garyS-NJ

I didn't notice what looks like a Crack in the photo.. will check. Yes the cover had a gasket. And the cover side recess looked OK (want to recheck). The whole gear train looked un marred and the play didn't look like it would allow the teeth to separate (checked all this after my post). Used the final gear against the starter drive and prying it to turn I didn't get it to skip or fail while rotating the engine and it was free in opposite direction.. decided to pull the wheel to inspect starter drive. But didn't have an impact drive on hand.

Success. I pushed greade through the speedo cable from the drive end with a zero fitting in a plastic cap..

I punch a piece of 3/8 rod through the baffle plate from the exhaust end and couldn't hear a difference.. then I punch the rod through the baffle (seemed very close, maybe the same plate?) Via the muffler input end and again didn't hear much change!!! Except warming up on choke I think I hear some popping at the muffler input.. now what? Anyone have a cross section diagram of these mk-1 mufflers? Thinking I want to cut off the whole tapered section and yank out that center tube..

I ran the shinko 777s last night and loved them. Felt like a different bike.

Success. I greased it through the sped drive cable through the connection at the front wheel. To do this I screwed a zero fitting into a plastic cap that fit over the cable end and duct taped it on good.. pumped about 20 pumps of grease into it and then worked the inner drive cable in as far as I could then in and out wiping the cable off to remove the excess grease. It works..

This 1987 xvz13 hit the starter and it just rattles under the left cover and ocassionally turns the motor.. swapped starter and it persists and the starter drive gear seems OK as it only turns one way... just noticed the case support for first idler shafts has weird grooves and it's worn such that the shaft will wobble. See pics. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/bb8b1e001215abae471e3af89e0ae5a0.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/5b07bc82b15f154dad433208034177c0.jpg Please confirm this is most likely cause else if I should pull the flywheel.. [/img]

I could cut the cones off with an angle grinder but want to know that I won't need jetting.. would be nice to find those guys on here. And I did a long high speed engine off run down a mountain once and it was a thrill. Like a glider plane. Fishtail required jetting? Do you have records of your jetting and what kind of sir filter?

Bottom good idea

Is beeping your horn at someone who is going to hit you considered defensive, offensive, or passive? come on!!!! Maybe we should get rid of horns (would have made 9th ave a whole lot more pleasant last night). And if you are driving by sight, without listening to anything then you are a bad driver. And folks that are inattentive (many and too many for my comfort) are often not looking so sound to ALERT them is good. everyone has their opinions about how much sound they want to make and/or hear but you can't argue that sound doesn't help. Full body armor would help.. I have a friend who is an everyday urban rider that wears leg armor (and a full face, gloves, boots and armored jacket). Some people wear tank tops and flip flops. it's choice but nobody would argue which is safer.

Are horns good equipment to let someone know you are in a potentially critical area? I've been riding street for 35 years and a lot of urban riding and oh hell yea I'd rather people know I'm next to them or in front, or on the side or coming across... even coming up from behind unless you are passing them at warp speed. loud pipes are a passive safety element like reflective materials and lights which help people to be aware of you (look twice save a life). And a crack on the throttle is always a faster and more efficient means of gaining someone's attention on the street. this is part of defensive riding. And I don't care if people scowl or I give bikers a bad name if it's keeping me alive an extra day. And I understand A/F ratio so add more air and then more fuel and then more power. Understood the power might be in a different place and a cammed up hot rod is not the smoothest thing to send your momma to the grocery store on. People that never jetted a carb (not you because I know you know plenty..) always say you can't run open intake and exhaust, because they don't. maybe I'll dremmel a hole or two in the center pipe before punching holes in the taper (or cutting the taper off), because to swap mufflers, I also have to swap the rear passenger pegs to boards

I bought this bike for $75 and just want enough into it to ride fun, and safe, and now. mufflers are off for new tires and will go back on somewhat modified today. It's not about defning noise but I ride in congested areas all the time (live in a city and ride in NYC) and loud pipes save lives. Also, an engines sound is my music (although I recently did a long ride with earphones and music and it was fun) and I love the feedback and also feeling a smogged up engine breath better they run way better.. Kinda surprised I'm not finding any details on modifying my mufflers. I think the whole tapered end will come off.. If the plugs burn I'll swap in a spare set I have

Pics are my muffler

So what can I do??

I have a stock '84 xvz12D with the stock mufflers and it is way too quiet/docile for me. I'm used to riding my '83 xj550 with an open collector and I also liked the sound of the venture with open collector.. But I don't want to reject the carbs just yet (this is my winter ride and just getting it on the road, I want to ride it) so running open collector is out of the question for now (I'll probably come back to this and rejet and look at a free flow air filter).. so I'd like to modify my stock mufflers (and again, not rejet). My mufflers also have some rusty turn downs on the end of the cones (look stock). Anyway, from what I'm reading, seems I need to get the cone off the end and then drill some holes in the outer baffle plate. below line talks about removing the cone but I'm not sure he's talking about a MK-I. can anyone provide a link or directions?? http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002009&id=193 ?? this link seems to indicate that I only need to drill holes in the cone. I pulled one of turn outs off (see pics attached) and see some holes around the center tube. So the cone is the tapered section after the straight section of the muffler? and this cone should come off leaving a muffler section that's about 4" across?? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYCw_jrpVoc

Getting to some of the finer servicing on my recently resurrected 1984 xvz12DL, I'm looking to service the fork tubes.. I have the wheels off for tires and figure this is a good time to do this. Some time ago I met a guy with a 1980's Honda V4 something which had hydraulic antidives and he said that he took them off a bike he bought used and found the antidives full of crud. He had some odd front tire wear and attributed it to most likely the left and right antidives not working the same... So back to my bike, the front forks seem to dampen OK just grabbing the brake and pushing to actuate the forks and it rides ok too. But with the old tires, I noticed the front end seemed to hop a little over grooves in the highway. Just a tad unnerving. So I was wondering if perhaps differences in how my antidives were working might be the cause.. I recently split the bakes and have two lines coming off an '87 front master cylinder to the front calipers.. That seems OK but the front braking is lacking and kinda soft.. (the rears now skid very easily but at least I don't have the front end diving when I step on the rear brake). I think I'll get a ride on the new tires first but then do most folks remove and clean out the hydraulic antidives when changing for oil on an old unknown bike?? any links for how-to's? Or should I start with just a fork oil change per the manual and set the air pressure??

sounds great KIC. Thanks.

dumb question but who else can I ask... going through the brakes on my '84 venture, I found only one of the rear caliper pad shims.. I need the outside pad shim 2 Part Number: 26H-25828-00-00 which is no longer available.. and I need two caliper dust covers Part Number: 26H-25836-00-00 which are no longer available.. I also found that I was missing a front brake item 17 Part number 26H-25919-00-00 support pad (the springy thing between the pads and the pad pins). are the above parts required? If so, does anyone have these in a box of parts that they would like to share, sell, or trade?? (I do have some extra parts from my 1984 XVZ12D and also access to an '87 xvz13 parts bike)

I was helping a friend with his '86 or 87 venture and had a starter issue where the starter would spin and squeal but only sometime engage the engine to turn the engine.. We took that cover off figuring we'd see something (I was guessing the flywheel key sheared) but nothing jumped out.. We even cranked the starter cover off while stabilizing the starter idler gear shafts. I gave him an old starter to try but suspect the starter clutch,.

Yes it ran well after that.

that makes sense. buy something that's safe for coated wheels but I was trying to determine if the venture wheels are clear coated (so I could use noxon).

Have the oem wheels off my '84 venture. Cleaned with bathroom cleaner but the aluminum still grungy.. are they coated? If so, any good cleaners that won't attack the clearcoat? Otherwise it's noxon.

Wheel turns on the bearing.. nothing turns on the axel (unless it's jammed up like a bad bearing or over compressed bearing

What was touching the axel and making the wear marks?. Could it be the wrong length spacer didn't make for proper beating clearance? Or maybe the pinch bolts were tightened before axel nut snuggled (idk what that would amount to but probably not good.).

Ingenious venture vet

Final assy was in the dark and I couldn't stay to install the carbs but I'm pretty sure it will run now.