow the whole job off but still charge for it.

First thought what length spacers did you install with the progressives? Did you install the OEM aluminum spacer with the O-rings that goes right under the threaded nut? Did you change the weight or amount of your fork oil?

I did it to myself again. Why do I do these things. I had 20,000 lbs of driveway gravel delivered today. Of course that meant that I had to spread it all around, slope it for run off, smooth it out and then compact it. I now hurt in places that I did not even know I had........... :backinmyday: :backinmyday:

Or just toss them out the window of the airplane as you are going over my house...............

Sounds like a blast, well except for the hot part.

Checking and adjusting the valves is not hard to do, but it does take a lot of time. That is why the stealer is so expensive for the job. We have talked many mechanically challenged people through the job. As for the carbs. I have never been into mine so I can give no credible advice there.

Check the brake rotors close, at 9k there will next to zero wear, at 109K there will be a lot more wear. 109K will also show wear on hand grips, seat, foot pegs, and rubber shifter pad. Many do not understand how the linked brakes work, and if you get air in the system they can be tricky to bleed resulting in a soft peddle. All of the brakes hold up surprisingly well for a bike this heavy. The factory brakes are a bit anemic to begin with, changing out to all EBC HH pads helps a lot. Good luck

I have a 2000W inverter that I use to run a 2.5 hp circular saw, Sawzall and an electric chain saw when I am back in the woods. All of these are fairly high current draws. I use a single 15 year old deep cycle battery left over from my RV and I have yet to run the battery dead. But be warned, that if you are running something that pulls 10 amps at 120V, it will be pulling 110 amps from the battery. Just look at the power requirement of what you will be using, multiply by 11 to get the draw from the battery and compare that to the Amp hour rating of your battery. that will give you a good idea of how long it will last. 2000W is 16.7 Amps at 120VAC, that would be a battery draw of 183 amps at 12Vdc. Make sure your battery cables are big enough for that. You do not want to run the 2kW inverter off of your car battery, the car battery is not made for that and will not last long. You do want to get a good Deep Cycle battery like what is used in a RV for best performance. The other thing to consider is starting surge, many inverters can not handle a lot of starting surge. so they will have difficulty with big motors like AC or compressors. Saws and such are generally started with no load so the starting surge in less. I used my 2KW inverter to build 2 towers with 6' x 6' x 7' enclosures on top for deer hunting back in the woods. Those solar panels that you have are probably around 15W output so it would take 133 hours (11 days at 12 hours cloud free sunlight per day) of strong direct sunlight to recharge 1 hour of draw at 2000 watts. Since my truck does have a spot for a second battery under the hood, I was thinking of mounting my Deep cycle under the hood so that it is always being charged by the truck whenever the truck is running that way it will always be handy, charged and ready to go.

All good things must come to an end. Now I will have noting to do but make other plans........................................... @VanRiver And who you calling one fart smeller??????

Wisconsin does not have diamond lanes on any of the roadways, but we do have diamond lanes on most metered ramps for getting on the interstate. Those diamond lanes do allow motorcycles.

How far did you turn the adjusting knob, It has a pretty fine thread and takes a lot of turns to make a difference. It is also possible to miss the adjuster when taking the headlight out and putting it back in. Don't ask how I know about this one...........

Yup 17 is to high, Sorry I can't help with parts recomendations for a 2nd gen.

Or Control and Zero

This to many lights thing does not compute, I can not conceive of this malady. Yes removable parts should have connectors

If a cracked sidewall rips and blows out, the tube will just bulge out of the hole and pop. Either way when the sidewall lets go you will be buying a new tire. I would get the new tire and they will outlive you and can be someone else problem some day when you are gone. So it kind of depends on just how bad are the cracks, light surface cracking, don't worry about it, deep cracks where you can see cord at the bottom of the crack, the tube will not help or delay the inevitable.

When you say a NO START CONDITION, is it cranking but will not fire, or does it do nothing at all?

And if you want to get fancy. There are others too. Ctrl-Y = Redo last Undo Ctrl-B = Bold Ctrl-F = Find Ctrl-U = Underline Ctrl-I = Italics And in most other programs Ctrl-N = Create a new file Ctrl-O = Open an existing file Ctrl-P = Print

It sounds like you are running on 3 cylinders. From cold, start the engine and see if one exhaust pipe does not heat up as fast as the others. The cold one is the cylinder with the issue.

If you delete the text by accident then the control Z will usually bring it back. If the text is gone cuz you left the page without hitting the Post button then Control Z will not help but these other methods can.

I found it. I found the guy you can buy this bracket from. http://www.v-max-f-maerz.de/vmaxkatalog/990/993e_en.html It comes with an oil pan gasket. I am not sure if it includes a new O-ring. It would be coming from Germany. He is very proud of his work. I have no idea why he is making it out of stainle$$ Steel, it is in the oil pan it better not rust.

Cool. I been watching this close. COPs is the route that I will go IF/when one of my coils die.

Young Man????? Who is this young man you are referring to? Must be my grandson or his son that you are thinking of. I still got enough hair to cover a few heads. It may be gray but it is still all there.

OOpie!