garyS-NJ

My little tool worked well. First front caliper I just cleaned one piston at a time (with them almost all the way out). The second front caliper one piston popped out so I cleaned both that way and left the seals alone (little scrubby pad clean). Bled both fronts but with new brake pads the front right (hand brake) was still a little soft.

Thanks gary.. I found them on amazon for $12/pair. All the sb8125L. Are the L's too long for brakes or too short for the clutch??

Greg_in_london can you say which front brake master cylinders I could swap in?? Types of bikes year male models.... I notice mine also has a fluid level sensor.

Hey Kevin, that Link isn't working for me.. I'll search but can you help?

Syscrusher, do you know the correct thread to order my speedbleeders??

Just tried to upload a pic from my computer again and I get same message "message from webpage: upload of file failed". last night my gf tried it on her mac and also tried it opening venture rider.org with safari.. both times same message.. then she did it with the upload URL tab. Clive can you try to upload a pic from your computer (say maybe a hot ex girlfriend or maybe a big fish or motorcycle??)>

gary, your saved message count is full so I can't send you a message.

Good stuff great white. Thanks.

Hey btw, my gf just posted above pics using a website to generate a link for the picture because the forum upload tool wasn't working.. am I missing something? ?

Linked brakes and anti dive connection are two issues. I'll try again to take a look at Kevin's link above for delinking (not opening on my phone now) but when removing the brake line from rear pedal to front wheel is there hardware to be Frankenstein ed on? Also the antidive, is it good to keep with the delinking brakes? I guess it just takes the sudden surge of brake pressure and smooths it out.

I'd have to think the map would be better because when you wack the throttle open, the vacuum drops and at that point you don't want full advance (until the rpms spin up ). A tps would need a mass airflow sensor.

My '84 xvz12D was sitting for a while before I bought it and all the calipers have one or two seized pistons. So trying to remove these opposing pistons and having a bear of a time. The manual says to use air to blow out one piston while clamping the other and then to rebuild that side and re-install and then hold the cleaned piston and blow out the other.. Rather than clamp the piston it said to use a "piece of wood" to block it. Well I went on youtube and found nothing on removing opposing pistons so I made a block out of 1/4" right angle aluminum. Going to try it tomorrow but at best I will only be able to do one piston at a time. Seems silly as I'd rather remove both pistons.. Is the trick just to get them both pretty far out by holding the stuck one and using smaller and smaller separating shims (I was using a cement trowel) and then at last moment hitting it with air? I suppose this would get one piston out and then I would need to use my piston inside grabber tool to twist and pry the second piston.... who has done this before?> I think Skydoc is doing it as a service.. oh crap. my jpg file attachments are failing to upload.. any recommendations here? files only 3-4000KB

done deal, I'm going to split the front and rear brakes because I wouldn't want to worry about gravel or riding in a grass field.. and I might want to do wheel stands. I also read that it will greatly simplify bleeding the brakes. And I wouldn';t want one master cylinder locking up both wheels.. one time I had a bad rear caliper or cylinder and I just pulled that caliper on the road to get home.. and any comments on taking off the anti dive?

Good, I hope it's a Stay. I don't need no stinkin lower fairings..

I haven't ridden my new old '84 xvz12D yet but read somewhere that the braking can be improved by splitting the front/rear brakes (re-plumb so the lever controls both front discs and the foot only controls the rear wheel) and also removing antidive connection on the front calipers.. comments or links??

I know this is an old thread but I want to come back to it for reference and will try to follow it with this non value added post I'm making..

whoops, just read the manual/ god damm wealth of information in there is one takes the time to actually read. But it says to replace the piston, piston seal, and the dust boot as an assembly. what! Well I see on ebay kits with the seals for $23-30 PER CALIPER. Is that the best I'm doing and is there a good brand to use? (Brake crafter or K&L on ebay). Oh, and from Yamaha it's $40/caliper..

This link isn't working for me. I've done single piston calipers before but with these dual piston calipers I was wondering if the caliper needs to be split in half// Earls ad isn't opening for me either..

My '84 xvz12D is leaking oil right around the side stand also and it smokes for a while until good and warmed up. Seems the leaking oil is puddling on the exhaust collector (and burns off of there). So I can't see where the oil is leaking from. Is there any pics on here or can you folks tell me what to remove to identify the leak source?

When I bought my last set of skins I was reading about tires and recall you shouldn't mix bias with radials. also noted that most reviews of new tires were "biased" a little because people are trying a set of new tires and comparing to their old tires (that's not like comparing a new set from one manufacturer against a new set from another mfr).

How much was the seat work

Thanks lonestar. Gary also offered his cell. Getting a deka battery tomorrow and still need to get through brakes and a leaky clutch then a tad of cleanups ..electrical and fuel connections.

Sorry Gary for what sounded like an attack. I agree that you have been very active and helpful here. Forums are all about sharing knowledge. Your price was very fair as I couldn't buy the unit from Ignetech plus a MAP sensor myself for much less. I assumed I was getting all your experience with the unit tweeked for your best flavor of timing for the venture 1200 and the ad seemed to note just extra features (like coil overs, and rev limiter, shutoffs...). I thought it was optimized and my fault I hadn't read or heard anything about a TPS instead, or the vacuum buffer, or MAP voltages, or dwell setting.. I still haven't been able to open the CD but no real biggie as I'm sure it will run fine as is and then I'll just tweek it all up hopefully adding to the knowledgebase. good stuff here.