garyS-NJ

Thanks both! I just have the electronic copy of the manual. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Where is the best place to order progressive fork springs for my '84? Also any good links to instruct the task? And link showing how to change fork oil? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Can you say best place to buy the progressive springs and do you have any links on how to do the swap? (& link saying how to change fork oil). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

My bike is swimmy over 75mph. Neck feels good. Gonna do the progressive springs and fork oil.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I don't think a bad diode (the ones that disintegrate), will cause you to loose spark.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I had to take that lock completely apart and reassemble as something had rotated out of alignment..

Any links on checking fork spring health or those fork tube bushings??

Now that the thread moved from cruise control to speed to fuel milage to ice cream to speed again, how many of you folks are doing 120mph with your first gens? I have found that I get much better gas mileage when I'm easy taching the bike too, and I like ice cream also but over 85mph, my front end feels swimmy like it it isn't stabile. Not quick to dampen out an oscillation in steering angle

Yes, the shimmer piston ring fixed the E2. The input air filter was too clogged I'm sure even with the piston shimmer but I took the filter off fist thing and didn't replace until the fault code was gone. I never got into the reed valve.

Thanks all

My friend Henry took the carb set off his '86 or '87 and having trouble re-installing the cables. He's looking for pictures of carbs/cables routing. I only had the carbs off my '84 once and remember installing the cables was a bear. But another friend Aron had the cables off his '86 a few times and advised to install the cables on the carb set with them upside down, then flip and slide in over the manifold boots. so I shared this with Henry but he says that "one cable is unsupported and just aint right". He was wondering if he lost a support bracket and says the manual is no help. Can anyone share a close up picture of their '86 or '87 showing the left side carbs with cable routing? thanks!

mission success. I worked the class in manual and auto through low and medium settings (manually that's about 14psi up front and 42 psi rear.). I didn't want to see it not work so I didn't try the high setting figuring at my weight and with kind of loads I haul (petite), I might not ever need the high setting. I don't like the seat being a little taller but I'm totally floored with the ride (CLASS wasn't working when I bought it last year and so I've been riding with zero pressure in the suspension.) I figured out how to open the input air filter (duh) and replaced the petrified crumbles of old foam). So it was just shimming the pump piston ring.

Kevin, I just re upped my subscription here and your help alone is worth 20X the $12. Thanks. And Thank you Kiwi for also sharing.. I Forgot to mention, I found my input air filter very clogged blowing & sucking either way and only when I crushed in did it open up.. (yes, & I sucked in a bunch of particles of IDK what.). I'm inclined to fab some sort of foam filled canister otherwise ideas on that? And my dryer was pretty clogged (again the suck/blow!) but on dissassy, I found the desiccant beads mostly intact and just the foam filter ends a little compressed. I tried to work them around and reassembled but thinking more about how that things should be way free flow, I'm going to take it apart again and wash the foam (or replace). And I'll try baking out the desiccant but I have to wonder just how long it takes for that stuff to go pink (the cartridge says service every two years - but I'd like to meet one guy who does this.). Come to think of it and the whole CLASS and pump thing I have to wonder what Yamaha was thinking mounting all that crap instead of a couple valves and gauges.... In fact, seems with the progressive springs, folks don't even need air up front so again, WTF Yamaha? (but I do know thatsome sport/tour bikes (many?) have pressurized front forks. - I don't like the idea of trying to keep pressure in there..). I didn't remove my rear shock solenoid because I couldn't hit the screws and it seems to actuate well but nice to hear Kiwi above saying they all need not clunk to be within normal (and good god, I hope it isn't the controller but I think I at least the H setting button (or manual add air) is inoperable but I could come back to that...). I did take the time to wipe the solenoid piston and bore and see a little lubrication in there.. (BTW, THERE WAS LUBRICANT IN THE MANIFOLD AND DRIPPING OUT OF THE SHOCK LINES WHEN REMOVED FROM THE MANIFOLD). And I actuated the solenoids by hand a bunch of times trying to loosen them up but then firing them by grounding the controls never changed the action. The solenoid piston head washers looked clean but I didn't really look at the seats.. (whoops, rechecking that...). Reed Valve?? - I didn't see anything on the manifold at the dryer line in side but the other side had a black plastic thing with an electrical connector and two screws.. it was very hard to not take that apart and I think I'll leave it until I test BECAUSE I REALLY THINK MY ISSUE WAS THE PUMP PRESSURE. Yes, one connection leak was fixed by installing a missing o-ring (maybe I lost that the first time I took the dryer off!) and the pump body seam had a slight air leak too. But I'm thinking the pump should have had enough pressure to overcome these small leaks. Kevin that link you shared about the guy who shimmed the pump piston ring came in handy. Taking my pump apart, I did see the seams were treated to some kind of sealant but not on the entire seam, whoops, so I think I got that fixed on assy with some rubber glue. and my piston seemed to slide a little too freely in the bore. so I removed the nylon looking piston ring and put a wrap of medical tape in the groove before re-installing the ring. It was a little tight so I cleaned the bore with a dremmel scrub pad and reassembled sounds like the pump is a high compression motor percolating.. (actually I did one test with the head valves upside down and then another test it ran good and then I sealed the case and left it for the night..

I got rid of the E1 code by reflow in solder but now I can't get much pressure and it shuts off with an E2 code. Soapy spray air leak test found leak at input of dryer (o ring missing) & pump body seam (dissassy that next). But my solenoids are funny. Even on the bench with common 12v applied (verified right into solenoid poking wire) & grounding each black control wire), the rear shock solenoid actuates with a loud clunk but the front and discharge solenoids only actuate an out 1/8" (should be enough?). I took the front and discharge solenoids off to verify clean and not sticky.. comments on solenoids?? & and suggestions on sealing the pump and testing it? (I'm looking for Guage & fittings now)...

Talk about oil!! Nah, I'm just getting some miles on my bike after resurrecting her from a seized motor state and I've noticed clutch slip on highway uphill downshift 5-4 & heavy ish throttle. From what ice read this is almost to be expected ( smooth but not strong stock clutch..). So I'm figuring a spring upgrade and will continue see the plates when I get there (gotta learn about that fat disc thing..). But point here is I've been using the Rotella diesel oil (10w-30 or 40) in my bikes (for the extra zinc lubrication and its inexpensive) & good to here it should be no problem with the clutch (was worried about that but haven't snooped all the oil/clutch threads).

That's a good idea as I've heard that good oil makes for smooth shifting & I'm due for an oil change. In fact, Friday night before ride Saturday I ran Out of time to chg oil and just added a quart.. so it was low. Perhaps i didnt notice it getting worse as the oil got old and low but I think she always needed a good bang going 2-3. However, I could always shift without the clutch if I'm not on it hard and find the sweetspot. & I bled my clutch when i bought it to get disengagement and haven't cleared the return but I'd think a clogged return would keep the clutch slipping. My clutch seems to a activate fine as she will shift gears running but at a standstill and not creep in gear..

I think I've had the bike up to 110 before but not all that long. I don't remember feeling all that comfortable in terms of bike stability.. I've heard guys with big sport bikes saying their bike actually get more stabile at higher speeds as the fairings act to push the front end down. At high speeds my front end actually feels light as if she was taking off.. It was doing a snake like when you ride a dirtbike in sand and you have to let the front swim around.. regarding the fairing, I have my front lowers removed. Could that be a significant drawback at 100mph? I have not yet even checked the fork oil and IDK if she needs new front springs (30K miles?). But my front end feels good as I don't hear or feel any neck bearing clunk looseness (but I've read that the bearings need to be preloaded just so, and I imagine over tight bearings would not be good). with the front end lifted, the fork rotates easy enough and no noticeable play in the neck.. and with the front down and a handful of front brake, the front shocks seem to be dampening enough.. I just remembered perhaps significant, my CLASS works for the front (I forget where I set it) but doesn't work for the back (I get the E1 code). And even with just my weight (160lbs), if I hit a good bump, I can hear the back clunk like I'm bottoming out. Maybe my swing arm bushings are loose?? gotta check that too. just hard to believe I can ride fine at 80MPH with a loose swingarm though. And my tires are almost new Shinko 777's mounted and balanced by the dealer.. (and he said my front wheel balanced fine with no weights).. I know from experience that low pressure in the rear tire will make a bike swimmy/unstablie on the highway. could my front vs rear suspension air pressure have the same effect? Oh, and a big hell yea on the fork superbrace but they are a tad expensive and I think I should go through the other stuff first. good post here seems to point towards neck bearings: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?29566-Front-wheel-wobble

Yesterday I found I couldn't set my cruise control over 75 or 80.

Not to jack this thread but I have a somewhat similar problem faintly where my bike shifts easily to second but to shift from second to third I have to bang it. It up shifts easily from third to fourth and fourth to fifth. Down shifts are all easy.

Took my first longish cruise today in south jersey where you can generally cruise pretty fast (& after superbike races and eager to see my gf, I was cruising fast-ish). Anyway, with good skins, good tire pressures 38f, 40r), & I think good front end and rear, I found the bike swimmy around 100mph. I've heard guys with sport bikes saying their bikes stick to the road faster they go, but my bike 100mph felt close to a death wobble. There's no clunk in the neck.. where should I look first.. oh and I already chopped my ws down about 6".(back pressure and buffeting sicker with that big ws).

PO let my bike sit for a while and rust up.. couldn't get the hard bags opened or off but eventually with a lot of spray lube and prying (& banging) got them off and open. Key wouldn't rotate all the way to lock the bags closed or actuate the bar to open so the bag covers wouldn't latch closed. Took the lock covers apart (10mm plastic cover, then little rectangle metal cover with small Phillips screws. Clean the rust, spray, lube (used anti-seize), & on assy they work fine unless the etal plate Phillips screws are snuggled tight.. do I assemble with those screws loose? Seems weird..

I think carb cleaner eats all rubber (except maybe nitrile). I pulled my sliders out and cleaned the bores and slides with pb blast (which seems to rejuvenate rubber). with them installed, depressing each slider should be uniform pressure and spring back (slowing due to vacume release). Yes they should dance the same while running. Try running known good gas directly to carbs. Check plug wire resistance (little bugger resistors in there..) & replace boots if necessary (I had some go bad). When my cdi went bad, I saw in timing hole no advance. You can test the vacume sensor too.

Looks nice assembled with aftermarket six spring starter sprag but any suggestions to get 94 ft lbs on the rotor bolt and not much more or less? Used air impact to remove it but worried air impact on might be too much

Anyone have experience with this aftermarket part??http://m.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Starter-Clutch-for-Yamaha-VMAX-XVZ-1200-VMX12-Venture-Royale-Vision-/381316412272?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Chinese knock off. might be good, might be crap. I usually ask for actual current draw at voltage so I get an idea of power. even though many light nuts will say no, I still believe power is an indicator of light energy.. then if seller says one thing and you measure another power, so have an opportunity for return/refund..