garyS-NJ

I've been riding a 1995 katana and really enjoy the sporty (and confidence inspiring) nature as compared to my '84 venture (which admittedly needs fork seals and still has original rear shock). But my gf says its too much work to ride on the katana. So I'm considering sportier touring options (my venture isn't so much for touring but rather for cold weather, long trips with gear, two up,... Otherwise I have other bikes) and thinking about a 2000 ish BMW r1100rt. Comments? http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2000models/2000models-BMW-R1100RT.htm Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes, of course the muffs held up well. I was riding yesterday. But since the muffler mod and concurrent with noticing an exhaust leak at #4 at the head ex port, I now have some popping (mostly when it's cold) at idle and low load cruise. I have the mix screws set at 2 and 1/8 turns out so I'm going to set them to 2 and 1/4 out then sync the carbs,. those Road King Muffs are still for sale!

From what I remember looking at the Tci traces and ohming it out, i think the diodes are there to protect the output transistors. Almost all my diodes had corroded to pieces yet my Tci still fired on all cylinders (it just didn't advance and I don't know why).. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

So you got it in case your old Tci took a crap and never needed it?.. My Tci would not advance my timing and so all the diodes, and caps, and even driver transistors (I think one went toast during all that) would not fix it. I assume you just replaced your diodes? A friend of mine was also having a time fixing his and ended up buying a parts bike for the Tci.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Dingy was very helpful after selling me one.. (I guess one of his last). I bought a programming connector with plans to experiment with the map but have not yet got around to it.. The bike just goes vrooom. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I checked eBay for a while and only heard of one I think that I missed which went around $70. So no, they haven't gone down and everyone wants one! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I had a locksmith make key with my broken oem key which has code. They could probably copy any working key or make one from the lock because my locksmith has done that also for me Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The copper wires oxidize green and yes that's a great point because conduction is on the surface and oxidation wouldn't conduct like clean copper. Over time oxidation does have a way of creeping up an insulated wire but the wire resistance is way low compared to the secondary winding. I wonder if a wire could oxidize that bad... The connection to plug cap definitely goes bad. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I would think with 2 & 1/8 to 2 & 1/4 turns on mixture screws and a bench sync and cleaned carbs with fluttery sliders and no vacuum leaks and a good supply of clean fuel (feed the carbs direct for now) & no water in the bowls (drain periodically to make. Sure no float stick and clean fuel in carbs until you are sure) that your problem is spark. Put a known good ignition in there and test the resistance of primary, secondary, and pick ups. And clean reseat the connector going to the pickups. And get a new set of plugs in there and measure resistance in the plug caps else replace them.. I don't think the coil wires go bad but the plug caps do. Did the bike die when you lost the gauges? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The master series CT silver prime has aluminum in it. I just painted a radiator with some aluminum paint and it Definately has a way of costing anything. Master series says the aluminum fills the pits but I wonder if sacrifices to the steel to passivate. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

spoke with Rustoleum tech support today and deceided against their rust reformer because that is just for rusted metal (and I would be going over some clean sanded metal as well as existing paint). Their tech support said the rust reformer only sticks to rust.. I would have liked to use Master Series CT Silver prime or Por-15 to spot paint the rust but settled on the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.. will see.

Thanks all! Ill call them tomorrow, turns out I decided not to shoot today and wait for warmer weather after the rain. I masked and spraying outside on my cycle shell platform but before and after spraying, I have the cycle shell closed with heaters on to preheat the metal and then cure the paint. Not sure what temps I got when I shot the motor bc I couldn't find my thermometer but ill get one for the frame paint.. And I read the can for the rust reformer and engine enamel. Neither addressed prime or recommended Top coat times (other than let the reformer cure for 24 hrs). My motor paint didn't wrinkle but I got retarded and mistakenly shot the vht engine paint instead of the but prime. Luckily the engine had decent paint and seems it coated well. Will know when she fires and gets some exposure. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Not on my Venture but hey: I am repainting my '79 gs1000 frame because it is scratched and rusty in some areas. I didn't remove the motor so my only option to address the rust is brush/scrape as much as possible then spot treatments and finally prime & paint. I decided to use Rustoleum Rust reformer figuring I could spray it on and "top coat" with Rustoleum black engine Enamel. I masked everything except the frame and since there were lots of rusty areas, I figured I would shoot the whole frame as best as I can hit it. I'm working in a heated shelter outside in the winter so I'm not sure how warm I can get the frame. Has anyone used the Rustoleum Rust Reformer? I understand I should only use the rust reformer on the rusty spots but then I'm wondering what prime to use over the rust reformer and the rest of the frame before topcoat.. Also, the rust reformer says let dry 24hrs at 70F and I won't be at 70F but is that to touch, handle, use, or topcoat with primer??

I don't think the one brakes can stop a venture as fast as they can be stopped. Maybe about as fast as they can be safely stopped by a typical rider but more pad area and pinch power, especially on the fronts would stop one faster.. Isn't that why so many people do the r1 r6 caliper upgrade? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Brakes shouldn't drag you down to 25mpg. I thought you had earlier bike so no on the antidives. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

And don't forget a good bleed with your antidives Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

It can't hurt that much to clean out calipers but it is work and I wouldn't do it if a good bleed and good ride didn't clear things up. And then id want to identify the specific caliper that's dragging. Which brake master feels "hard", front or rear? Just delinking can do that to the rears. So after riding, on center stand, which wheel is dragging? With a $15 temperature gun, which caliper is hot? Check your master cylinder return holes are clear. And first gen with linked brakes and no bleeder at the fork neck is notoriously hard to bleed hence your squishy brakes? And delinking without a rear caliper swap will lead to a wooden rear brake feel due to mismatch in the master now only driving one caliper.. How did you do the delink? And after some research, I bought the ebc hh pads for my fronts but aren't installing till I do fork seals. First I heard here about them eating rotors as I thought the oem pads were same semimetallic. And does the r6 caliper upgrade command a front master cylinder change? I installed the slightly larger 2nd gen master when I delinked and fronts are still soft (& so rears just skid and my bike don't stop well enough, oem brakes on these are nfg for 1000 lbs rolling). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Do it circumferentially? Nice word. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I've pushed out Caliper pistols for cleaning the pistons and spraying out the caliper body.. Without buying new pistons or seals. You have to do one piston at a time in order to maintain fluid pressure to get the others out. But as long as the pistons aren't jammed up in there then an air compressor line blowing on the fluid in line should push the pucks out. You should be able to remove the pads and partially push out pucks to inspect them. I've even polished pucks in the calipers with them pushed out like this Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Look for an air leak. Verify your mix screws 2 & 1/2 turns out. Check spark on all four cylinders. Suspect carb cleaning, did you do it or a qualified mechanic? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Wow, I have a Honda cb750f3 but apart for top end. Loved that bike, and it was very sure footed and predictable. My '84 xvz12 is a slob and I suspect because one bad fork seal and that scrappy oem fork brace. I was thinking about getting one machined out of titanium or magnesium if I could find the material... Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks Earl! You rock. That '86 cold start didn't get any better with my ignetek and then before pulling the carbs (everytime, and its been a few, I've had difficulty reinstalling the cables), I started looking for a temp sensitive ignition problem. I've had coils and pickups open (on other bikes) with temperature. The primary windings and pickups measured ok but the coil secondaries from power in at the Tci connector through to the plug caps measured avg 23k ohms on all four. About 10k high on all and I can't believe my meter (& can't imagine a failure mode on all four coils). Gonna try another meter. I sent the guy away with the bike (scratching my head) asking him to ride two tankfuls with strong sea foam hoping the choke paths might clear. Will reset his mixtures and recheck his sync but can't see that effecting his cold start much (I had started at 2 &1/8 turns out). But I am going to check sync and mixture on my '84 xvz 12 (& two '70's Suzi gs bikes I just bought). Btw, what range of exhaust temps on the port should I see?. Thanks again! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

So the wire and coil should total no more than 5k ohm. I'm thinking the coil is most of that 5 k ohm. I'm going to try another meter and test through the plug wires to the Tci connector as it isn't easy to access the coils with fairing on bike. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I didn't have the ignition on to check resistance. Good idea on checking the meter. But the to check the secondaries, are you suggesting to take the plug wires off the could? Would be much more work to access the coils and pull the wires off but I could take the plug caps off... Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I emailed him but wouldn't buy the video. There's a pretty good tutorial on Venturers.com Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk