garyS-NJ

I ran out of gas last week in jersey city on my way to jury duty. Found my petcock on reserve. I vaguely remember trying get to turn it by hand (just after I bought the bike this summer) and it wouldn't budge and I couldn't see it and left it alone... thought I had plenty of gas. Lucky a construction crew parted with a gallon or so to send me on

two things... your transition pipe looks to have two bends but the stock muffler only has one bend.. why? and how did you seal to the transition pipe to the cross over chamber and to the muffler? and looks like you are just supporting the front of the muffler so how did you support the rest of the muffler? (the oem muffler has a bracket near the balance point and so I guess the crossover connection is enough to stabilize it). I have road king mufflers coming.

I was just tire shopping for my '84 XVZ 12 and the top four I came dawn to was the Dunlop elite 3, the avon cobra, the shinko 230, and the shinko 777. I let price rule out the Dunlop figuring I wouldn't need the mileage and I didn't like the look of the avon for rain. was going to get the 230's because I have them on my little xj550 and like them (although I don't think I'm getting good mileage... didn't record) but then the 777's looked better for rain and now have a HD rear tire exceeding the oem spec. Bought the 777's and they ride nice and were very freshly made (bought from revzilla as their price was right and coming from philly to NJ they arrived in one day.) very happy

so you loaded a map with an interlock input set to off (or the map became corrupted) and this was perceived as a fault condition by the ignitech and prevented firing?? Like the setting overrided the actual signal input from the clutch or kickstand switch? I have an ignitech in my bike recently and have the cable to look into it but haven't even looked yet.

Without looking I'd imagine the stem is integral with the bottom tree so in order to move the stem and forks (bottom tree locked to the forks), you need the let the forks slide through the top tree.

Thanks!!! I'm gonna leave it alone then for now

Will they bolt right on?? And will the short antidive lines lines reach fine?? & will my '87 master (14 mm piston?) squeeze them fine?

OK, reading up on mufflers and reversion and exhaust velocity, and checked ebay for aftermarket options, and looked into modifying my oem mufflers (I have a spare set), and now looking at used road king mufflers.. looks like the best option but I'll need to get a pair of pipes fabbed to go from the collector to the straight mufflers and an another set of gaskets/clamps...

well these sure look like bubs that would fit.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400972415733

Bubs

Just spoke to guy at bus and they never sold a muffler with an angle for the mk-1s. He did recommend anti reversion cone in the muffler chamber.

I just put shinko 777s on my 84 rear at 42 and front at 38 and I haven't noticed any sway. Love the tires. Haven't ridden in rain yet

Anyone running bubs 7 ( Slip-on Outward Slash Mufflers - Softail Deluxe (07-UP) ) on their MK-1??? Also, looking into my options, I found a set of BUBs 7 Slip-on Outward Slash Mufflers - Softail Deluxe (07-UP).. will these bolt onto my crossover (looks like they angle out and back like the original mufflers). there';s no mounting hardware so looks like I would have to fab a bracket./. Also, do these have an extra quiet baffle such that they would be comparable to the stock oem muffler? and then if the baffle comes out, do I need to rejet?

Anyone running bubs 7 ( Slip-on Outward Slash Mufflers - Softail Deluxe (07-UP) ) on their MK-1??? I'm looking to get more sound/tone out of my stock '84 xvz12. I posted previously about modifying the oem mufflers and seems I could do anything (including replacing with straight pipes) without modifying carb jetting. Can anyone confirm this? Also, looking into my options, I found a set of BUBs 7 Slip-on Outward Slash Mufflers - Softail Deluxe (07-UP).. will these bolt onto my crossover (looks like they angle out and back like the original mufflers). there';s no mounting hardware so looks like I would have to fab a bracket./. Also, do these have an extra quiet baffle such that they would be comparable to the stock oem muffler? and then if the baffle comes out, do I need to rejet?

I'm looking at bubs 7 Slip-on Outward Slash Mufflers - Softail Deluxe (07-UP) to install on my 1984 XVZ12DL. what did you install? do you know if aforementioned mufflers will fit my bike (looks like they will accommodate the angle off the crossover but I will need to fab a mounting bracket). Do these bubs have a super quiet baffle that can/should be removed? And if the BUbs are run without baffle would my xvz12 need carb rejetting??

make sure the rear spacer and washer are installed proper order and the axel is torqued (I don't use a TORQUE WRENCH BUT IT IS CRANKED ON TIGHT), without the pinch bolts.. and then snug the pinchbolts.

The clutch if slipping barely would be on heavy load with an engaging clutch like a holeshot or changing gears. To have a clutch that's constantly slipping such that a higher RPM is required to maintain a fixed speed you would have a clutch that is getting so hot is would disintegrate quickly. This could happen if you clutch master (or more likely slave) got sticky keeping the clutch semi disengaged. And not to change the thread but I also use the rotella diesel oil because I read that it has more zinc (lubrication) and good for older motorcycles. Someone posted (Honda CB750 forum) some time ago that oil should be specified for a wet clutch (adding that I should not use zinc additives) to preclude slipping. But the Rotella seems to be fine to me.. ) (

8500 it is..

So 8500rpm is safe?

I'm wondering how this guy set up his intake and exhaust. looks like straight pipes.

and another thing along the lines of my feeble attempt at opening up the oem mufflers.. below link has the writer modifying a set of Harley road king mufflers by driving a piece of 5/8" rod right through the entire muffler (two baffle plates?).. maybe I try this first? http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=002009&id=195

Just got new skins and had the '84 xvz12 out with the Ignetek ignition. I brought it to the pre-set (but changeable) 7500RPM rev limit and seemed the motor wanted to go so much more (I wanted to go so much more). I read specs noting max hp at 7000rpm and max speed in gear at 7500rpm. And see that my tach redline is 8000 rpm (showing red from 8-10Krpm). So what is the real max rpm before we get valve float and would it be reasonable for me to set the rev limit to 8500rpm or 9K???

Wow. Great stuff. Will pm him about the jetting

I'm loosing almost a volt through the key switch also

Cool dano. It must be that. I did tur MN the motor my turning the final gear but only by leering it slowly