garyS-NJ

I have access to an '87 VR1300 parts bike.. I'm grabbing the rear master cylinder and took the calipers (will I use them?).. Taking the mufflers to try a modification (improve flow). took some misc electrical stuff. Owner just took the TCI and wants carbs.. while I'm at it, is there anything else on an '84 XVZ12D that should be upgraded to the '87 or any of the '87 parts I should stockpile?

I have access to '87 wheels, front end, swingarm... The front tire on the parts bike looks great and my front is donefer.. Was wondering if I could swap the whole front wheel (bike isn't near me but my recollection is it had larger brake discs..).. If so are discs same pattern? Spacers? And then If I wanted to use the front calipers, I guess I need to swap the lower legs (just take the tubes and all?).. For the rear caliper, can I just take the caliper mounting bracket? Wait, any sense to replacing my '84 calipers with '87 calipers? And what about the rear wheel? Can I just swap that too>?? I'd like to leave this bike as a rolling frame at least until I take it to strip/junk/sell/give/trade,... while we are at it, is there anything else on an '84 XVZ12D that should be upgraded to the '87 or any of the '87 parts I should stockpile?

I don't have JIS screwdrivers and yet I manage to not bugger most stuff.. so the harbor freights will fit but I don't think they are JIS (or will last too long). the worst thing about cheap Phillips screwdrivers is the blades brake and then immediately bugger the screw head.

sounds like interesting work with the purposed micro-p and the fet ignition.. I only found one aftermarket ignition for these bikes (Ignetech) and I'm in the tweeking stage (crappy throttle response.. but could be carbs).. A good system monitor would be gold for setting up this ignition.. Modern car and truck ignitions work with sensors to do great stuff (cover up all sorts of problems). I'm also looking to get my stock '84XVZ12D breathing better but need to work on throttle response before touching intake and exhaust.. I'd like to take it in steps by changing the stock mufflers to low restriction and a hot intake filter without rejetting.. If I need to rejet for that then I would rejet for with fishtail pipes and IDK on the air filter.. this link and the XJ4ever forum helped me figure out why my XJ 550 was sometimes not quick to idle down (I think it was a choke circuit issue, but I forget). I cleaned carbs (they were clean from regular riding) and rejetted (for pods and open collector) and the bike runs great and idles back down..first shot (and only did a gross bench sync). http://www.factorypro.com/

Dressing up or down to ride your bike or go to an event is kinda like being a woman. Women wear all kinds of outfits to make a fashion statement. I do have biker friends that look a little like pirates but they always dress the same. And me I just dress for the weather. Although when I'm going out I won't wear greasy car/bike work jeans or even painting clothes. And if I'm going to a wedding or funeral I wear nice jeans and boots and a nice shirt. Truth is tho that you can never be overdressed and people watching is fun so pirate bikers are way cool with me.

Thanks rick. No I never synced them. Tried three places for vacuum restrictions yesterday so I can run 4 gauges on it.

Gonna check the vacuum sync.

I don't think carbs because I went through the diaphrams and had the carbs off and split into two and cleaned the jets and jet blocks. I'm pretty sure it's the ignition as I recall when I changed from points to an electronic ignition on my cb750F that bike had a different characteristic.. It started easier and lost some throttle response. I'm wondering if the map sensor from gary is working right or if I just need to tweek the ignition curves. It' Is slow to rev up and slow to idle back down (rpms stay high while changing gears. I checked the throttle linkage ok (cable pull it open and shuts completely. Also the change in choke has me scratching my head. I can't warm the bike on the normal choke detents. Just needs a lot less choke. I see I can't adjust the choke cable either.. I'm going to try to get the software today (read the CD at the library and load onto a stick).Also wondering if OEM idle advance is 5 degree BTDC then why start the igneteck at 10 degrees (maybe that's why it races with the choke when I'm warming). I'm also wondering if the dwell setting has something to do with it.. What does the dwell auto setting do and does anyone know the stock dwell?? I really need to ride someone's stock venture to calibrate my butt. Perhaps I'm used to whacking the throttle on my open intake/exhaust XJ550 and CB750 and the venture is just more docile..?

I'm just rereading all of this to digest and noticed you wrote that the longer canister created too much lag in opening throttle response because the MAP is not getting the change in vacuum pressure quickly enough.. Well I have no canister. I'm just running the hose you supplied with the map and connecting to my port 2 vacume restrictor.. My throttle is very slow to opening throttle and also slow to closing the throttle (the rpms stay high when I shift gears). could I have a bad TCI or map sensor..?? Or is my OEM restrictor too restrictive?? I'm just getting ready to make a dingy can but reading here it does something for the idle as a compromise to throttle response..

so the Dingy Can is only for idle?? My Idle isn't like a swiss watch but what does the idle do with and without the can? And how does smoothing out map voltages affect the engine performance?? (Just smooths a lope out of the idle or a problem with idle rpm's wandering??). And as far as setting up a dingy can, might it be best to run four restrictors into the 5 way coupler, or one restrictor between couple and can or one between can and the map??? If only one restrictor does it then I can use my single OEM restrictor. Big picture those is I'm chasing a problem with throttle response. the bike with the ignetech is now very sluggish to rev up and also revs back down very slow/

whoa, another goodie I forgot to close here.. My binding rear caliper was not due to piston/pressure but rather orientation of the caliper itself on the rotor.. first I bled it a few squirts but that didn't help so I figured the piston was stuck and when I loosened the caliper bolts, the wheel spun freely.. tighten the bolts, the wheel wouldn't spin.. somehow the caliper was binding because it's not aligned with the rotor.. then I guessed that the washers on the shouldered caliper bolts (only one set of bolts had washers so I put them on the back) might belong between the caliper and the mounting bracket. well one fit there toward the rear but not on the front (looled like I might fit 1/2 the thickness). but I bolted it up that way and it spun fine last night and didn't get hot enough to bind the caliper.. Oh, and the rotor is spinning true with respect to the caliper.. GOD!

thanks great white.. so the 14mm might do two calipers and the 16mm most definitely will do?? I'm going for the brake line today.. gonna just run one more line from MC to the right caliper.. I don't see the logic to buying three lines and a splitter (even though I have a Honda splitter downstairs..).

Is that '86+ master cylinder a 14mm bore (and my '84 linked is a 12mm?)?? I have a line on an '87 master cylinder but ebay has aftermarket MC's at 17MM (pot metal square resevoirs and also the round plastic reservoir).. But then I wonder if I could get a rebuild kit for them.. I also read somewhere the 90's virago master cylinders are good and I remember working on my old CB750 people were upgrading with a Goldwing master cylinder.. .

Just got another honking pressure bleed with my gf pumping the rear brake pedal and got pure fluid coming out the front left caliper... brakes felt a little squishy but good enough (did the back caliper again for good measure). put it on the center stand to see the rear wheel would spin free and brake but observed that the rear caliper was pretty much locked up.. Pumped a few more squirts out the rear caliper thinking the resevour might be overfiulled but the caliper was still frozen so I suspect the relief/return hole in the rear master cylinder (or is that the proportioning valve?) is clogged. try that tomorrow.. but can anyone say if I then will need to bleed the entire unified brake system or just the rear or the front.. also, I understand a proportioning valve adjusting pressure split between front and rear but then what does the metering valve do?? If I plug the proportioning valve and change the front master cylinder and brake lines through a 1:2 splitter, then the metering valve is gone.

thanks great white,, good point on the master cylinder angle for handlebars.. But I just found an '87 virago 750 parts bike no title and thinking of buying that just for the master cylinder and brake lines (mast cylinder will probably be humped). Then I'd part the bike (and Frankenstein whatever to where ever... I also have an 83 xj550.).

or could I buy this (17mm bore?) and just get the long brake line?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-7-8-UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-BRAKE-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-LEVER-RESERVOIR-/301729570136?hash=item46407bdd58&vxp=mtr how about rebuild parts for these aftermarket master cylinders?? are the parts available?

thanks Jeff, can you help with specs on the brake line? or a replacement front master cylinder?? I just found an '87 virago 750 complete bike for parts.. Might I be able to Frankenstein that?? found an ebay virago master cylinder new says it is 14mm bore and 10X1.25 banjo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XJ700-XJ750-XS750-Maxim-Virago-Vstar-RD-Brake-Master-Cylinder-BLACK-/290906486570?hash=item43bb60b72a&vxp=mtr

Oh, and I did pop around this sight but didn't see anything about how to bleed the linked system. There was reverse bleeding, and also speed bleeders, and even one guys added a neck bleeder to a first gen. But nothing on a process to bleed a first gen. I did front brake, and then rear brake and tried to do front brake again.. Oh, Oh, and my bleeders were not mistakenly left open nor did I run the resevour dry..

I know there are a bunch of threads on delinking gen1 brakes but I think I read them all and failed to find all details to do it on the cheap.. backing up, I bought an '84 xvz12D that sat and the calipers were skootched up. So I cleaned the caliper pistons but having trouble bleeding the unified brake. Oh hell, the front brake feels spongy too.. For the unified brake, I bled the front left caliper by pushing fluid through with the pedal and then I cleaned the rear caliper pistons and tried to bleed the rear.. Using a miti-vac, I pulled pure fluid (no bubbles through the rear caliper but the pedal was still soft). So I went back to the front caliper and it just keeps pulling air through (with the mitivac) like there is an air leak at the metering valve or a line... I mean it was just pumping and bubbles for 20 minutes without hardly adding any fluid to the rear resivour>> I know Earl Skydoc sells a braided kit to delink but I just want to get this old girl on the road to see if I like her to keep.. So I read I could delink by plugging the proportioning valve (to front brake), and then add a second brake line to the front master cylinder and routing to the front left caliper.. I'm wondering if an oem brake line for the front right caliper will reach to the left otherwise how do I find/specify a used or new line? (type of bike or Length and banjo sizing). Oh yes, and I know there is debate as to weather the stock 14mm front brake cyclinder can push two front calipers or if I need a 16mm master cylinder.. Source for that?? below rider did a nice job but no details on how to specify the lines and also if the fairing needs to come off to do the couple mount.. I'd rather not pull the fairing.. Never did it, and I told my brother I'd be riding this summer! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?49112-De-Linking-Gen-1-Brakes

Was it fully warm when it died (so should be no need to choke it to restart?) Or did you let it sit 15 minutes before retry in it..? Or did it just take 15 minutes of choke/no choke/choke.... to get it going again? Maybe something taking out ignition when it's warm. Bring a spare sparkplug and ride close to home and when it dies, verify you got spark.. and you could be getting and re-set ting water but it never really leaves the bowls till you drain it.

Took apart brakes on recently purchased bike and found front brake missing the flat bent pin spring thing that puts tension on the pins and pads.. anyone have one? Oh and I had regular cotter pins retaining the brake pad pins so I need to locate them... and while we're at it, seemed like endless air bleed the front linked caliper so I think I have a leak at the union under the frame neck.. with this I'd be inclined to delink the brake system simply by plugging the line at proportioning valve (or ditching the vslve) & adding a second brake line to the front brake master to the left caliper.. oem line source? & what, a longer banjo bolt at master cylinder?

And pumping the foot brake pedal I'd swear I hear a squishy sound (air leak??) Under the neck (proportioning valve).

And yes I checked the banjo bolts on the caliper and antidive (& bleeder on antidive) and my hand vac isn't leaking.. (I don't get air with the bleeder snugged

Well I cleaned the rear caliper pistons today and bleeding them I got it bled well but still had no brake pressure so I went back to bleed the front left caliper (still effing linked) & even tho it bled fine with the pedal yesterday, now I'm getting endless air with a hand vacuum pump. It's as if it has an air leak in at the metering valve under the neck. Getting dark now and frustration setting in..... I'd think to deli k I just need one brake lune to go from left front caliper to the handlebar master cylinder (& then the big piston master cylinder). Anyone know the length of that line and the banjo bolt size/type (& a source) as well as a suitable replacement master cylinder? (Ebay...).

And I have latest?