Flyinfool

There is no better ground than direct to the battery. Are you sure the battery terminals are clean? Looking clean is not good enough. If direct to the battery does not fix the dimming then there is a bad contact in the power side somewhere between the battery and the bulb. If it is still dimming then the power source is in question, in this case the battery and/or the charging system are not capable of supplying enough power to operate everything that is connected and turned on.

There has been all great advise above. And most of my thoughts are already spelled out. I had the opportunity to buy the company that I worked for really cheap back when I was in my 30s and single with no responsibilities to anyone other than my self. To this day I still keep kicking myself for not taking the chance. You will never know for sure if you have the right stuff if you never try. One of the big points is to have legal help to be sure you are protected in the future, best of friends do not always remain best of friends once they become partners. I have seen it with to many of my friends. No such thing as an agreement if it is not in writing. This is a business and no longer a friendship. You have to treat it that way. Not to say that you can no longer be friends with your friend, but treating business as business will maximize the chances of remaining friends. Verbal agreements always are remembered differently over time. The words on a paper do not change with time. My sisters hubby along with a partner worked at an auto repair shop right out of high school. They were of good character that just could not go along with the shop owners requirement that the bill be padded with unneeded parts as often as possible. You know the cheap easy stuff like air filters and PCV valves. The 2 of them started their own shop and made the reputation of not being the cheapest place around, but the bill was low because they made a real effort to reuse any part that could be safely reused, even if it made the job a bit more difficult for them. If they knew a customer had money issues they would patch something up for cheap but make sure that the customer knew it was a temporary fix to get by till they could fix it right. AND ONLY replace parts that really need replacing. That alone accounted for a huge amount of word of mouth advertising that made them so busy they had to turn work away at times. I wish you the best of for which ever road you choose.

You let them get that close, and behind you, and with a sharp object???????

If it is just for clearance of the clutch spring, then maybe I can make it work. Now I have to wonder, I was planning to cut the middle of it out to put in a window so a clutch spring clearance issue may go away. I have an early 85 disassembled engine sitting in the basement with a bad 2nd gear.

Go get it done. I fully understand the pride of a job well done my me over just writing the check. I have done many projects where I was criticized because I could have just gone out and bought it. But then you miss the fun and accomplishment of doing it yourself.

Does anyone know if the clutch cover from an 85 will fit onto my 88? The part numbers are similar the '85 is 26H-15431-01-00 and the '88 is 1NL-15341-00-00. I do not care about the markings or emblems, just the mechanical fit.

I am pretty sure that the damage was done here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?123748-How-bad-do-I-need-choke-to-start-Choke-plungers-are-stuck-and-2-studs-broken&p=984953#post984953 For gluing or the aluminum solder I would not grind the V. The but joint of broken edges is giving you alignment and if you are going to wrap the joint the but joint is just a tack, the more rough edges you glue the better the alignment will be. Most readily available nuts that big will have a fairly coarse thread, I would be worried about the depth of the thread weakening the boss even more and having it snap off right at the base. Hey Bonehead......... (well you asked me to.......) You were right the first time, TIG will have a much smaller heat affected zone than using a torch for the soldering. The nearby seals will be much happier with TIG. With TIG the heat is concentrated to just the point of the arc, the torch flame will be heating a 3 to 4 inch diameter area. The TIG melts the metal almost instantly compared to having to hold the flame there for quite a while to get up to temp. The paint and the crayon are the same stuff, the paint is a little cheaper than the crayon. Here is the equivalent 900° crayon. Again I am sure this is available in Finland. It might even be a good idea to get a second heat indicator maybe around 300°F to put by the nearest heat sensitive point, like a gasket or a seal. So that you can tell if the whole case is getting to hot where it might damage something else. You would know when to stop and let things cool down.

A Dremel tool will be good for small parts and details, for the bigger flat areas it would work much better with a bench mounted buffing wheel.

You do NOT want to apply the Temp paint on the weld joint area, just near it. It WILL contaminate the joint if it is in the joint. Next to the joint is no problem.

You are assuming that she was paying enough attention to her surroundings to have even seen or noticed the cop in front of her.

If you are going to go the aluminum solder route, I would get some Temperature Indicating Paint. This is a USA source but I am sure there is an equivalent over there. Since you need 700°F to work the solder, and aluminum melts at 1100°F, this paint will show when you have reached 900°F. Aluminum gives no warning before it melts and you have a gaping hole with no chance of repair. This paint will give you that warning that you are getting to hot. There is a bunch of technique in using that aluminum solder, find some scrap aluminum to practice on to get a feel for it before attacking the bike. The very experienced woman in the videos makes it look so easy............. just like a pro at anything can make it look easy.

I think that the connector used is marginal for the job when new. It does not take much contamination to cause melting. If you put in a HO stator it seems likely that you will melt the plug. As f ar as including it with the cables I would say no. It is an added expense that many just don't need. But offering it will get some sold, It is a PITA testing a stator that is soldered in. As far as connectors to find. The connector that is under the seat on a 1st gen that is for all of the rear lighting. Both sides of this one.

I know what you mean. I was sad to see my 96 GMC drive off with a stranger behind the wheel. I bought it new in 96 and had it for 17 years and 320K miles of fun times.

Good luck! It is gonna need a lot of lovin bestowed upon her.

WooHoooooo....... He was able to glue it back together with some pins pressed in for strength and fill the holes that were left. No shots, no pain, took about 15 minutes. But it did include torture, NO CHEWING for the next 8 hours.

I have never used Liquid Steel so I am not familiar with its properties. It might work in this aplication. This is another idea. It is always dangerous when I have ideas...... Clean it to within an inch of its life to be sure there is NO oil left on any surface of the boss inside and out. Use JB WELD to attach the broken piece back where it goes and let cure for 24 hours. Then use a coarse wire brush in a drill to clean the outside of the boss down to bare metal and roughen it up real good. Apply a good coat of JB Weld to the outside of the boss, and while wet, wrap it tightly with some thin bare steel wire (around 0.032 inch or 0.75mm) over the entire length of the boss. Smear some more JB weld before the original coat is set to be sure the wire is fully encapsulated. It might be easier to wrap the wire from the end toward the block so that the wire will stay in place as the OD of the boss gets bigger as you near the block. This might just end up stronger than new. Once you get this done make sure that the shaft still spins freely in the hole by hand. And do not try to run the starter with the cover off, the unsupported idler gears will break things again. I am just letting my poor little brain run amuck here.....

You just had to bring this subject up. Now I went and broke a molar in half. I'll find out in about an hour if they can save it or will have to yank it. The only good thing is that this is the one tooth that has had a root canal done so there is zero pain at this time. I am betting that Dr drill n fill can change that............. :fingers-crossed-emo ps. I have never been in to much pain to even need a second though about having ICE CREAM.

It is obvious that the Warden is the one that should be using that tool from now on, and YOU should point that out to her......... I guess I need to look at mine closer to see if there is room to get a drill to the engine. That sounds easier than pulling. Although once I tuned in the carb correctly it starts pretty easy. The factory "Tamper Proof" settings were way off on the lean side, it would have burned up pretty quick.

Nice bike, that is even the bestest and fastest color.

Yup what MiCarl said is the best way to fix it. BUT Before I would give up on it, or spend a bunch of cash, I would try to fix it myself. You certainly can not make it any worse than it is. worst case you still would need to find an engine or as Randy said, have a parts bike. It would be the same process though, take some real good measurements of the hole location, weld it up and drill and ream a new hole as close as possible to the same location. You could attempt this while the engine is still in the bike. All the other options would require pulling the engine. The good news is that this is for an idler gear for the starter, it is not spinning while the bike is running, it is only spinning when the starter is active. So even if you are off a little bit on the location it will likely last a long time. The gears have fairly big teeth so they can handle a small misalignment. Did you find the missing piece? or did it find its way into the bottom of the engine? If it made its way into the engine you may have to drop the oil pan to find it unless you have an aluminum magnet . Good luck in which ever way you go, and let us know what happens.

I guess it all depends on what you are shipping. I use USPS Flat Rate shipping for anything that I can stuff into the flat rate boxes. They have a 75lb weight limit. so I had to break up one shipment into 4 medium flat rate boxes at about 65LBS each. It was a pile of big end mills and other big cutting tools. It all made it no problem. UPS offers insurance but has a standard answer to deny the claim "Insufficient Packaging" their belief is that if it was properly packed it would not have been damaged. Even if it was packed by one of the UPS stores. Company I work for PAID UPS $10,000 to design the shipping container for the machines we make and they still try to claim insufficient packaging when they smash one. For delicate expensive stuff I have had the best luck with FedEX, but they are also the most expensive. I guess there are probably an equal number of shipping horror stories for every shipper out there. If you are shipping really big parts, I have used greyhound shipping to ship LARGE model aircraft across country, box size of 2 feet x 3 feet x 8 feet. Greyhound is slow, but it has always made it there with no damage. Compared to the normal shipping companies for big boxes Greyhound is less than half the price.

Slow cranking is also fairly common on a stock 1st gen. The newer 4 brush starter motors are much better. Even doing the grounding mod to the starter helps the slow cranking. Upgrading the 3 big power wires from the stock 10GA to 4ga welding cable also helps the cranking a lot. @yamagrl is now making a set of replacement cables.

Get a hold of @Prairiehammer with your VIN question. He has a wealth of knowledge on these things. I also never heard of Yamaha building Ventures in Mexico, but maybe he meant it was originally sold in Mexico.:confused24:

It is always the most fun when someone hijacks their own thread........

Hmmmmm FWIW I am running XP Pro SP2 and FireFox. All of the online ALT charts That I looked at including the one you posted list ☼ as ALT15 and all but the one you posted list ¢ as ALT155. Not saying either one is right or wrong, just that there are differences depending on your specific computer setup. As I mentioned earlier, there is more than one ALT code for each symbol. But they do all have the disclaimer that different programs will give different results. Now I am curious what setup others are running to see what other differences there may be, or if it is a difference in which font is selected, I am using whatever the default font for this site is. GEEEE, Thanks a lot............. Now I have another mystery to figure out.........................