Flyinfool

I would not use harsh chemicals on the armature, You do not want to damage the insulation on windings. The brush dust is not hard to get off, simple alcohol or electronics cleaner will clean it fine. It has been a while since I was into a starter, I dont remember the order it comes apart, but you do want to take out the brush plate for cleaning.

I agree that there is a LOT more to setting red line than just adding a balance shaft. As puc mentioned I doubt that the internal features needed to add the balance shaft are even in your motor, the fact that there is no balance shaft now means that the balance weights on the crank are also different so even if you could add the shaft it would still be wrong and maybe even worse. The biggest thing that makes the Vmax a 10,500 red line vs a ventures 7,500 red line is the cams, valves, and especially the valve springs used. The smaller springs in the MK1 and MK2 will allow the valves to float at around 8,000 rpm hence the 7500 red line. ps. Puc is talking silly again but then I am not a professional thread hijacker like SOME people are.

It depends on what year the XVZ1300 starter is as to whether you want it. If you are going to buy a starter make sure it is the 4 brush starter. The one you are looking at will fit but a 4 brush is a munch better starter and will cost about the same money. Most sellers will have no clue if they have a 2 or 4 brush and if they find out they may also raise their price. everything after a certain year is a 4 brush, I do not remember exactly what year the 4 brush started. But then I am cheap, I would take apart what I have and clean it out and do the ground mod and try that before I spend anything. When I did my starter I was doing a lot of other work at the same time. You do not have to remove the radiator but I think you will have to loosen the mounts so you can push it over a bit, you do not have to drain it. I believe you need to remove one of the exhaust pipes but they come off pretty easy, 2 bolts to the head and 1 clamp at the bottom. While you are cleaning the starter, make sure to clean the mounting surfaces on the starter and the block real good as they are your ground path.

Our dog likes to play dead a lot.

I am not sure those are butt connectors, I think that is 2 big blue power resistors.

It may not be RPM runaway. With full choke idle is around 3500 +/- RPM. It does sound like runaway as the RPM are slowly climbing. When cold starting I used about half choke which gave an idle of around 2500, I would let it idle there to warm up whil I put on all of my gear, I would then adjust the choke to give a 1500-1800 idle to start my ride. After 1/4 to 1/2 mile I cold open the choke fully. Now in your case with plugged idle jets, do what you need to do with the choke to keep it running, the seafoam can do nothing if it is not flowing thru the carbs, You will want the choke set as far open as you can and still keep it running so that it is using the idle circuit as much as possible to try to get it cleaned out. Run it till fully heated up and let sit over night, keep repeating this until it starts to clean its self out. If after a week it is not getting better then it probably means that one or more jets are completely plugged and the seafoam is not able to get in there, in which case the only thing that will clean it out is to remove and manually clean them out.

SNOW!!!! I like SNOW. SNOW makes everything look so clean and pretty. Driving on nice fresh SNOW is so much fun. So now your problem is????

Another thing to check out. IF you still have the original glass fuses, it is very common for the fuse clips to go bad. When you check for power at the fuse panel, Put your voltmeter neg lead to batt neg and then check both sides of each fuse by touching the red wire to the wire, not to the fuse clip or the end of the fuse. This will ensure that you do not have a bad fuse clip. Many People replace the glass fuse block with a modern fuse block.

Ah Puc, the Yamaha solenoid is a bit different. Internally the battery side of the solenoid is connected to the small terminal for the starter switch. The starter switch provides the ground to energize the solenoid. SO putting +12 to the small terminal will do nothing. To test the solenoid you must connect +12V to the battery side of the solenoid, and then ground the small terminal for the start switch. I went around in circles a few times figuring that one out. What was meant buy using the red booster, Is to use just one side of your jumper cables to connect from the + battery terminal direct to the stud on the starter. If the starter is good the engine will crank. As mentioned, this is bypassing ALL of the built in safeties. So be very sure the bike is actually in neutral, and as an extra safety put it up on the center stand. You reall do not want to be laying on the ground half under and have it jump off the side stand, that will hurt a lot waiting for someone to lift 850 lbs of bike off of you. It really sounds like you have multiple issues going on at the same time, It may take us a while while working blind and online to isolate them and fix them.

That "Armature Dust" that @cowpuc referred to is actually the material that has worn off of the carbon brushes from normal wear. So of course that material is electrically conductive. As the dust buildup gets thicker it is able to allow some of the starting power to bypass the windings effectively shorting them out. Any time you pull the starter you should open it up and do a very through job of cleaning all of the dust out of there. As Puc mentioned pay particular attention to the grooves between the bars of the commutator and both ends of the commutator and all the other electrical connections. Be very careful around the windings, you do not want to scratch the varnish insulation that is on the wires, that varnish is easily scratched with any metal tool and can still be scratched with a plastic tool. If you do scratch it (you will see bright shiny copper) just dab on some furniture type varnish with a small brush to regain the protection Keeping all of the electrical connections clean will help a lot and may allow you to need no further modifications. Back when I did some testing I found out hat the stock starter cables were losing about 0.75V just due to their small diameter and the stock internal grounding of the brush plate inside of the starter was loosing about 0.5V. That is 1.25 volts not even reaching the starter motor. The cost of the internal ground mod in the starter is about $0.50 max. It is about 3 inches of #10AWG wire and a ring terminal and a drop of solder. The cost to upgrade the POS and NEG starter wires is going to around $30 to $50 depending on your sources. Doing these simple mods and you will not have to replace the battery every year like Puc does, because there will be more of the batteries power making it to the starter. I did just these mods (not the 4 brush starter) and typically get 5-6 years out of a battery with no hot start issues the whole time. In the 30 years and 75,000 miles on my bike The starter was only removed once to do the grond mod and a good cleaning.

I would still keep hunting for the reason that you have low voltage. That alone is the bike trying to warn you of bigger problems to come down the road, we need to listen when the bike is talking to us.

Yes they are easy to take apart to clean and inspect. It is more work getting it out of the bike... Not hard just more work. Doing the "ground Mod" in the starter will help a lot. You can replace the carbon brushes in it if needed. As mentioned in all the posts above, A good battery, heavier cables and clean connections also go a long way to help the issue. Last thing to do is to get a 4 brush starter to replace the 2 brush starter, along with a good battery clean connections and heavier cables will definitely do it. I never had to spend the money to get the 4 brush starter as the other fixes did the job. Don't forget to clean all of the connections on the negative side as well as the positive side. Clean them even if they look clean. There can be bad corrosion that the eye can not see.

The triple tree is a highly stressed and critical part. Drilling and tapping could create a stress riser that could cause failure which would be catastrophic. I would rather see you rig up a clamp to attach to the triple tree, It will be far safer. Pics always help.

When Mama hosts a party it is NOT to be missed.

NO. Each POS wire that I connected is with its own terminal on the solenoid stud all held on with the nut. You may never need to take this apart for the rest of the life of the bike so having more than one wire there is no big deal. The 40A MAXI fuse is the circuit protection, I actually had 2 of the inline MAXI fuses, one for switched power and one for the unswitched power. But they are tucked away out of sight down the side of the fairing. Just be sure to have enough slack in the wires in case you ever manage to blow a MAXI and have to replace it. The unswitched goes direct to its fuse block, the switched goes to a 40A relay and then to its fuse block. The relay has the benefit of taking all of the running loads off of the contacts in the ignition switch.

A few thoughts. I have seen to many 40A AT0 fuses melt but not blow. The issue is that there is not enough contact area between the fuse holder and the fuse blade, This lack of contact area creates heat. All of the smaller types are even worse as the contacts are even smaller. In a pinch I will go up to a 30A AT0, but don't like it. I used a 40A inline MAXI Fuse for my main. I connected that to the solenoid end of the POS battery cable along with anything else that needed connecting direct to battery. This way there is just one terminal at the battery. This way you are much better off as there are no 30A circuits on the bike so the 30A panel you picked out will be fine. I did 2 fuse blocks, one is switched power and the other one is always hot battery power, then I have a big terminal block for ground wires, unless I have NO choice, I do not use frame grounds. Copper is a MUCH better conductor of electricity than steel.

The other thing that @skydoc_17 mentioned was the thickness of the steel plates and friction discs. A new friction disc measures 3.0mm (.1181 inch) thick and the wear limit is 2.8mm (.1102 inch) thick. I do not remember the thickness for the steels offhand, but unless you really abused the clutch they should be fine. I'm old and have CRS.

Chat has difficulty with phones.The area to view what is being said and the area for typing are so small that they are unusable. I never did figure out a way to make chat work on a phone. You need at least a tablet, I use my laptop.

I believe the switch body is made of Bakelite which can handle normal soldering if you do not dilly dally for to long. M! did skip over one vital point. As you remove the iron and start blowing to help it cool you absolutely must not let the wire move until all of the solder has solidified. your fingers will be screaming in pain and you will have utter some of your favorite words that are daddy only words, BUT DON"T let the wire move till cooled. After you do enough soldering your finger tips become immune to the heat. It takes time and practice but you will eventually learn to hold all of that stuff in 2 hands and make it all play together. For this job I would use around a 40W pencil type iron. To big and you melt stuff, and believe it or not, to small and you melt stuff. 60-40 is the easiest solder to work with but any solder made for ELECTRICAL will work. Plumbers solder has acid which will wick up inside of the wire insulation and corrod the wires off and you will get to go thru this all again. Also make sure that the flux you use is made for electrical for the same reasons. If it were me, that solder job on the blue wire don't look so good either.

Rotors only get hot if you are in stop and go traffic and riding aggressively. My daily commute of 22 miles one way in city traffic would have all 3 rotors up to about 15-20°F above ambient temps. And that is with 300 lbs on the bike (me plus all the junk I store in the bags). It is also a common issue to over fill the rear master and when the fluid heats up and expands with no where to expand to, it will grab the rear brake. This can be relived if you have a wrench to fit the bleeder with you and if the rear is dragging just crack and re-close the rear bleeder to relieve the pressure. This is one of those runaway things, the hotter it gets the more the fluid expands and the more the fluid expands the harder it drags and the hotter............ This can progress to the point that it locks the rear wheel so that you can not move the bike at all. Crack the bleeder and all is good again. This itself will not cause pulsing, but the heat from dragging can warp the rotor and cause pulsing.

That 8V is a problem on the bike somewhere, You need to keep chasing that till you find it whether you do the LEDs or not. That 8V will only get worse over time and you will end up losing the turn signals at the worst possible time. The wiring diagram is available in the VR library. At least we have identified the problem, now we just have to find the cause and fix it.

You could redo the infinity to get the better gas milage and then turn down her max speed so that you can catch her.........

I just looked at the 2nd gen schematics, there are a lot of connectors that that flasher power goes thru, Any one of them could be the problem.

But Kirk, as you know, Spock is always right.........

Yes it is very possible that the low voltage is causing all of your issues. Check the voltage at the bulb of the factory signal It should read the same as you got at the breakout connector. Then all you can do is start following the wires forward to find where your voltage drop is happening. You have a bad connection or contact somewhere on the bike.