garyS-NJ

No my bike doesn't wander and require corrections. It just feels very light in the steering (like I have a big fat chick hanging off the back making my front wheel come off the ground). So at higher speeds it snake weaves a lot. A snake weave can be introduced but hitting a bump and more so by a bump in a turn at speed. Its noticibly worse with more weight packed on the bike like gear and two up riding. Especially with any weight up high in or on the trunk. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

So the neck bearing helped quite a bit and the swing arm bearing improved it for a confident ride at speed? I get how a crosswind from a tractor tailer can push a bike a little sideways but what I have is a feeling of a very light front end which is prone to weave snaking and once in this oscillation, slow to dampen out.. I don't need to provide too much steering inputs to keep her on track which might be more wandering from an over tight or damaged neck bearing. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The white pvc looking spacers I pulled out were the same size as the ones which came with the progressives and they were about 1.25". The spacers provided about 1" compression with the new springs so I used them as is with the metal washer between spring and spacer. On my 1984 I didn't have any aluminum spacer with o ring. And no threaded nut but rather the fork tube cap was more a threaded plug with a 17mm hex key drive. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Time not miles? I was just going to ask Wiz how many miles.. I have about 30k mi on my 1984. And so every one of these old bikes needs neck and swingarm bearings replaced due to age? And is adding zerks the logical thing to do? Another thing Wiz, did you get a test ride after replacing just the neck or swingwarm bearings?(& how many miles do you have). & can you describe what you mean by " instabiity at speed" (besides the death wobble). & marcarl, any links for procedure to check the swing arm bearing? & is the shock bolt obvious and can it cause road snaking? & who makes a replacement bolt if it can't be had from Yamaha or aftermarket? & I was really hoping to get some comment as to why increased front end air pressure makes my road snaking worse (that couldn't affect load at the bearings very much). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

So it was swinger bearing and neck bearing accounting for the instability at speed?? With the neck bearing, did it feel lumpy/grindy when you turn the forks left and right with the wheel off ground? And for the swing arm bearing do you have a link for the quick check and also for bearing replacement?? On my 1984, I've been feeling instability described as road snaking which got better when I installed progressive springs and snugged neck bearing. But the snaking isn't gone enough. Before this work, I tried different setups for the front and rear shock air pressure and didn't find a set up which improved stability. However, with the Progressive front springs I've been running sure low pressure but today keeping the rear set to medium, when I raised the front pressure to LOW, the snaking instability got worse. This is opposite my intuition which says pressurized front means longer forks, more rake, and more trail which should improve high speed stability. Thoughts? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Anybody? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Has anyone done it? I delinked and had the wooden feel back brakes and now I need a rear master rebuild. Seems the rebuild kits can't be had under $70 & I heard a second gen master (very available), might give more pedal travel (less wood), Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I'd take that second gen rear master if you think it would line up with an adapter.. But someone must have done this before so I'll post on that to check complexity (I'm the crudest machinest). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I don't recall which used front master I bought but I think its 14mm (getting old, I should keep a logbook for reairs, maintenance and mods). So that explains the wooden feel to delinked back brakes. I read a post saying when delinking, after ditching proportionong valve, one should plug that hole and put rear brake line where the front one came off. Shinko 777HD has the same load rating at the Dunlop elites but that don't mean it would handle same way so yes, next set would be elites unless I find some high speed riders using the avons Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I had it up to 85mph last night and she felt good but somehow less stable up front than my other bikes. Gonna get some miles on her but I'm thinking now these shinkos might not be the best tire for this bike. For the price I would like them to be.. My other choice was the sons but I felt this shinko was a better rain tire. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Oh wow, this is an,old thread from last year. Since then I put on the new tires and that dramatically improved the highway ride over grooves. But at high speed, I had too much road snaking where if the front felt light, easy to upset, slow to dampen out... Felt like she might go into death wobble. I first noticed over 100mph but within months felt it at 70 mph. After the tires, I also fixed the class air pump. Yes I know how the antidive work and imagine they rob brake power but was worried they might be crudded up and make forks act different than each other... I'm sure a set of stainless lines will improve the brakes a goodly amount. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Whoops, I tightened up the neck bearing a little and it does seem better. But i still feel more than if like and tires makes sense! I got the shinko 777's because they looked good for rain (&I have shinko tourmasters on my xj550). The 777s are HD load rated but maybe just not right for this bike. Not too many people are running them. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I read somewhere that a mk2 or 2nd gen rear brake master will bolt onto a mk1.. True?? Else where can I get a rear brake master cylinder rebuild kit? My rear brake is soft and fluid leaking from the boot. The rear master cylinder piston was seized...and I took the piston out and cleaned but perhaps it needs s rebuild kit (hoping the master cylinder bore isn't gaulled) Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Why move the rear brake line to where the front was?? I delinked by pluggi,g the rear master where the fro t line was and then adding a second front line on the front master to source the left caliper. On the team master, I ditched the proportionong valve and put the rear line on that master cylinder port. Of think that when the rear master is actuated the pressure is same on either port. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Just installed the progressive springs and btw fork oil. I like it. Left the anti dives alone Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

On my '84, I delinked by running a second front line off the front master to the front left caliper and got the next bigger master. Plugged the rear master port that went to the front left and ditched the proportioning valve. Fronts are still a little soft and the rears got very "wooden" (hard). Gonna rebleed the fronts and my rear master is now leaking (ugh $70 rebuild kit). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

oh, well, I got that thing apart. soaked it in evaporust and tapped the piston in and it went down and then working it back it popped the washer right out. But I still need a rebuild kit for the other master cylinder.

Are there any links for rebuilding rear brake master cylinder and otherwise any place to buy a good aftermarket master cylinder or a rebuild kit? My back brake locked up and I found that the rear master wasn't pumping. (I could vacuum bleed but couldn't push fluid out with the pedal). Before I got this far, I cleaned the little holes under the supply line cap figuring the piston was holding pressure on the line. I could see here that the piston wasn't moving but odd the pedal was actuating the push rod...). so I found my old master cylinder and saw that piston was seized, and boy was it full of mud/crud. cleaned that out and removed the snap ring but can't get that split washer off to dissemble the piston from the cylinder. I got the spit water to rotate but can't pry it out.. Is it keyed to the piston?

I've never seen that item but would think the constant current draw would be speced. Side note, I've seen Ebay micro volt and amp meters that would be cool to run with aux lights if you're marginal (but probably won't measure milliamps well). My old Honda with aux hids was marginal as I watched a volunteer. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Oh Thanks on the other stuff too. I had a 17mm hex key on a 1/2" ratchet drive. I didn't change fork seals as I had no sign of leaking and didn't want to disturb the bear but cool stuff for next time.. Last time i did forkseals, I think I used an old seal and hammer tap around but I like the pvc idea. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks on that. I pulled one antidive for inspection and when it wasn't interesting, I left the other alone.. (Should have looked). I like your fork oil blend. My progressives came with same size spacers as I had in there. (About 1.25") and since they looked right on preload, I used them. Test ride later today Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

OK, just received my progressive springs and while I'm fiddling with that, I know I need to adjust the steering neck bearings.. I found something in the factory manual on adjusting neck bearings, but is there something better on here?? (or the other site?). And I read the tech library article on installing progressive springs and seems he cut the supplied PVC spacers down (just cut one in half), and used a factory washer to protect the PVC spacer against the spring end.. Have most others cut down the Progressive spacers just to make it easier to start the fork tube cap nut threads?? Any other pics on that protective washer?? Oh, and while I'm at it, my forks dive pretty dark easy now (just bought the bike last year and haven't touched the front end.). Now that might be because I'm real low on fork oil (and with bad fork seals but I'm not seeing seepage and they do seem to hold air), and because my front springs are just donefer (I have about 30k miles on the bike) but I'm also wondering about "cleaning out" the anti dive units.. figure while changing fork oil, I could pull them off but the factory manual says they are non serviceable.. Can I and should I take apart the mechanical antidives (my 1984)..

Interesting Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I don't see how an easy out could go deep enough into an Allen head unless you drill into the head and into the bolt shaft Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Is think dropping the fork tubes through the triple tree along with the rear lowering kit would reduce high speed stability (and maybe make it tip over in turns quicker). Worth a try as its reversible but I'm trying to address a high speed stability issue on my first gen so even tho I hate it at low speeds (say riding around a camp field), I wouldn't do it to mine.. Why not try a harley? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk