garyS-NJ

I just happened to "find" my '84 venture right about when I got old enough to care about dressers.. Yes, I knew about the vmax v4 so the venture at a steal was interesting (runs great now and I love it). So I don't know anything about the Suzi counterpart.. Any comments on how it compares?? At 1400 cc, it has more power than the '86 xvz13. There's one on Craig's near me. http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_gv1400_cavalcade_1986.php Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Not to jack the thread but yes on the second arm bushings.. Haven't yet got to checking that (I couldn't detect any slop with it on the centerstand but was meaning to post seeking the best way to check). & on the 777s vs the 230, they both have same load rating, but the 230 has higher speed rating.. Lower heat at speed, so I was thinking it might be softer compound to get traction around town and so would wear faster than the 777. Also the 777 looks like a better rain tire so those two thi,Gs combined i picked 777. Next up is the son but the 777 looks like better rain tire then the Avon. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yea camos, I'm hoping its the fork leak.. I haven't lubed the neck bearings but it feels nice any now without any play. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I didn't like all the buffering against the front of my big stock windshield ('84 venture) nor the excessive back pressure pushing my body toward so I trimmed mine down around 6 inches and im much happier now. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I like the shinko tourmasters on my little bike and I bought the shinko 777s for my '84 venture soon after I bought it.. I still have a high speed snake weave issue after twerking the neck bearings and changing fork springs to progressives. Unfortunately I then found one seal leaking so not yet sure why I have snake weave. As I recall irc was not the best tire I could get for the heavy bike at that price point (look at shinko else spend the money especially since you ride fast.) Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I had a carb set someone else worked on and he didn't install the little clips on the needle so the floats went up but didn't push the needle. Perhaps you have a piece of smootz in there which can be flushed.. Open the drain screw and drain fuel into a clear container looking for smootz. and then wash fuel through while tapping the carb body. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I thought the 83-85 venture carbs same and same jet kit.. Then the 86 1300 & Vmax had bigger carb bore & jets.. Someone check me. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Check me but I think with the wheel off the ground you bring the nut up as you turn the bars left and right and you bring it up to 37 ft lbs and stop. Then you back the nut off and bring it up to 2-3 ft lbs checking alignment of the lock nut Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

It was coming out the overflows. Float pun clips were not on the floats keeping the floats off the pins..whoops Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

That's the logical guess, but I had looked in the bowls and checked the floats moving and float pins free.. Someone else had the carbs apart and the bowls were clean so I didn't go further.. With the overflow hoses pulled, I observed some fuel at all four overflow tubes but not so much as I saw pouring on the floor. But then again, the line out on the pump wasn't leaking so there isn't much more. Drats! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Aha, it fired but was pouring fuel past the rear shock every time the fuel pump spins.. I left for the day but will be back soon. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I agree with dragonslayer. If you want an inexpensive touring bike then just buy one. And if you just. Want to breath life into this particular bike, then start with life and go minimal on the build.. I think they look cool long and low without the tail section Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes that's the part, thanks all, but my guy says he found it in the garage so I should be good to go. I ended up buying an e clip assortment off amazon Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I once tried standard o rings that looked very close in a xj550 carb set but I then had to buy o rings from the stealer at $5 each.. Can't remember if I had a metric assortment yet. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks all. Ordering bushings tonight. Maybe dust caps will check them again Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I replaced my fork springs and now got a seal leak (probably always leaked when full, got the bike last year....). so I bought all balls seals but now wondering if I should put in new bushings as I've have been hunting down a high speed snake weave issue.. How much play is acceptable and/or can I inspect the bushings for wear? or just replace.. I have 25k miles on the odometer. these are the P/N's I have for bushings (odd boats.com doesn't list/show the lower bushings): 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL,SLIDE 1 this is the top bushing that wears most. bottom bushing 3JJ-23171-00 Oh, and side note, when I put in the new progressive springs, I pulled out progressive springs with just the 1.5" PVC spacer, so that's all I installed, so I didn't have the oem 1" aluminum spacer. Memory fuzzy but is the sealing o-ring on the 17mm hex head plug or that 1" aluminum OEM spacer or both?? It hasn't been holding front air pressure since the spring replace (actually I just repaired the CLASS electronics and the Pump so I haven't really watched the front for leak down rate..

oddly enough, I replaced a pair of progressives springs with progressive springs.. Got the bike last year, didn't know what was up front but did know she dives when I hit the front brakes and I had a lot of snake weave at high speeds.. so I bought the progressives and went to install and found a white PVC spacer same as that provided with the progressives (about 1.5" long) and springs same length as my progressives.. the springs were also the same length and have the dense coiling on one end like my new progressives, but I'd swear the coiling spirals were opposite my new progressives (maybe the beers had something to do with this). So I installed my new progressives and the 1.5" PVC spacers provided with the springs. Note that the long spacers for stock springs were obviously not installed, and the stock 1 " aluminum spacer also not there...just springs, the 1.5" PVC spacer, and the 17mm hex plug cap. this provided me the Progressive recommended preload (one inch) but now I'm fuzzy and wondering, is there an o-ring on the 17mm hex plug cap, or is the sealing o-ring on that oem aluminum spacer (not clear on the parts fische). CAN ANYONE VERIFY THE SEALING O-RING oh, and as for low speed ride, I didn't notice a difference (not that good but OK) but that's because I had the same ride height springs/spacers in there.. I did notice however, that I get a lot of high speed snake weave as I increase air in the front forks (this is what I'm battling). fork dive got better with the progressives but, I think I need to adjust the antidives..

Holy smokes, are you sure? Seemed those flat brackets would hold each two carb bank (fore to aft) together and then the side brackets hold the left bank to the right. Parts fische on boats.com doesn't show the plates at all. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks but I don't need the cable holders, I need one of the flat rectangular plates. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Its not my bike. Not even a friends. In working for rent Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Awesome idea hobby shop. I need one bracket. Thought about fabbing it but I'm not getting paid for this job.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160902/2278e588ddb074842aac1647c3035380.jpg Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Whoops, that posted before I finished... Not the larger brackets that hold the left and right carb sets together but rather the smaller brackets that hold the front carbs to rear.... Seems I can't post a picture here from my gazillion dollar phone. I'm also missing the tiny circlips that hold. The choke rod in the linkage (linking left side to right side choke). And one of those tiny white plastic choke rod bushings is damaged.. These parts are not even shown in the boats.net exploded assembly diagram so I doubt I could get them from the stealer. Any other sources/ideas. I'm guessing the circlips are standard hardware... Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Working on an '86 and found the carbs were reassembled minus a one of the brackets that hold the carb sets together Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

There's a few links on testing tci's.. You can definitely test coil resistance and I think the hall effect sensors as well as the wiring from the Tci connector. Yes the Tci outputs are transistors which should read open. My Tci died where it would not advance the ignition. It wouldn't rev and I could see the timing mark just jitter but not advance. I tried resoldering & replacing diodes, then caps, then transistors. I also tested and swapped the vacume sensor. Replaced tci with Ignitek. And yes coils often fail open when hot. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk