garyS-NJ

Keep us posted because I'm pulling my tci today and gonna try to refurb it.

The tuna came and went. I didn't come home with a boatload nor have the time to check out shipping or where to find dry ice. so I have to take the YICS chamber out and the black plastic head cover and should be able to get a short stubby screwdriver in there pointing up to hit the pressure sensor and TCI mount screws?? maybe try again tomorrow. I'm going to check the pick up resistances and spark plug cap resistances tonight. and put the airbox on one more time because folks keep saying that.. but I can't believe that could make so much a difference and it's been popping out the carbs with the airbox on and off since I started working on it../

I'm pretty sure this bike ran at some time. The timing can't be off unless the rotor slipped or the tci is humped. and it does idle and on the timing marks so the timing is on. the PO seemed straight up and said it used to run and then he lost the clutch (leaky slave) and perhaps the carbs got gunked up from sitting. I went through the carbs. and yes, I checked timing through inspection hole. it just bounces around but doesn't advance. and the tack is sometimes erratic dropping out completely and otherwise it won't rev up (even turning throttle up slowly) past 2500 rpm without backfiring fire out the carbs. I've had the airbox on after doing the carbs (I think) and that didn't help. Guess since I'm locked up with this TCI (can't get it out yet, seems I have to pull the right and left fairings), I'll put the airbox in and try it buttoned up. I have to make some progress today just to rule that out.

thanks Kevin, your pic looks like a newer bike, maybe because of the new fuse holders. I have my airbox out but can only see one TCI tab on the right side. I might be able to get a sawzall in there but there is another tab on the front or left side of the TCI which I don't see.

hey don vito - how would one saw off the tabs of the TCI?? Looking into my battery box, I don't see the TCI

thanks all. I screwed my spark plug caps into the wires but didn;t thing to meter the actual caps themselves. and I'll try to measure the pickups at the TCI connector.. ((my manual doesn't identify the colors but I assume its the smaller connector on the TCI and it's each wire with respect to a black ground). And I head there is a 5 pin connector between the TCI and pickups which could present high resistance. anyone know where that is?? I guess I should pull the plate to expose the pickups but I figured they either worked or did not work when they open.. then it's into the TCI.. anyone know how to remove it?? looks like I need to pull my side fairings.. and hwo to remove them?? my factory manual generally sucks. any recommendations on manuals? I see a Clymer on ebay and a CD from TechSpark.

thanks Both! anyone know how to get my TCI out?? looks like I need to remove the side fairings to hit the battery box mount.. My electronic factory manual is crap. any suggestions ona manual? Clymer or ebay CD from TechSpark?

oh and I already went through the carbs and fuel.

good input randy on the pressure sensor. I figured it just drops the advance when vacuum drops rather than causing the engine to advance with rpm. My ebay replacement pressure sensor is also 2.3v at 1atm but only goes to 0.8V at 26 inches HG. My old pressure sensor went to 1V at 26 inch HG. the manual says it should go to 0.5V.

I'm having the same problem and see in my timing inspection port that my timing isn't advancing.. But my bike backfires out carbs when I give it throttle. If your bike just dies with throttle or needs choke then I'd say fuel.. did you try giving fuel straight to the carb set with a funnel?? take the pump and filter out of the equation..

just the sliders were a little gunked up. So are there any connectors between the 40 amp fused red wire and the ignition switch and back to the brown wires at the fuse panel? (I jumpered 12VDC to the ignition fuse so I know it's not that but I want to find that drop anyway). And what about the ignition pick ups and the TCI, is there a connector between them?? This could be the problem with my TCI not advancing the spark but I highly doubt it as I had an ignition pick up coil go on my other bike and it just stopped sparking on those cylinders). I really think the TCI is bad now but I've been wrong before..

I'm bringing a xvz12 back to life and the timing wont advance as evidenced through the timing inspection hole (I'm getting backfire through the carbs when I rev it.). looks like I narrowed it down to the TCI (already replaced the pressure sensor and I checked connections at the TCI and fuse box.). does anyone have a spare TCI for me to test and possibly purchase? (if I plug it in and it works, I'll remove my TCI and try to fix it.. looks like a pain to remove (the battery box removal needs to be attacked by removing the side fairings?>?

did I need to get that voltage to both brown wires? I just connected it to the r/W wire going to the ignition (?TCI)>

I jumpered battery 12vdc off the 40 amp main fuse to the R/W ignition wire and that didn't help. My sliders seemed a little sticky so I cleaned and lubed them again.. I have done that before and tapped one slider together to lock the diaphragm to the slider but on this disassembly, I found them sticky and the sliders gunked up. I suspect something I lubed them with attacked the black plastic sliders.. this time I lubed them with engine fogging oil. the one I tapped together and glued (#3) was secure. and number 4 was secure. but the diaphragms for #1 & 2 could be rotated by hand (tight but not totally secure). I tapped them together but it didn't make a difference (still rotated a little), so I reassembled and it did the same thing. before the sliders, I pulled the connectors off the TCI and cleaned them but with all this, I still had the popping when I rev it. It must be the TCI not advancing the spark. does anyone have a spare TCI for me to test and possibly purchase? (if I plug it in and it works, I'll remove my TCI and try to fix it.. looks like a pain to remove (the battery box removal needs to be attacked by removing the side fairings?>?

I'm bringing an '84 XVZ12 back to life. got the engine unsiezed and it's idling but wont rev past 2500RPM. I went through fuel and spark and cleaned carbs (it was sitting and they were gunky) but I'm seeing the ignition isn't advancing. I replaced the pressure sensor but still not advancing and I see a 1Volt drop between the battery and the ignition switch output (brown wire) to the ignition fuse. From the schematic seems it would be the ignition switch or the connectors. I read somewhere in here that the ignition switchs tend to go bad from excessive current and this can be helped by adding a relay that is switched by the ignition switch... But just to get me going, any ideas on locating the ignition switch connector??

Oh, and I did replace the pressure sensor with an ebay used part and this part goes to 0.8V at 26 in HG vacuum. And with both sensors, I tried jumpering the sensor supply voltage to the + batter to get full voltage and that made no difference in the signal output voltage,,.

my '84 xvz12 won't rev past 2500rpm and the timing isn't advancing. It backfires out the carbs. (this bike was sitting for a while and dead when I bought it). I tested the vacuum sensor and it was 2.3v at standstill but wouldn't go below 1V with up to 26in HG vacuum. One interesting thing was the voltage source to the sensor was 2V lower than my battery (which was only about 12V running). I replaced the pressure sensor with an ebay used part and this part will only go to 0.8V at 26 in HG vacuum. (supposed to go to 0.5V). I've been working on clearing this problem for a little while (already did plugs and fuel and carb cleaning) and during that I have tried the bike with a good battery and it was backfiring the same when reving it. It idles very smoothly. I'll try it today with my truck battery (since I haven't tried it with a good battery since the carb cleaning) but suspect I'll find the same thing and that my problem is electrical with the timing advance and TCI and that low pressure sensor voltage.. does anyone know where that connector is between the pick up coils and the TCI?

I know this isn an old thread and I'll post elsewhere. but my '84 xvz12 won't rev past 2500rpm and the timing isn't advancing. It backfires out the carbs. (this bike was sitting for a while and dead when I bought it). I tested the vacuum sensor and it was 2.3v at standstill but wouldn't go below 1V with up to 26in HG vacuum. One interesting thing was the voltage source to the sensor was 2V lower than my battery (which was only about 12V running). I've been working on clearing this problem for a little while (already did plugs and fuel and carb cleaning) and during that I have tried the bike with a good battery and it was backfiring the same when reving it. It idles very smoothly. I'll try it today with my truck battery (since I haven't tried it with a good battery since the carb cleaning) but suspect I'll find the same thing and that my problem is electrical with the timing advance and TCI and that low pressure sensor voltage.. does anyone know where that connector is between the pick up coils and the TCI?

locksmith told me to spray it with penetrating oil and then take the hinges off if I give up. Yamagrl, you mean with no key, just insert a screwdriver into the keyhold and turn clockwise 90degrees? that seems to be breaking the lock but I guess if the tumblers are stuck up it would work.

thanks dave and doug, yes, the labels are there and the fits all the way into the lock. The key also fits the ignition and I used it to remove the side bags and trunk and open the trunk so I'm pretty sure it's the right key. But this is a reproduction key made from the numbers on an original key. NTL. the key goes in and out in the set and 9 0clock lock position but will not rotate all the way to the right to the 3 oclock unlock position. and yes, I tried rotating the key while squeezing the bag closed and prying it a little open as well as banging it from the side. rethinking, I feel the key just isn't doing the trick as the key will rotate all the way to the 3 oclock unlock position at the lock which attaches the bag to the bike. And since I used all kinds of lubricants in the lock, I'm going to bring the key and the bags to the same locksmith as they should be good and they are reasonable... bike isn't running yet so I let the bags to the side..

I had a hard time getting the bags and trunk off the '84 venture royale I bought. lots of lube and coaxing latches. tough to get the trunk open. Just can't get the side bags open. The lock seems to turn, (maybe not all the way) but I suspect the latch is not retracting just like the latches holding bags to bike. I tried different types of creeping oil into the lick and along the edge of the bag with the bag oriented different ways to aid the oil into finding the latch. any ideas?

I'm still trying to get my bike running.. I bought it recently with a seized engine after it sat a while.. I got it idling but it would not rev without bogging and popping out the carbs. after a new set of spark plugs and doing the Pea shooter and the Shotgun, and finally removing and cleaning the carbs (I did find a lot of crud in the bowls and clogged jets in the jet blocks), it still will not rev without blowing fire out the carbs (running without the airbox, I'll try it with the airbox but I'm sure it's something else as it's just too bad). It does run better but still seems like the timing isn't advancing.. So now I'm wondering about the TCI or the Pressure Sensor that rules the timing advance in the TCI. any thoughts? I've already checked compression and leakdown so I don't think it's valve lash.

I used a spark plug socket to tap the metal sleeve into the sliders which pinches the diaphragm between the plastic washers. This seemed to work but reving the bike I saw one slider stop moving... I pulled that slider and found that it worked itself loose again. So then I pried it apart a little and dabbed contact cement between the metal sleeve and the plastic slider (inside the slider) and then tapped the sleeve into the slider to pinch the diaphragm and let the adhesive set up. The bike still wouldn't rev without popping out the carbs so I suspect the Pressure sensor which is used for the TCI ignition timing... I'll look at the other sliders and also try it with the airbox on but I don't think this is the problem.

found it here: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001010&id=88

good point on the acid based silicone. I'm thinking a forma gasket silicone. but then tapping that inner sleeve in to grab the diaphragm? My question here seems very generic to almost all old BDS-34's. Yes, I have the tab on the outter edge of the diaphragm that keys to the carb body. but if the slider can rotate with respect to the diaphragm, then it can spin and loose its orientation with the carb body (there's a hole on the bottom of the slider that's supposed to stay there). Also, if it can rotate so freely, then it's unlikely to hold the right vacuum.