Flyinfool

You do NOT want to apply the Temp paint on the weld joint area, just near it. It WILL contaminate the joint if it is in the joint. Next to the joint is no problem.

You are assuming that she was paying enough attention to her surroundings to have even seen or noticed the cop in front of her.

If you are going to go the aluminum solder route, I would get some Temperature Indicating Paint. This is a USA source but I am sure there is an equivalent over there. Since you need 700°F to work the solder, and aluminum melts at 1100°F, this paint will show when you have reached 900°F. Aluminum gives no warning before it melts and you have a gaping hole with no chance of repair. This paint will give you that warning that you are getting to hot. There is a bunch of technique in using that aluminum solder, find some scrap aluminum to practice on to get a feel for it before attacking the bike. The very experienced woman in the videos makes it look so easy............. just like a pro at anything can make it look easy.

I think that the connector used is marginal for the job when new. It does not take much contamination to cause melting. If you put in a HO stator it seems likely that you will melt the plug. As f ar as including it with the cables I would say no. It is an added expense that many just don't need. But offering it will get some sold, It is a PITA testing a stator that is soldered in. As far as connectors to find. The connector that is under the seat on a 1st gen that is for all of the rear lighting. Both sides of this one.

I know what you mean. I was sad to see my 96 GMC drive off with a stranger behind the wheel. I bought it new in 96 and had it for 17 years and 320K miles of fun times.

Good luck! It is gonna need a lot of lovin bestowed upon her.

WooHoooooo....... He was able to glue it back together with some pins pressed in for strength and fill the holes that were left. No shots, no pain, took about 15 minutes. But it did include torture, NO CHEWING for the next 8 hours.

I have never used Liquid Steel so I am not familiar with its properties. It might work in this aplication. This is another idea. It is always dangerous when I have ideas...... Clean it to within an inch of its life to be sure there is NO oil left on any surface of the boss inside and out. Use JB WELD to attach the broken piece back where it goes and let cure for 24 hours. Then use a coarse wire brush in a drill to clean the outside of the boss down to bare metal and roughen it up real good. Apply a good coat of JB Weld to the outside of the boss, and while wet, wrap it tightly with some thin bare steel wire (around 0.032 inch or 0.75mm) over the entire length of the boss. Smear some more JB weld before the original coat is set to be sure the wire is fully encapsulated. It might be easier to wrap the wire from the end toward the block so that the wire will stay in place as the OD of the boss gets bigger as you near the block. This might just end up stronger than new. Once you get this done make sure that the shaft still spins freely in the hole by hand. And do not try to run the starter with the cover off, the unsupported idler gears will break things again. I am just letting my poor little brain run amuck here.....

You just had to bring this subject up. Now I went and broke a molar in half. I'll find out in about an hour if they can save it or will have to yank it. The only good thing is that this is the one tooth that has had a root canal done so there is zero pain at this time. I am betting that Dr drill n fill can change that............. :fingers-crossed-emo ps. I have never been in to much pain to even need a second though about having ICE CREAM.

It is obvious that the Warden is the one that should be using that tool from now on, and YOU should point that out to her......... I guess I need to look at mine closer to see if there is room to get a drill to the engine. That sounds easier than pulling. Although once I tuned in the carb correctly it starts pretty easy. The factory "Tamper Proof" settings were way off on the lean side, it would have burned up pretty quick.

Nice bike, that is even the bestest and fastest color.

Yup what MiCarl said is the best way to fix it. BUT Before I would give up on it, or spend a bunch of cash, I would try to fix it myself. You certainly can not make it any worse than it is. worst case you still would need to find an engine or as Randy said, have a parts bike. It would be the same process though, take some real good measurements of the hole location, weld it up and drill and ream a new hole as close as possible to the same location. You could attempt this while the engine is still in the bike. All the other options would require pulling the engine. The good news is that this is for an idler gear for the starter, it is not spinning while the bike is running, it is only spinning when the starter is active. So even if you are off a little bit on the location it will likely last a long time. The gears have fairly big teeth so they can handle a small misalignment. Did you find the missing piece? or did it find its way into the bottom of the engine? If it made its way into the engine you may have to drop the oil pan to find it unless you have an aluminum magnet . Good luck in which ever way you go, and let us know what happens.

I guess it all depends on what you are shipping. I use USPS Flat Rate shipping for anything that I can stuff into the flat rate boxes. They have a 75lb weight limit. so I had to break up one shipment into 4 medium flat rate boxes at about 65LBS each. It was a pile of big end mills and other big cutting tools. It all made it no problem. UPS offers insurance but has a standard answer to deny the claim "Insufficient Packaging" their belief is that if it was properly packed it would not have been damaged. Even if it was packed by one of the UPS stores. Company I work for PAID UPS $10,000 to design the shipping container for the machines we make and they still try to claim insufficient packaging when they smash one. For delicate expensive stuff I have had the best luck with FedEX, but they are also the most expensive. I guess there are probably an equal number of shipping horror stories for every shipper out there. If you are shipping really big parts, I have used greyhound shipping to ship LARGE model aircraft across country, box size of 2 feet x 3 feet x 8 feet. Greyhound is slow, but it has always made it there with no damage. Compared to the normal shipping companies for big boxes Greyhound is less than half the price.

Slow cranking is also fairly common on a stock 1st gen. The newer 4 brush starter motors are much better. Even doing the grounding mod to the starter helps the slow cranking. Upgrading the 3 big power wires from the stock 10GA to 4ga welding cable also helps the cranking a lot. @yamagrl is now making a set of replacement cables.

Get a hold of @Prairiehammer with your VIN question. He has a wealth of knowledge on these things. I also never heard of Yamaha building Ventures in Mexico, but maybe he meant it was originally sold in Mexico.:confused24:

It is always the most fun when someone hijacks their own thread........

Hmmmmm FWIW I am running XP Pro SP2 and FireFox. All of the online ALT charts That I looked at including the one you posted list ☼ as ALT15 and all but the one you posted list ¢ as ALT155. Not saying either one is right or wrong, just that there are differences depending on your specific computer setup. As I mentioned earlier, there is more than one ALT code for each symbol. But they do all have the disclaimer that different programs will give different results. Now I am curious what setup others are running to see what other differences there may be, or if it is a difference in which font is selected, I am using whatever the default font for this site is. GEEEE, Thanks a lot............. Now I have another mystery to figure out.........................

That is what the stock plug looks like, at least my 88 has that same plug. I never looked it up in the manual but my only guess is that the screwdriver is for tightening so you don't strip the threads, and the hex is for getting it out when it is over tightened. But that is a purely a WAG.

Maybe we need to bury this in ❄ ❅ ❆ ☃ This site has lots of fun stuff http://www.alt-codes.net/

Condor Are you sure you actually typed ALT+155 and not ALT+15? There are many different alt codes to bring up the same symbols. most of the symbols repeat often, that is how they do keyboards for different languages, they just shift the codes. The same characters appear in different languages along with the special characters of that language.

To get the ☼ symbol I type ALT+15.

I think some of the symbols change depending on the font that you use. Whether or not you use the leading zero gives different symbols. To a puter 0155 and 155 are 2 completely different things, a leading zero IS a significant digit. On my puter ALT+155 = ¢ ALT+0155 = › ALT+1155 = â ALT+162 = ó ALT+0162 = ¢ ALT+1162 = è

The " ¢ " key is there, it is just hiding. You press and hold ALT and then hit 1 5 5 on the numeric keypad and release ALT. and presto a ¢ appears. If you are on a laptop with no numeric keypad like I am. there should be NUM LOCK button somewhere to turn part of the alpha keyboard into a numeric keypad. There are a lot of useful symbols that can be accessed this way once you figure out their codes. I also use the degree symbol ° a lot as ALT+248. Did you notice the thread where The wonderful all knowing Boss man has made pics automatically disappear from quotes?? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?120796-Pic-from-phone-test

That gasket is holding oil in. There is a lot of oil splashing around in there when running. The stator is cooled by the engine oil being sprayed over it.

If you are going to replace the valve cover gaskets, you should absolutely check the valve clearance. You already did 90% of the work of a valve check just to get to the gaskets, the valves will be right there staring at you, and it only takes a few minutes to check the clearances. They may be fine and need no changes, but at least you will know what the deal is and be able so say to a buyer with a clear conscience that the valves are good. At this point checking the valves is a no cost selling point.