Flyinfool

Have you done the diode test on your RR? Have you done the voltage output test on the stator? This is a weird one to have voltage drop with increasing RPM. I am wondering if something in the stator or RR is breaking down as the voltage and frequency of the stator rise with RPM. This could cause the RR input to go from 3 phase to single phase power.

I heard Yamaha has spent huge amounts of money developing a new touring bike. They have something almost ready to release. and then they look here and most are saying that they would not buy the air cooled V twin that they came up with. Most have said that the spy photos are fugly. Did we scare them into dropping the idea of a big touring bike? Did we scare them into following our blueprint to a touring bike and they are redesigning to be closer to what we said we would buy? Hey we can only guess and dream at this point. We have been let down AGAIN. I am sure that there will be another bunch of folks that will jump ship and switch to another brand before the next September rolls around. Most ship jumpers never come back. OK, I'll shut up now.

Bummer. It would be nice to have a less expensive other source.

So all of September of this year has come and gone. That was my question too. Yea I can read, but that does not mean I believe. SO WHERE IS IT?????????

Like this? or this one?

Yes I have seen it. Yes I want one. Yes Christmas is coming good buddy. Thank you.................

Voltages look spot on. As for the back lighting? on a 2nd gen I don't know.

The only sure fire thing that I have found for keeping stuff out of the gutters is a good chain saw. My house has a dormers so I can stick my head out the window to inspect the gutters. I have not had to clean a gutter in since I bought my chain saw 30 years ago. I know that will not work for everyone, but it worked for me. None of my neighbors have trees close enough to get stuff in my gutters. As a bonus, I do not have to rake leaves in the fall either.

The original screws are held in with Loctite. Blue Loctite releases at 275°F and red Loctite releases at 400°F. I believe the factory used red loctite on these screws. In this case it does not matter if you heat the screw and or the cover as long as the threads get to 400°F the screw will come out easy. Do not overheat and melt the cover. When you get your new screws, I could not find screws the correct length so I had to get longer and cut them down. In this case the screw length is important because there is not a lot of room for grip. If the screw is just a bit to long it will bottom out in the hole and feel like it is tight but the stator will still move in operation. If the screws are to short they will not engage enough threads and could strip out under load. I would / did use Loctite to put the new screws in. That is how they were designed to be held in.

The "D"s are the first place an old gasket will start to leak as the old rubber gets hard and starts to shrink.

While we do have ethanol free gas in the state. It is still a 75 mile drive one way to the nearest GAS station. By the time I get home with the GAS I will need GAS again.

Hey Puc I got me one of those programmer tuner gizmos fer my truck. I am sure we can find someplace to plug it in and then be able to mess with the tuning, rev limiters, idle speed, timing and stuff. I even have some good grease in case the plug goes in a bit tight............... We'll get you ALL fixed up. You just keep gettin better. I'll keep looking for ways to help you get more exercise...................... Maybe if you are lucky I can find you a nice thick bright white blanket that is more than 6 inches thick.

Summer has been ended due to lack of interest. It is time to break out the skies and shoes, snuggle up close with ones significant other in front of a fire and swap summer stories and lies with a bunch of good friends.

ALL ringed engines have blow by. The crankcase must be vented to relieve that pressure. Check your vents all the way to the air cleaner be sure nothing is plugged up. THEN put in new valve cover gaskets. As long as you are there, for peace of mind measure your valve clearances.

Puc, Puc, Puc, Puc, Puc. What are we gonna do with you. I thought I gave you explicit instructions to get better, so you, Tippy and Sis can get back to zippin all over this country and then write ride reports all winter while the flys. At least with my electrical issues the broken wires could be soldered back together and add a bit of shrink wrap to protect the splices. Getting a tuner installed was the next option if the splices did not work. But my issue had me running a bit on the rich side. I was idling at 85 to 115 and when stressed shot over redline to over 200, it was not a smooth idle either, constantly bouncing around in that range. It was the wires to my governor and rev limiter that were broken so the electronics could not maintain a proper RPM. Now that the gov is reconnected, my idle speed is back where it should be at 45 to 48 with a redline of 190. Been running nice and smooth on all 4 since the electrical work was done June of '15. With deer season approaching I am back into form doing the hill climbing and looking for my first big enduro soon. I did do a 5K mud run/walk mini enduro this last summer to benefit breast and testicular cancer. It sure sounds like this new tuner should help out your TCI to keep things running nice and smooth. Hoping the best for you to get all of these issued ironed out real quick and back to screaming down the road with your hair on fire. Well maybe you already did to many runs with your hair on fire................

You still want to keep a good old fashioned battery charger around. If you ever run the battery dead, these newfangled smart chargers will look at the battery voltage and decide that maybe you have it hooked to something smaller than a 12V battery and will not turn on. This makes it difficult to get the battery back going after you left the head lights on over night or something else drains the battery bad. The good old dumb charger that will try to charge anything up to 12V is what you need to get that dead battery started. I don't use tenders on anything, My RV battery is 10 years old and only gets used 3-4 times a year, and still handling things fine and I get 6 years out of a flooded MC battery and in Wisconsin means it sits for 6 months at a time.

I wonder how that manifold would work with a small TBI system instead of a carb?? Yes the carb will be a LOT easier to set up initially. You will need to add throttle position sensor, O2 sensor(s), higher pressure fuel pump and lines, vacuum sensor mass airflow, etc. But I hate carbs..........

Well come on up here if/when it gets cold out. We are about to break all kinds of heat records for the year, its looking like we are headed for another warm winter.

See what you get for asking the wife. You do know that it is always easier to ask for forgiveness than to beg for permission. But DANG! I hate it when that happens.

Gold could be cast into muzzle loader bullets. Silver is kind of light and hard for good bullets. I am not to worried about werewolves just the timber wolves.

You/we can only hope for a ton of snow. It is coming sooner than later..................

I only partly misunderstood. I'm . Moving a connection from the battery to the frame will never make it better. Do you have any connectors between the switch and the LEDs? Measure the voltage across the LEDs when they are damp and glowing dim with everything turned off. If there is a connector in the system disconnect it and see if that voltage is still present on the LED side or the switch side. For testing, try putting a plastic bag over the switches to keep them dry and see if the damp days will still light the LEDs. There is a good chance you are getting moisture into the switch and it is allowing some small amount of current to leak past the contacts. The driving lights may still have the leakage current but the leakage may not be enough to light them even dimly. You mentioned that it does this even with the keys in the house. Is this switch panel wired to have power all the time or only with the key turned on?

I have to agree on a 4x4 for a bug out vehicle. While a jeep would be ideal for getting around it does not carry much stuff. I get my P/U into some pretty weird places when I want to hide from people for a quiet weekend. AND my P/U will hold a LOT more gear than a jeep. It will also easily top 100 mph if need be. And unlike in the movies, a bike will not run it off the road. When the stuff hits the fan, bullets and food will be the new currency. Gold, diamonds, silver, and other precious metals will be worthless. Well gold may still have some value, it is soft and heavy and it should be easy to cast into bullets.

Was in the 40s last night, MIGHT get up to 60° today. Weather man was starting to breaking the word SNOW on TV last night. He must have used it at least a half dozen times. Gonna have to get to work on that special 60° SNOW for @cowpuc.

Nice catch on finding a loose screw.................... Your mileage sure sounds like it is running on 3 cylinders. These bikes run incredibly smooth on 3. There have been people new to this bike that ran on 3 for over a year and never new it thinking it was running great, except for the gas mileage. The quick check is to start the bike cold and see if all 4 exhaust headers heat up at the same rate. That does not mean that you are not dropping a cyl at speed.