Flyinfool

I have a 2000W inverter that I use to run a 2.5 hp circular saw, Sawzall and an electric chain saw when I am back in the woods. All of these are fairly high current draws. I use a single 15 year old deep cycle battery left over from my RV and I have yet to run the battery dead. But be warned, that if you are running something that pulls 10 amps at 120V, it will be pulling 110 amps from the battery. Just look at the power requirement of what you will be using, multiply by 11 to get the draw from the battery and compare that to the Amp hour rating of your battery. that will give you a good idea of how long it will last. 2000W is 16.7 Amps at 120VAC, that would be a battery draw of 183 amps at 12Vdc. Make sure your battery cables are big enough for that. You do not want to run the 2kW inverter off of your car battery, the car battery is not made for that and will not last long. You do want to get a good Deep Cycle battery like what is used in a RV for best performance. The other thing to consider is starting surge, many inverters can not handle a lot of starting surge. so they will have difficulty with big motors like AC or compressors. Saws and such are generally started with no load so the starting surge in less. I used my 2KW inverter to build 2 towers with 6' x 6' x 7' enclosures on top for deer hunting back in the woods. Those solar panels that you have are probably around 15W output so it would take 133 hours (11 days at 12 hours cloud free sunlight per day) of strong direct sunlight to recharge 1 hour of draw at 2000 watts. Since my truck does have a spot for a second battery under the hood, I was thinking of mounting my Deep cycle under the hood so that it is always being charged by the truck whenever the truck is running that way it will always be handy, charged and ready to go.

All good things must come to an end. Now I will have noting to do but make other plans........................................... @VanRiver And who you calling one fart smeller??????

Wisconsin does not have diamond lanes on any of the roadways, but we do have diamond lanes on most metered ramps for getting on the interstate. Those diamond lanes do allow motorcycles.

How far did you turn the adjusting knob, It has a pretty fine thread and takes a lot of turns to make a difference. It is also possible to miss the adjuster when taking the headlight out and putting it back in. Don't ask how I know about this one...........

Yup 17 is to high, Sorry I can't help with parts recomendations for a 2nd gen.

Or Control and Zero

This to many lights thing does not compute, I can not conceive of this malady. Yes removable parts should have connectors

If a cracked sidewall rips and blows out, the tube will just bulge out of the hole and pop. Either way when the sidewall lets go you will be buying a new tire. I would get the new tire and they will outlive you and can be someone else problem some day when you are gone. So it kind of depends on just how bad are the cracks, light surface cracking, don't worry about it, deep cracks where you can see cord at the bottom of the crack, the tube will not help or delay the inevitable.

When you say a NO START CONDITION, is it cranking but will not fire, or does it do nothing at all?

And if you want to get fancy. There are others too. Ctrl-Y = Redo last Undo Ctrl-B = Bold Ctrl-F = Find Ctrl-U = Underline Ctrl-I = Italics And in most other programs Ctrl-N = Create a new file Ctrl-O = Open an existing file Ctrl-P = Print

It sounds like you are running on 3 cylinders. From cold, start the engine and see if one exhaust pipe does not heat up as fast as the others. The cold one is the cylinder with the issue.

If you delete the text by accident then the control Z will usually bring it back. If the text is gone cuz you left the page without hitting the Post button then Control Z will not help but these other methods can.

I found it. I found the guy you can buy this bracket from. http://www.v-max-f-maerz.de/vmaxkatalog/990/993e_en.html It comes with an oil pan gasket. I am not sure if it includes a new O-ring. It would be coming from Germany. He is very proud of his work. I have no idea why he is making it out of stainle$$ Steel, it is in the oil pan it better not rust.

Cool. I been watching this close. COPs is the route that I will go IF/when one of my coils die.

Young Man????? Who is this young man you are referring to? Must be my grandson or his son that you are thinking of. I still got enough hair to cover a few heads. It may be gray but it is still all there.

OOpie!

Pics all look good since you reposted them. Thanks. That 18mm is the dimension that I needed, I was close guessing at 20 mm, simple change to my drawing. Your cross hatch pattern looks pretty good. Now I just have to figure out how to actually make that fancy bend at the top with the tools that I have to work with. OR maybe this will be a good reason to go and get that 20 ton shop press.............. Now where is that 25% off HF coupon.................

Do 2nd gens have the same rear brake issues as 1st gens where if the brake fluid in the master is overfilled there is no room for expansion which causes the rear to tighten up as heat builds? The easy test for this is when you feel the drag, stop and crack the bleeder to relieve the pressure. If brakes return to normal then it is not a sticking piston but an over filled rear master.

Your attachments are coming up as bad links................

I think some are already there and will not see this post. I know that some have left home already.

A fuse that has its rated current flowing thru it will get warm, sometimes they get warm enough to melt either the fuse or the fuse holder. A poor contact between the fuse and fuse holder can also generate enough heat to melt plastic. Since you had a bare spot on the wire it is also possible that it was getting short momentary shorts to ground but not long enough or with a good enough connection to blow the fuse. I would put in a new fuse but keep a close eye on it for a while. Any more signs of heat and you need to spend some time figuring out what is going on.

And rather than rely on the auto save feature that works only most of the time. If I need to leave to look something up before I am ready to save, I just hit Ctrl + A (Select All) then Ctrl + C (Copy). When I come back to the post, if my work is gone I just type Ctrl + V (Paste) and it is back. If you want to use the Auto save feature, If you watch the lower right corner of the typing area you will see a small yellow Window Saying "Auto-Saved" pop up to let you know that the content has bee saved to the Auto Save. Depending on how you get back to the typing screen, sometimes the restore auto saved content button will not be present in the gray bottom bar of the window. IF it does not appear you may have to go back one more screen and reopen the thread to get that button to appear. NOT that I have EVER needed any of these features for myself......

Ok then, I'll make sure I have room to put the parts I pick up along the way, Good thing I have a big truck.

It could be done with diodes but the resistor is cheaper and easier. If you have just a diode in the circuit, disconnect it right away, you could end up blowing the CMU. As far as the tail lights, What @cowpuc said. Also check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at around 3,000 rpm. You should have around 14V even if the battery is drained a bit, if you don't, you may have the beginnings of a charging system problem.

Since it uses an always hot wire to maintain time when the key is off and a separate switched power wire, My guess is that it should turn off. But on the other hand I am betting that it does not draw enough power to really matter. Take your Multi meter and measure the amp draw with the bike turned off. It is then simple math to see how long it would take to drain the battery. I used to have a similar one that used a single AA battery that lasted a year of it being on 24/7. Your bike battery has a lot more power than a AA.