jfman

I had one intake valve on my bike where this phenomenon happened: The clearance as per the book with the lobe on the side was "adequate". right at .10 After replacing shims all over the bike, I rechecked the clearance for all 16 valves. The same valve now with the lobe straight up had…. drumroll……. no clearance at all or not enough to fit my smallest shim on my set. When you arent on the lobe of the cam, I dont care which section of the cam you are on, no clearance is bad because it means that soon the valve wont shut properly. I was worried the vlave was toast so I squeezed some fuel in the actual port with a syringe to check if the valve held the fuel. Luckyly it did. In the end I did not want the bike to run at no clearance so I called the Yamaha dealer and ordered another thinner shim for this one valve. This was the most worn our valve on my bike btw.(running the thinnest shim)

Hey guys! Are the plastic filler pieces resting above the valve covers really necessary on our bikes? Any true ill effects from not running them? Thanks!

Oh I know how you know I had to replace a bucket on my bike from making this mistake. I wanted to swap shims from one cyclinder to the other without doing the whole musical chair dance and I nicked the edge of the bucket and had to buy a new one. Remove cams and retime the bike.

Is this a common problem for these bikes or am I unlucky that both of my ventures have this?

I honestly do not remember. I just removed all boots to make room for valve covers removal and also to clean them and threw all of the bolts in a ziplock bag. What do I do considering both bikes have been like this for years. Judging from the condition of the gaskets and seals that O am pulling, it's been well well over a decade that these bikes have been in this condition.

On both of my ventures when I first disassembled the bikes initialy to remove the boots, oïl came out of the two same holes on both bikes. So I scratched my head but marked it as normal. The far left front mounting hole and the rear far right mounting hole seps oil for both bikes. I even pulled the cams on one bike and did not seen/notice damage in these holes.. So I am saying both of my bikes have been like this for a lo-onng time.

I cant go to the auto store right now but I do have a tube of brake caliper sliding pin grease that is heat resistant and supposed to not iterfere with rubber. What do you think?

I did not even notice the difference in bolt lenght when I removed the boots. So you are saying the two bolt holes that seep oïl require use of the shorter bolts?

When installing the carb boots/manifold on you engine, do you guys recommend oiling/lubing the new orings (with ATF) for a better seal or do you recommend putting a film of RTV on the cylinder head mating surface or the boot mating surface prior to install?

I would like to add to this that if you take the time to take this whole thing apart, theres an oïl feed tube that goes from the Bottom end to this housing. That tube has two orings and it might be a good a idea to repalce them as well and it will take you 2 minutes. Also after doing this job on two bikes I do not think it can be done with the carbs on. Event with the carbs and the intake boots off, I had to pull the nut off the tensionner to get my some extra room to pull this item. On one of the two bikes, the aluminum mating surface was corroded beyond the seal and it was just a mater of time before the collant would contaminate the oïl. I sanded the surface with 800 grit to remove the corrosion and I Added Yamabond before installing the piece. I think this job needs to be Added to a must do while the carbs are off if you care for your bike.

I paid 89cents a liter in Québec two days ago. 3 weeks ago the same station was at 1,10$

Thank you for this link. Did not even know it was avail. I just read thru this manual and I am amazed that there are no actual marks tu line up like 95% of bikes. Most bikes you line a few lines/marks and you are done. On this one it's more vague. but no big deal, my bike matches what this manual says and also since I have a second venture with covers off. I compared both bikes with the same reference points and there are 100% identical. thanks guys!

I unexpectedly had to remove the cams from the front of the motor on my 1988 Venture. I dont have a Clymer manual but befor I pulled the cams I marked the the chains and sprocket with a sharpie. I put everything back like it was and now I am at the point where I want to put the valve covers back on. before I do, I want to be certain that timing is correct. I found two marks on the flywheel thru the sight. T1 and T2 Anyway Without a book I can't figure it out. Maybe I have it wrong. When timing the front cylinders, which marks to use? Any help is appreciated. JF

47$ cad shipping, 2.5 weeks to get the parts and 55$cad in customs on a 290$cad order. In the end I saved no money vs. buying from my dealer and more hassle, longer wait. I dont have the parts as I have to go to Canada Post to pay my 55$

You guyz are making me spend too much money. Since both my Ventures are apart for carb/valves, I just ordered these gaskets to be safe. And this is how a 350$ Venture becomes a 1000$ Venture

Ron Ayers shipped my order out on Tuesday from North Carolina. I check the tracking and 4 days later and my stuff in now in Florida. At this rate I calculated that my order will be in Peru by the end of next Week

Did you get hit with customs?

Overall solid bike and the 1986 doesnt ahve the 2nd gear issue. My advice to you is that before you tear into the carbs(and you likely will), arm yourself with patience, knowledge and some money for parts. And because the carbs are a decent job. and youll ahve the bike apart, it will be a good time to check adjust valves and replace the valve cover gaskets and the intake boot orings. All will be time consuming but feasable.

It was for the valve cover gaskets, water pump seals and fuel filters, petcok seals. I checked with Ronayers in the USA and they charge 32$ for shipping to Canada(same shipping price for one of these items or 2 of each items) Even with the US/CAN difference, the Ron Ayers prices are about 35% lower than my local dealer. So if you place a small order the 32$ shipping charge kills it but on a 200$ order it starts to make sense.

Thanks I ordered some for both my ventures. JF

It was for a first gen but I already found some.

Do the carbs have to be off to be able to remove this piece from the bike?

The load rating is 74 wichi is higher than my current Dunlop D404 140/90-16 at 71

Local guy is selling a brand new Michelin MT90B16 Commander 2 for a great price. my reasearch shows it will be a litte bit skinnier than the oem 140/90-16. will it be enough to make a negative difference what do you guyz think?

https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004446ff8700209bc78f34f/cylinder-head https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/4nk-11193-00-00/gasket-head-cover-1 Is this the correct part number for the upgraded Gen 2 valve cover gasket guyz? 4NK-11193-00-00 It is the same front and rear?