Flyinfool

That is what the stock plug looks like, at least my 88 has that same plug. I never looked it up in the manual but my only guess is that the screwdriver is for tightening so you don't strip the threads, and the hex is for getting it out when it is over tightened. But that is a purely a WAG.

Maybe we need to bury this in ❄ ❅ ❆ ☃ This site has lots of fun stuff http://www.alt-codes.net/

Condor Are you sure you actually typed ALT+155 and not ALT+15? There are many different alt codes to bring up the same symbols. most of the symbols repeat often, that is how they do keyboards for different languages, they just shift the codes. The same characters appear in different languages along with the special characters of that language.

To get the ☼ symbol I type ALT+15.

I think some of the symbols change depending on the font that you use. Whether or not you use the leading zero gives different symbols. To a puter 0155 and 155 are 2 completely different things, a leading zero IS a significant digit. On my puter ALT+155 = ¢ ALT+0155 = › ALT+1155 = â ALT+162 = ó ALT+0162 = ¢ ALT+1162 = è

The " ¢ " key is there, it is just hiding. You press and hold ALT and then hit 1 5 5 on the numeric keypad and release ALT. and presto a ¢ appears. If you are on a laptop with no numeric keypad like I am. there should be NUM LOCK button somewhere to turn part of the alpha keyboard into a numeric keypad. There are a lot of useful symbols that can be accessed this way once you figure out their codes. I also use the degree symbol ° a lot as ALT+248. Did you notice the thread where The wonderful all knowing Boss man has made pics automatically disappear from quotes?? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?120796-Pic-from-phone-test

That gasket is holding oil in. There is a lot of oil splashing around in there when running. The stator is cooled by the engine oil being sprayed over it.

If you are going to replace the valve cover gaskets, you should absolutely check the valve clearance. You already did 90% of the work of a valve check just to get to the gaskets, the valves will be right there staring at you, and it only takes a few minutes to check the clearances. They may be fine and need no changes, but at least you will know what the deal is and be able so say to a buyer with a clear conscience that the valves are good. At this point checking the valves is a no cost selling point.

Geeezzz With all of these drops, the drop fund should be doing pretty good by now.................

I am in the same boat. The only time that I get numbing is when the Dr thinks he will hit a nerve. Most of my issues are very small so I get no numbing, the numbing is way worse that the drilling and filling. Never had nitrous either so I don't know what that does for things.

That one is way to big for me.

Testing:nanner: Woo hoo it works. I did have to clear my cookies to make it work. Thanks Boss!

The oil level light will sometimes come on during hard acceleration. The oil sloshes to the rear of the engine and the sender sees low oil.

On the starter. You mentioned that you had the side cover off for polishing. Did you use a new gasket when you put it back on or did you use a sealer? You need the gasket thickness in there or the cover will bind the starter gears. On my 88 it does not mater what the air temp is, if the engine is cold it needs some choke to start.

I fixed the Nanner smile in the "Medium Standard" smiles so that it is not a half page of blank space. At least I think I did. All that white space just bothered me.

I just had to try it on my phone. And to see if I could do online on the phone. It seems to work exactly the same as on computer.

A full tank has the fuel level above the carbs. Once the fuel level drops to the level of the lowest float bowl the siphon will no longer happen. Since it is draining down to a half gallon left in the tank, the gas is all not coming thru the carbs. The par that puzzles me is that there is no gas smell in the garage with 5 gallons of gas evaporated in 72 hours, it should stink like gas real bad unless the garage is very well ventilated. I'm still :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin:

First place to check is the oil. Is the oil level still at half or below on the sight glass? I had that gremlin visit me to until I kicked him out, I guess he headed north. I never did figure out where he was putting the gas. But after a few tanks he quit.

Only had one tip over. Bike was parked in the back yard with a 5 inch pad under the side stand. The ground was so soft it drove that 5 inch pad into the ground until the bike tipped over. Of course the side stand then stopped sinking so the bottom of the bike was higher than the top of the bike withe the side stand holding the bottom up high. I had to lift the bike over the side stand to get it back up and moved it to concrete. First I knew there was a problem was when the wife came in and asked why I had the bike laying on its side. AND as mentioned the guards on a 1st gen do not stop the bike from going ALL the way over. It does not even start to slow down till the fairing hits the ground. And just to jinks myself, I have not yet dropped a bike in 30+ years of riding. Oh dang, there is no wood to knock on anywhere around here.................... I'm toast. I guess tomorrow I will be picking the bike up..............

I sent you an email. I don't have txt.

You just missed Orlins MD in Veroqua WI. It is always the last weekend in June. I just went thru there on my way home from the weekend. I know Milwaukee area is a bit more of a ride.

I was looking at one of these smaller toy haulers. I wanted something to haul either my Venture or a golf cart. This 14 footer will do the job. Because it is smaller most of the toy weight is over the axles so tongue weight added or removed is not near as much of an issue. I only need it as a dry place to sleep, so I do not need a big fancy rig.

I never tried sporting clays but it does sound like fun. But then anything that goes bang is fun. IF I would have been able to make it down there I would have sprung the $39 in a heart beat. At least I would be humorous, I can not hit clay to save my life, put feathers or fur on it and I rarely miss. I sure wish I could be there.....

If part of your goal is to reduce power draw, and get more light, the Daymaker is advertised as 70 watts, your stock headlight is 55/60 watts. So the LED will draw MORE power than the stock bulb. A 35Watt HID will put out way more light than a stock halogen or Silver Star and use less power in the process. Some of the LED headlights are catching up to the HID in light output, but all the ones that I have seen that are close in light output also draw twice the power of the HID to do it. I do understand that LED is the new easy, modern and cool thing to do. But the higher amp draw is hard on your switches, connectors, wires and charging system. My HID is now 6 years old and 30K miles and all still original. I am currently looking to upgrade my new truck to HID also.

PM sent. Glad that you found an issue that can be fixed easily.