jfman

Fortnine doesnt sell OEM parts AFAIK

Anyone knows of a website where you can order discounted Yamaha oe parts online in Canada? If I do business stateside, any savings get eaten up by customs and shipping costs. JF

Like the title says. Lookibg for two good shim buckets. i am in Montreal Canada

Now that I have pulled an measured shims from two seperate ventures I will answer my own question. On the intake side, most shims were 270 and 272 with some 275 and 278. On the the exhaust side, most shims were 282 and 288 with one 280 and one 285 Across two bikes I was able to switch about 8 shims from the intake to the exhaust side. for the same two bikes I ordered a pack of five 2.60 two packs of 5 2.65 and a pack of 5 2.70 I am setting all clearances at or near the top of the range. doing two bikes at once to be able to buy shims in bulk. for two bikes I juste spent 230$CAD for 20 shims when said and done. Holy sh..

Sorry for the pessimism: I checked this eBay listing and they are for thicknesses above 2.90 Most Toyotas seem to run 28mm shims, 25mm more on the rare side and on Toyota forums they claim that what Toyota drops in at the factory is all above 3.00mm All of the Honda Cars listed I know very weel. They run K and J series Honda motors and dont have valve shims. The have a screw and nut setup.

Sometimes the folks that know their stuff arent the ones at the parts/service counter. Once on a trip across the US I went to a dealership to buy a wheel bearing for my Kawasaki Versys. This dealer sold both Kawasaki and Suzuki. After he had verified that they did not have the OE Kawasaki bearing in stock, I asked him too look up for same bearing for a Suzuki Vstrom. The parts counter guy became defensive and argued with me that I could not put a Suzuki bearings in my Kawasaki. Meanwhile these bikes have the same size rear wheel bearing.

Makes you think about if the dealer really checks them when you hand them the big bux for the job.

I need to do 2 bikes so I broke down and bought the tool. $56 USD on eBay with shipping to Canada came out to 87$ CAD ouch! That is one pricey little bugger.

My research is that that 25mm shims are kind of an oddball in the MC world, hence the Reason they are so darn expensive. I actually dont even have the balls to ask my Yamaha dealer for free exchange of shims because I feel like I would be giving him the short end of the stick by giving him my thick shims. Maybe my train of tought is wrong.

I don't understand why shops accept to take thick shims in exchange for thin shims. since people keep replacing thick with thin, wont they wind up having a whole bunch of undesireable thick shims in the end?

For those who have done valve adjustments on untouched Ventures, what was commonly observed OE thickness for shims? reason I am asking is that there is a used valve shim kit for sale locally and I want to guess to see if what he has left in it will help me in my adjust or not. But I need the tool in the kit to pull my OE shims . I measured my clearances and I have tight but very stable clearances across all intake valves and all exhaust valves. The intakes are all .08mm or .09mm The exhausts are all .15mm or .16mm dont wanna buy his kit and find out all shims I needed are gone.

Does the shipping from outside Canada kill the savings vs buying from the local dealer?

I was a bad boy. I tapped it and it sunk in about 1mm and it quit leaking. Gonna add JB weld on top just to be certain.

Propbably not. I had permanently enabled them(the hydraulic version) on a previous Venture I had.

Hey guyz! I would like to take the front end from my 1988 and swap it onto my 1985. Also, inversly, I want to installe the front ends from my 1985 ont my 1988. That is because the 1985 is my keeper and the 1988 will get resold. Do the tubes from one slide right into the triples? Anything to consider?

I removed the vacuum slides from the carbs in -13c weather(unheated garage)and one of the the gaaddarn slides cracked in 2! 35yo plastic is brittle in the cold

Two of the 8 carbs I been working on the a/f screw was completely seized. One I got out but another the head of the screw stripped and it's stuck in there forever I guess, never to be adjusted again unless I tackle it with an easy out. For this reason it's important to me that the tip of the blade fits into the slot on the screw dead on with little or no play. That way when you twist on the driver, the whole blade is making contact with the whole slot on the screw, minimizing your risk of stripping the head.

Went tool shipping yesterday with an a/f mix screw in hand and picked this guy up. JET brand model 720813 works perfect (it wasnt cheap)

Thank you for this info. I used a photo from another set of carbs I am working on because I was too lazy to go get an actual photo from the bike in the garage. I guess there is no point tapping on it as the culprit is probably the little oring. These carbs habe been off the bike for 4 years. I wonder if there is a chance the oring will swell and the leak fix itself. I had that happen on another bike that had been sitting. It leaked fuel from a injector connector for a short while then it quit as the seal swelled up.

I am planning on this mod for the sake of keeping the air side of the carbuteror clean. if you install a breater, do the oil fumes make a mess in the valley or does only air escape?

I have the exact same problem on one of my carbs. It weeps fuel from this plug on the leaft rear carb. I am considering tapping on it using a small socket as a "punch" Maybe that will seat it correctly.

Thanks a lot! Carbs are now off but wanna make sure i clean it correctly. Btw the pilot on the suspect carb was massively clogged.

when looking at the mouth of the carb after removing the airbox, is it the orifice with the large brass jet or is it the other orifice close to it?

It was a Canadian bike I have to go to tthe dmv saturday, Gonna ask them the vin and Ill give it to you

Do you have the 1983?