Flyinfool

Yellow SNOW!

Yes WHY are you wasting time on this thread when there is a Wasting Time thread for that purpose.

Well it is on a full 360° turret with a full 90° of elevation adjustment. So there is not telling where it might get pointed.................... Sooooooo When I go to the chat room and there is no one there to chat with, I could easily get bored and have to go outside and play.................

Since it is an 83 with the known possible frame issues, it might be a great time to weld in the braces to prevent future cracking of the frame.

I might have kind of over shot ol @cowpuc just a tad. It might take a bit to get the new elevations dialed in to get the proper range. I have a lot of new POWER on tap.

Not only did I hear that a lot as a kid, but I also said it a lot as a parent. My kids knew better that to try to see if it was a bluff or not.

This is also true and is the reason I have a mosfet style on my bike. I just hate the whole concept of always running the electrical at 100% capacity till the magic blue smoke comes out. But Mosfet is also not how the system is designed, and most people still have the stock system still in place.

I found a new way to waste time. I ripped out a perfectly good sidewalk and replaced it with a new sidewalk and blew out my back in the process. Now I get to sit around wasting more time while this old bag of bones tries to heal.

Why is the weather so miserable today? Why does it look so much like it wants to SNOW?

Ummmmm.......... Yes..................

With the way the charging system is designed on these bikes, the stator puts out way more power than what is needed by the bike. The RR takes all of the excess power that is not needed and effectively shorts it to ground. This means that no matter what you pull for a load, the stator output does not change. and the higher the load on the system the LESS heat in the RR. It is kind of counter intuitive and hard to wrap ones head around. This is all fine and good until you start to ask the system for more power than it has available to give, that is the point where things really start to get hot and fail. If you get into that point, you will be going thru stators, not batteries.

I would think that a BMW or a Porsche would suffice.

I guess that is one of the reasons I have never camped in a "campground". I prefer places that even the 2 trackin @cowpuc would not find. My favorite campsite is 22 miles from the nearest pavement, and you need more than 10 inches of ground clearance to even get in there. I can spend a week and never see or even hear another human the whole time.

It is a sad but true fact that in order to train a dog you must be smarter than the dog, other wise the dog will train you. y next door neighbor had a yapper. He could not understand why my dog does not bark, I tell him it is because I trained her, same reason mine does not run away or even leave the yard.

I have two of the Bad Boys from Harbor freight. The first one was put on the right side 5 years ago and the second was put on the left side 4 years ago. They both still sound the same as the day they were installed. As mentioned a few times, It is very important to feed horns all the power they want. Using the existing bikes wiring and switch to feed the horns will reduce volume and will also reduce life expectancy. You must use a relay and at least 14ga wire to feed the horns right from the battery. MOST of the motorcycle and car horns available as aftermarket are rated at 4 inches from the horn. A db rating with no distance is a totally meaningless number that is only good for advertising to the unenlightened masses. If someone is 4" from the horn it is to late to do anything. Sound pressure is reduced by half every time you double the distance. 3db is what it takes to double or halve the sound pressure. Do the math and you can almost yell louder than most horns. I am still working on mounting a train horn to my bike, it is rated at at least 120dba @ 100 yards. That is the minimum spec for a train horn, some are much louder. When I used to work for Prime MFG one of our products was train horns for the railroad industry. All of our horns were tested to meet 150dBa @10 feet. Testing day got really loud in the shop. That will get some serious attention, once they crawl back into the skin they just jumped out of. I have come up with 2 possible ways to do this, just have to decide which way to go.

Lowering the front end until there is weight on the front wheel while the springs are removed will "fully compress" the front forks. It just means to compress the forks to the stop. you do not need pressure on the fork. Little by little I am shortening my spacer. The next step is no plastic spacer, just the factory aluminum one with the O-ring on it. I am still looking forward to the day that I get DOWN to only 230lbs of lard................. I am expecting the slow speed handling to get even better with no plastic spacer, it has improved with every shortening so far and the high speed handling has not changed with the spacer getting shorter. I know that at some point you cross a line and the low speed keeps getting better but at the expense of the high speed handling getting worse. Factory recommends 10W oil some people recommend 15W oil and some like me that can not decide, mix the 2 together to get 12.5W oil. Is it better or worse, I am to lazy to do the testing to find out.

Sometimes blessing come wrapped in the strangest of ways. dropping the bike got you to find the leak. having that hose blow on the road and lubing the rear tire with nice slippery anti freeze would have been much worse. There are some threads where some one figured out which car hose can be cut to make the various hoses for a venture.

I have been advocating grinding down the corner of that mounting point for a long time now. I then touch it up with "chrome" Colored paint from the hardware store so that the bare metal does not rust. You would have to look close to notice it.

It would be SOOOOOO easy for the phone makers to set the phone so that text or hand use phone would not function (except for 911) while the phone is traveling at more than 5 mph. Yes this would mean that the passengers also can not text, so what, they'll live. To me a true hands free phone is no different that talking with a passenger. I saw one yesterday where the guys eyes were so bad that the phone had to be 6 inches from his nose and a lot of squinting thru Coke Bottle glasses. This means that he had NO CHANCE to even catch something in his peripheral vision, the phone filled his full field of view. I wonder if his vision was good enough to even be driving.

I guess the technology makes this bike immune to a tire blowout, or a texter running a red light, or creaming you from behind while you are stopped a t a red light. or sideswiped on the freeway, or even just going into a curve to fast and finding gravel or any of the other myriad of things that you have no control over that can take you out.

Since you went down on the right side. Check the plastic elbow that runs from the water pump to the thermostat housing, the right engine guard can flex enough to put a tiny ding in that elbow and then spring back to looking like plenty of clearance, then a few months from now you will be chasing a coolant leak. That is the main reason that I de-linked my brakes, twice I got very close to going down by using only the rear brake and have the front lock up on gravel.

So what I draw from the video is that the CT was not able to hold a line in the curves and twice crossed over a double yellow center line. Or was that an optical delusion on my part?

Sometimes I really hate when I am right. Glad you are OK and hope the bike is not to bad either.

I would clean the rust off and paint any bare metal before assembling any part. I would also connect a set of jumper cables to the starter to be sure the engine still turns over. it is nice and exposed right now if it needs work.

Some more info;