garyS-NJ

I have an '84 venture royal xvz12D with cruise control and I wanted to split the brakes by running two lines from the front master cylinder to the front calipers (and of course rearrange the rear brake lines..). Knowing that the 1984 front master cylinder only has a 12mm bore which might only be good enough for the one two piston caliper, I picked up a 1987 venture front master cylinder. so I just cut the wires for the front brake switch and see my original switch has four wires (brown, Yellow, black/white, and green/yellow).but my 1987 front master cylinder only has three wires (brown, Yellow, black/white). I took a look at the schematic and see that the power comes into the switch on the brown and when the brakes are depressed, that power is switched out to the yellow wire to light the brake lights. Same for the rear brake switch. I THINK THE GREEN/YELLOW WIRE IS FOR CRUISE CONTROL// schematic has the power coming into the rear brak switch on the brown wire and when the rear brakes are not depressed, that power comes out of the rear brake switch on the green/yellow wire and into the front brake switch./ and when the front brakes are not depressed, that green/yellow wire with power is switched to the black/white wire. from there, the power is routed on the black/white wire into the clutch switch and out of the cluth switch normally closed position to the cruise control unit and cruise control solenoid. I can only conclude that grabbing the front or rear brake or grabbing the clutch interrupts power on the black/white wire to the cruise control and turns off cruise control./ so my idea to use this front master cylinder is to connect the green/yellow wire to the black/white wire. All this should do I think is it will not allow me to turn off cruise control by depressing the front brake. Yes, not safe as possible but I want to get riding now with this master cylinder and "someday" I'll look for a four wire front master cylinder (someone said 1990's virago master cylinder will work). comments??

All the wiring diagrams are on here

Yes, I had checked and replaced my pressure sensor before isolating to the tci.. With the Ignetech I have dingy's map sensor and it seems to work as it increased idle when I pulled vacuum on it.. I haven't checked the map voltage scaling or anything else with the ignetech.. carbs were a little off sync and I'll hit that tomorrow/

And ohm out the pickups from tci connector (about 120 ohms) and check the 5 pin connector to pickups left side between frame and gas tank.. then at the tci connector you can check ignition voltage and ground (as well as measure coils). But getting an eyeful of oil to see no advance would confirm quickly

Backfired when I brought the rpms up. Never checked spark at revs.

My tci failed in the same manner. I tested everything including the pressure sensor voltages at vacuum. I also swapped pressure sensors. Confirmed no advance watching the timing marks. Mine fired all cylinders at idle but backfired out carbs. There's a good tutorial on the troubleshooting and I'll paste the link.

My advance never worked.

I don't have another working tci.. killed mine.

Tail looks cleaner without the turn signal stalks. Mine are getting swapped out

Laying a bike up for winter is sad. But it's for work and you ride the fj too.. I don't ever lay mine up for the winter but I lay myself up when there's snow on the ground.. tail looks nice.

I know this is an oldish thread and I'll go to the referenced thread to check on carb synching procedure.. but just reading the carb section in manual and it talks about throttle cable adjustment first and verifying that #2 works properly with the cable pulling full open to full closed (visually) and then to verify that the other three carbs also go full open to closed.. It gives the cable adjustment procedure to get #2 working properly and then if other carbs do do same then you should proceed to sync the carbs (to #2, the master).. I messed with my throttle linkage to get the cables off when I removed the carbs for cleaning.. after that I installed an ignetech ignition and the throttle response is now pretty crappy (revs up slow and then revs back down slow so much that between gear changes, it really doesn't rev down enough..). I'm going to look at that cable adjustment then try to sync the carbs but any comments??

Not to jack the thread but why are the later carbs not as much fun as the 83-85 carb set?? I have an '84. &why won't vmax carbs work? Lastly, my stock tci had same failure loosing advance when review it up. It would pop out the carbs. I tried to fix it then bought ignetech... also look at megasquirt if you're handy/curious..

Didn't look at engine parts yet

And turning the motor didn't open the valves.. mostly stripped it yesterday and owner now thinking about building a bobber.. he'll need a 1300 engine or work on this one..

That rear center piece and reflector was not there..

Good stuff thanks on the one way gear. That starter with a new agm batt was pulling the voltage down enough to warrant replacing as i cant see the dingy ground mod doing enough or worth the effort. & bought heavy cable and lugs to redo my starter cabling but after the 4 brush went in, she starts too easy... &so with that we might still be pulling the flywheel. That is a normal right hand bolt thread correct??

Didn't pull the flywheel yet as the 2 brush starter was loading down a new battery with jumpbox. Do they all just suck that bad?? Well i watched my bud get the brush loose but didnt look close at it or ohm it out or assemble it myself so i suspect the starter is coming in and out so fast its just rattling the start idler gear train.. odd because my 2 brush starter in my '84 didn't make that noise.. and I've never heard that noise. I i've heard that big clunking in my bike occasionally. This one didn't clunk. But what about oil on a slip surface?? Where??

Motor turns ok. Held the idler gears and cranked the starter watching the bendix gear and it wasn't obviously spinning wrong. Pulled the starter and found one brush hanging up bc the spring holder tab was bent. Ahah! Reinstalled starter and still no dice. Same screech At this point starter was pulling down the voltage even with a jump box paralleled.. measured voltages and jumped out the solinoid to rule other stuff out. He's ordering a Chinese 4 brush starter..

In the meantime working on an '86 and with the starter button I hear a screech under left cover and it occasionally turns the motor a bit. Starter was out and seemed ok. So we took off left cover and idler looked ok as did bendix and starter gear. .. we rotated the flywheel and it turned the crank pretty much ruling out the flywheel slipping on the shaft. Then we checked #1 @ TDC and the timing marks came to window confirming. So it's either the starter ( but the squeel is under the cover ). Or the bendix drive.. both are a pita so would like to tackle one... bike has a two brush starter and no 4 brush immediately available... bendix gear only turns one way by hand but perhaps under load it's slipping.. does a bendix drive fail like this??

In the meantime working on an '86 and with the starter button I hear a screech under left cover and it occasionally turns the motor a bit. Starter was out and seemed ok. So we took off left cover and idler looked ok as did bendix and starter gear. .. we rotated the flywheel and it turned the crank pretty much ruling out the flywheel slipping on the shaft. Then we checked #1 @ TDC and the timing marks came to window confirming. So it's either the starter ( but the squeel is under the cover ). Or the bendix drive.. both are a pita so would like to tackle one... bike has a two brush starter and no 4 brush immediately available... bendix gear only turns one way by hand but perhaps under load it's slipping.. does a bendix drive fail like this??

Ideas on that tapatalk new threads possible?

Hey on my phone trying to start a new thread via tapatalk but can't figure it out yet. Might have to go to regular site..

Thanks on that frame research!!!

Haha.. I want to grab everything. Will get those parts if they are there just for shipping. Idk anything about the motor.. might be good to crank it and test compression before pulling it.. fuel pump is gone. I don't think I'd be swapping frames... I bought my '84 for $75 with the engine seized and plans to dump it if I had to pull the motor.. can that frame failure be welded easier than swapping frames?

windshield and plastics mostly gone. I'm not interested in the bigger bags and trunk but will grab them to share if anyone else wants them.. and the radio control head? is that the top piece that has the buttons and display (... controls the radio)?? My radio works intermittently and only plays one speaker.. I figured the whole radio and cassette stuff should be gutted for weight and a new amplifier mounted in there to Bluetooth to my phone.. and a new set of speakers.. but I'll grab the radio if it's there.. thanks!!