Flyinfool

:duck: :duck: :duck: :duck: Stop it, your both wrong...... :rasberry: :rasberry: It would be wonderful if everyone could live in paradise but that is not the real world for most people, we each do what we feel is right for each of us. Anyplace I have to list a home address I put down the address of the local police department, I also have the local PD as my home address in my cell phone and GPS. The local PD also has a specific recommended area of the parking lot for transacting Craig's list or similar online purchases. It is near the front door where LEOs are constantly walking in and out and has cameras. In the many years that I have been buying and selling stuff I have only ever had one person refuse to meet at the PD. He wanted to meet at night in a parking lot of a closed store. Can you say BIG RED FLAG. I never did meet him.

The fan should not come on while riding. There should be plenty of airflow to keep things cool. When I get home from a ride and let the bike idle while I take off my gear and open the doors the fan will usually kick on for a few seconds and then go back off. The fan cools things down pretty quick so it does not have to run often or for very long when it does run, and it is not very loud when running, my radio can easily drown out the fan.

You asked for it.

In order to tell if the diodes are going you need to see the other side of the board. There are two ways I know of to get to the other side of the board. 1. Desolder all of the connections to the connectors along the left edge (as viewed in your pic) of the board to remove the board from the connectors. I do not recommend this unless you are really good at working with boards. 2. Make a cut thru the cover just past the connectors so they stay with the board and then just seal the cut line with Black RTV when you put it back together. BE very careful to not cut to deep and cut thru components on the board.

Or the clerk to short change themselves. I went to the farmers market for some veggies bought some corn on the cob for $3.50. Handed the clerk a $20. There was only $20s fresh from the ATM in my wallet. When I got home I had 2 quarters in my pocket and the non $20s in my wallet were 2 singles, and 4 $5s. That corn was my only purchase.

It is not just up there that bicyclists have no regard for the rules of the road. Around here they DEMAND that they be allowed a full traffic lane when you are coming up on them, but then will break every law that is not convenient. The law here says that they must remain within 3 feet of the curb or edge of the roadway unless passing an obstruction and a group must ride single file and must not impede traffic. That is sure a lot different that always having the right of way. Had the discussion with an avid bicyclist here at work, he pics and chooses the laws that he likes. The thought never even occurred to him that running a stop in front of my truck could make him into a road pizza. He just believed that bicycles are the same as pedestrians and have the right of way and if you hit him he will sue. It finally registered after being repeated a bunch of times that it is hard to sue and/or enjoy the money of a successful lawsuit from 6 feet under or a wheel chair. Seeee, now ya went and got me started.................

I do not have a personal rule for lane position other than it being an otherwise unoccupied position. I read about a study once that if you are constantly moving around in your lane, other drivers tend to give you more room and keep a closer eye on you because they can not predict you. If they are paying extra attention to me and keeping there distance, these are both good things in my book. As for oncoming traffic, I am also all over my lane to be able to see and be seen the best at any given moment, the best place to be is constantly changing. I also run with my Hi bean on in the daytime and am in the process of adding more lights. If you watch the Ride Like A Pro DVD there is a section in there on being seen. They show video of the same bike against the same background using various techniques. By far the most visible to oncoming cars, or cars at a stop sign waiting to pull out, is weaving back and forth in your lane. I paid road taxes just like ever other vehicle on the road and so I figure I own a full lane and I am gonna use MY full lane. Of course NONE of this helps against someone that is not looking at anything but their phone.

When I needed a valve cover gasket on short notice last spring it was $25 at the local stealer.

And the original posting from the CARMO website is $10 cheaper. It sure looks like they are both the same item. although in the add on the Regulator Rectifier site it says that you will actually receive the smaller Orange one with the connectors on pigtails and not like the OEM where the connectors are part of the module. That would certainly be worth a call to find out. I would pay $10 more for that tiny one that will fit in more places. Fortunately I am not in the market for a TCI right now. Also, I do not have $330 of curiosity to try one out right now.

For the $2 that you save over picking them up at the stealer, compared to the amount of work needed to get to them if they leak. I would spend the extra $2 and buy local.

I said Don't ask..........

It might look like a bad photochop cuz it is. The bike is real enough, that pic that The Touch posted is the same pic as was used in the add with the background of the original photochopped out and the school background photochopped in. Look at the reflection in the helmet, both pics have the reflection of the guy that is bent over by the helmets.

And there is a Chevy Venture mini van to help confuse searches.

Can you read the markings on your load equalizers? or post a pic of them. they might just be the wrong value.

Sounds like fun.

The carb sync just sets the throttle plates to be all open the same, it does not effect fuel air mix or the slides directly.

Sure I could, but I don't know if you can afford me. I can eat an awful lot of pizza and Ice Cream..............

Dig? Roots?. That is what chain and trailer hitches are made for. Yes digging them out will be a good waste of time, but it will get you a lot of exercise.

The problem with waiting is that by the time it is running bad, you may already have burnt valves. It will not start to run bad until the clearance gets to ZERO. Once it hits ZERO the valve will no longer seal and the leakage will burn up the valve. It is the leaking valve that makes the engine run bad. Some, maybe even many, have needed no adjustment till after 60K miles, and then only a slight adjustment, this is true. Others Like me decided to wait a while. I did mine at 50K for the first time and had 3 valves they were down to less than .001, As in my .001 feeler would not go in, yet the shim could still be rotated in the bucket so it was still more than the dreaded ZERO, but not by much. I was probably not many miles away from doing severe engine damage. ALL of mine needed adjustment, not a single valve was in spec some worse than others. I set all of mine to exactly the high limit to give the longest possible time till they need to be done again. So it comes down to "Do you feel lucky" Even if you do t,he check and they are all good at least you have the peace of mind in knowing that they are all good, and sure that you do not have a ticking time bomb. Do you stop checking tire pressure regularly because sometimes it is ok and does not need to be adjusted? As for a stealer charging for a valve check and not doing it. In most cases you can tell if there are new valve cover gaskets installed, I would find it hard to believe that it would be worthwhile for a dealer to get that far in and not do the easy part of the job. I can believe a dealer would blow the whole job off but still charge for it.

First thought what length spacers did you install with the progressives? Did you install the OEM aluminum spacer with the O-rings that goes right under the threaded nut? Did you change the weight or amount of your fork oil?

I did it to myself again. Why do I do these things. I had 20,000 lbs of driveway gravel delivered today. Of course that meant that I had to spread it all around, slope it for run off, smooth it out and then compact it. I now hurt in places that I did not even know I had........... :backinmyday: :backinmyday:

Or just toss them out the window of the airplane as you are going over my house...............

Sounds like a blast, well except for the hot part.

Checking and adjusting the valves is not hard to do, but it does take a lot of time. That is why the stealer is so expensive for the job. We have talked many mechanically challenged people through the job. As for the carbs. I have never been into mine so I can give no credible advice there.

Check the brake rotors close, at 9k there will next to zero wear, at 109K there will be a lot more wear. 109K will also show wear on hand grips, seat, foot pegs, and rubber shifter pad. Many do not understand how the linked brakes work, and if you get air in the system they can be tricky to bleed resulting in a soft peddle. All of the brakes hold up surprisingly well for a bike this heavy. The factory brakes are a bit anemic to begin with, changing out to all EBC HH pads helps a lot. Good luck