garyS-NJ

Nope, don't have a link for that video but will email him.. Thanks! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks that pic reminds me the three screw that sock down the choke plunger housing.. I think the four carbs had to be separated to do that.. Will read up on rebuilds and think about that. And thanks yamagrl on that point about adjusting. They are all pulling out about the same amount (a lot), and close completely, so I think its a clogged passage or perhaps that enrichment diaphrams I recall... And pulling carbs, always a pain to get the cables on and off. Even slacked on adjustment still not long enough to make it easy. I've posted looking for a sequence/process without help. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I think i can loosen the finger set screw to allow the fingers to rock all the way back as the plungers pull out. Its just sucky getting a wrench or crows foot in there to hit the plunger nut and then once out I don't know where that circuit goes to spray it clean. Gotta dig up that carb diagram I printed from the other site). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I'm working on this '86 that runs good once warm but is hard to start and slow to warm as the cylinders come in.. It needs choke of course to start and warm but the choke does not appreciably raise the idle. I know this sounds like a plugged choke circuit but I've had the carbs off a few times (just never pulled the choke plungers as I thought I had to separate to individual carbs for that), so I'm checking everything else first.... I tried swapping in my ignetek ignition which didn't help. Seems warm or cold I'm losing 1 volt from my battery through ignition switch... And measured the coil primary and secondary windings and pick up resistance. Primary windings and pickups are in spec. Secondary's from +12v in through the spark plug cap were 23k ohm vs spec 10-15k ohm (was I supposed to remove spark plug caps for this measurement or does the spec take into consideration the cap resistance?). I recently trimmed back the plug wires and measured plug caps around 9k ohm. Can't see how all four coils could be temperature sensitive like that.. I have seen them intermittent open with temp, nor can I see plug caps intermittent like that but perhaps... So I ran it for a while with choke open and idle up burning fuel and strong sea foam and carb/injector cleaner mix. Then sent owner away telling him to be patient warming it and ride two tankfulls with strong sea foam (8 oz per tank). Back to coil secondary measurement? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Wow, no responses on this? Well I tried swapping in my ignetek ignition which didn't help. Seems warm or cold I'm losing 1 volt from my battery through ignition switch. And measured the coil primary and secondary windings and pick up resistance.primary windings and pickups in spec. Secondary's from +12v in through the spark plug gap were 23k ohm vs spec 10-15k ohm (was I supposed to remove spark plug caps for this measurement or does the spec take into consideration the cap resistance?). I recently trimmed back the plug wires and measured plug caps around 9k ohm. Can't see how all four coils could be temperature sensitive like that.. I have seen them intermittent open with temp, nor can I see plug caps intermittent like that but perhaps... So I ran it for a while with choke open and idle up burning fuel and strong sea foam and carb/injector cleaner mix. Then sent owner away telling him to be patient warming it and ride two tankfulls with strong sea foam (8 oz per tank). Back to my original question, can I remove choke plungers without pulling carbs? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

That's a fun video. I bet my girlfriend would like to watch it with me. Maybe we binge the whole series on a Saturday night. Anyway, gonna try swapping my ignetek for the Tci but if still no good, ill recheck my mixture settings. The video shows using a precision tach to set mixture. I only have the dash tach but wondering if I could use my 4 gauge vacuum sync to monitor. Then otherwise, I would have to look at choke circuit. Will I be able to remove the choke plungers without removing or splitting the carbs? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I synced them with my home made gauge set (just four gauges and four tubes) but scratching around for a real tester to verify). And then did mixture screws seat of the pants. Leaned the fronts out till rough then back 1/2 turn (like doing a lawn mower). Then made the rears 1/2 turn richer. Pretty crisp now when warm but a total ***** to get it warm. Very lumpy like two cylinders coming in and out for a long time before warm. My '84 comes off choke real fast.. Oooo, idea, maybe the Tci is sketchy until she gets warmed! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I cleaned the carbs on this 86 venture and synced carbs and adjusted mixtures but it starts very hard and the choke doesn't seem to do much to help. Unfirtunately, I didn't touch the choke plungers.. They are actuating. Can I take them out to clean and spray orifices without removing the carb set? They look accessible. Other option was to run a while with seafoam (I can get it running if I stay on the throttle). Yesterday warm it was running great and started right up Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

It does have a small exhaust leak at the rear right (#4?)head to pipe clamp but that leak has always been there. The popping (which is not loud ass backfiring from bad timing or igniting a bunch of fuel or either, but rather softer bulb bulb like a small amount of fuel burning) didn't start with the first level of muffler uncorking (I did a post I think about process, I cut off the reverse cone ends and progressively drilled the rear baffle plate and punched through inners) but came on with the final baffle holes (I was like oh ****). I have a bunch of miles and she seems to run ok without noticeable rich/lean on the plug color (ill recheck) but I never tried to sync the carbs nor have I played with the mixture screws. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I screw the mixture screw in all the way and mark a dot in line with the screw slot. Then I put a dot on my screw driver in line with the other dot and rotate counterclockwise 2 and 1/8 turns Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Finished some work and cleaned carbs on a stock '86 that's been sitting for a while. She really needs the airbox on sealed up to minimize pooping out carbs and let her rev. I think exhaust port temps could be closer.. Mixture needles set 2& 1/8 out. Gonna try syncing carbs. Anyone have a good link for syncing tips and otherwise method to best set idle mixture screws? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Last year I "opened up" the muffs on my '84 to get better sound and tone (I like loud pipes). I cut off the muffler tips and punch holes In the muffler (see pic). my carbs and airbox are stock with mixture screws set 2 & 1/8 turns out.. ). With the exhaust mod I did not rejet because I thought the intake would govern how it breathes.. However, with the exhaust mod, I got a noticeable muffler pop (sounds like unburnt fuel being ignighted in the collector) at idle and at low engine load cruising between 1500 and 2200 rpm. Letti g it idle warm for a while greatly minimizes it but a few wackos on the throttle bring a it back for a little bit and then riding up and down on throttle does it.. Sounds like unspent fuel being ignighted in pipes collector. Perhaps less scavenging with mufflers opened up.. Otherwise this appears to be a rich condition in the idle/intermediate circuit which I guess might be leaned out with the mixture screws, pilot jet, or a main jet needle shim but one would think that with the exhaust flowing more air, if anything it would be running more lean. Its not popping out the carbs and not leaking air at the intake). I do have a slight exhaust leak at one of the rear head connections. And I have an ignetek ignition with Gary's timing curve. Perhaps somewhere I'm getting a miss which ends up dumping an unburnt charge into the pipes... Thoughts? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/8656c72cffa654db30502445d97d24ee.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/eb481ef1fd1996878c6d09ae03a44fea.jpg Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I did just today but it doesn't look to help much to make the fan pull across radiator Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks! So I should zip tie it in or fabricate a shroud?? I would think many members are removing the yics and doing something for a shroud. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I didn't notice it exactly when I removed my yics box (yes I plugged the ports and it does generally run well).. But my '84 venture runs a little hot. 2 up on a very hot day in traffic it was very hot, near the hot line but still regular riding it runs between midway and the high temp warning mark. When I removed my yics, I also pulled this square thing (see pic) which I believe helps the fan pull air through the radiator. Without the yics box, I don't see how to easily reinstall the square thing. Thoughts?? Oh and I haven't checked exhaust ports to see if its running hotter than expected on one or more ports (will check but figured I would get some thoughts here asap) and my carbs and airbox are stock with mixture screws set 2 & 1/8 turns out.. Note that I did cut off the muffler tips and punch holes In the muffler (see pic). With the exhaust mod I did not rejet because I thought the intake would govern how it breathes.. However, with the exhaust mod, I got a noticeable muffler pop (sounds like unburnt fuel being ignighted in the collector) at idle and at low engine load cruising between 1500 and 2200 rpm. This appears to be a rich condition in the idle/intermediate circuit which I guess might be leaned out with the mixture screws or a main jet needle shim but one would think that with the exhaust flowing more air, if anything it would be running more lean. Its not popping out the carbs and I don't think leaking air but will check that too) http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/8656c72cffa654db30502445d97d24ee.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/eb481ef1fd1996878c6d09ae03a44fea.jpg Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The guy in the video said all bikes weave at some speed and rider mass combination. And he accurately addressed front end shimmy. And seems they did some good weave experiments and said pushing on the bars don't help anything.. Weave to me feels like riding on a bridge or in sand where stiff arm push would be disastrous.. And I had one bad rank slapper which is basically weave gone bad and assure you there was no pushing on those bars.. The video guy addressed the source of the problem from one standpoint and provided a remedy. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

On an old Harley I had a tank slapper at 70 and just rode it like I was riding a dirt bike in sand Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

wow Puc, good luck with that medical mechanics.. and my problem, I thought I followed up here, was the one needle plastic thingy tab not seated. took apart, reassembled and right on 1 17/32" long off the slider. She's running now and waiting for a new rear tire then I'm gonna sync the carbs and send her off.

Yes like getting adequate fuel and proper breathing. My makeshift fuel delivery found Ng and This '86 is way more sensitive than my '84 interns of having the airbox on and closed.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

My 84 weaved bad in turns at speed when,i got it... New tires and tweaked neck bearings made it much better. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Wow, I have a 78 cb750 and hit a palette at night on the highway coming around a turn doing 70mph. I pushed one bar hard and leaned to avoid it and when I realized I couldnt, I straighted up to hit it square and went airborne for about 150 feet and continue on. No wobble or weave. Btw, the video says. Don't try to push on the bars but rather just bring your weight low on the tank. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes, I was thinking about that dollar when I measured total needle length 50 mm, saw no extra clip grooves in the needle, and measured the needle after dropping it in. Still don't know how that little nub added up to all that difference. But she's running pretty good now and I'm gonna check carb sync today. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The needle plastic thing nub wasn't seated in the slider. All good now. Thanks again everyone! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Will do the oil too and maybe give her some fresh antifreeze. Funny the 2 brush starter is working fine now with the battery charged nice. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Got that girl running tonight. After seating the main jet needle, found my makeshift fuel supply wasn't giving enough fuel AND. The peacock had to be cocked between on and reserve. Also needed the airbox socked on and covered. Much more touchy on the intake than my '84.. Plugging the leaky tire and synching the carbs tomorrow and sending her out to play. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk