Wizard765

Yes it will bolt right on..

It's worse than that.. Now that it is a privately owned venture it should work like any privately owned business. For example if I run on that hwy they will take a picture of my plate and mail me a bill. This includes $7.00 for taking the picture plus a servicing fee and a fee for however many kms I traveled on the hwy. If I go from Hamilton to Markham it costs roughly $28 one way. If for some reason I don't pay that bill the Ontario Government will hold my drivers license and not let me renew until it is paid.. AND they will collect it for the "Privately Owned Company" Love to see them collect for me if I do some work for a company or person and they don't pay me..

I have most of the above but one that bothers me a lot is a local thing.. Here in Ontario they built a hwy using our tax dollars for the purpose of relieving some of the congestion getting around Toronto. This is called the 407 hwy and is a toll road. First thing they do is charge way too much to use it so it really does nothing for the congestion. But worst of all shortly after its up and running and WE all pay for it they sell it to some corporation in Brazil for next to nothing. The road is a video toll road so they are not even employing very many people. All they collect does not even stay in the country.. OK end of RANT

Where is this little town you speak of? Worst case is your charging system is compromised.. You could (with help) get to Carl's and get a ride home while the needed part is acquired.. If I came along we could swap batteries at some point on the way back if necessary..

The actual bar is 7/8" What you might be measuring is the sleeve. It is easier to get the right set and replace the sleeve as well as the grip.. Kuryakyn 6180 iso grips fit the 1st gen bars but they go over the existing sleeve

Ok this is officially for a Mac but 80% of it pertains to a PC as well. Just the couple of software examples are specific to a Mac. I do I.T. work for a living and this is one of the best explanations I have run across. I didn't write it so cannot take credit. I sincerely hope this helps. How to maintain a Mac 1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it. 2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. 3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless. The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam. As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it. Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. The free anti-malware application ClamXav is not crap, and although it’s not routinely needed, it may be useful in some environments, such as a mixed Mac-Windows enterprise network. 4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous. There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable. Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue. In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so. Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most users don't. 5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation. If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage. 6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention. The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Most of my riding is back country roads so I'm doing 90 Kms / hr or less. When I run the slab my mileage goes way down and I'm lucky to get 260 Kms per tank which is still a LOT more than you are getting.. Have you synced your carbs? Check the float levels in the carbs as well.. You might also want to check your diaphragms for pin holes

you should be getting 260 Kms plus before needing gas. My 84 consistently pushed 300 Kms on a tank but I'd be on reserve around 280 kms. The bike had 145000 Kms on it when I sold it. My 2nd gen is getting OVER 300 Kms per tank and it has 186000 Kms on it..

yup.. got the messages and all is looking good..

Welcome.. It would help if you told us the year of your bike.. 1st Gen or 2nd Gen.. I had a first gen and used rotella motor oil the whole time I had it and it was great. BUT on the 2nd gen that same oil caused a whine that I could not take.. so I've been experimenting with oil to get something that works for me and now I'm using Castrol 20/50 non synthetic and seems to work well for me.. I tried synthetic as well but I like to change my oil frequently so the expense is not necessary in my opinion..

From what I've seen the slingshot is very big but has no storage or next to no storage. So for day rides it would be so much fun but for trips maybe a little lacking.. The spyder has all sorts of storage if you get the touring model.. AND it's lots of fun to drive as well.. Just my thinking.. I'm leaning towards a Miata when I get to the point where I am not comfortable holding the bike up..

I know a few folks have used the Polk Audio DB401 speakers and they seem to be an improvement over the stock BUT 4" is still 4" and you can only get so much out of that small a speaker.. The DB401s are also marine grade so water won't hurt them

Best thing I did on my 84 was to get the steel braided cables from Skydoc.. made a world of difference. I also De-linked a the same time

I think Dingy might have them

Thomas: In my opinion if your oil level is right in the sight glass then just ride it.. My 84 would do that once in awhile as well. I just ignored it. If you over fill it you will not like the mess.. On another note I almost never checked on the center stand.. I always just held it level and had it half way up the glass. I think StanG is right as when the bike is on the stand the front wheel is on the ground with the back wheel off the ground which puts the bike in a decline position and more oil near the front of the sump where the site glass is.

nice design.. smooth edges so easy to hold and won't cut the material.. Fits the groove perfectly.. Good find

Will be praying for you brother

This is what Robin and I are planning on as well..

Richard I don't believe the 2nd Gen brakes will fit on the 1st Gen.. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. IF they do fit I have Bob's old brakes (at least the calipers) I think he still has the master..

Yahoo!! Are you going to replace the one we used with the right one?

The 89 comes with a CB and the antenna wire goes to the bottom of the CB first then there is one going from the CB across to the radio. The one on the CB can be pulled out rather easily.. Check that location..

Very nice Eck.. Love it.. While making the heat shields you may want to consider skid plates for the rear.. What kind of clearance do you have going down ramps out of driveways etc? I have a platform out the back that I bungee a cooler to and on occasion it has scraped (rare but has happened) Unless your support rack goes pretty much to the edge at the back.. plastic damages easily..

Wow!!

That would be AWESOME!! Last night's ride was excellent!!

personally I think you will be happy with it.. I went from an 84 to a 2000 and it took a season to really get use to it.. The only thing that I miss is rolling through small towns with my feet up on the hiway pegs at less than 35 mph and be able to roll on the throttle at the end of town. 2nd gen needs to gear down if you get that slow.. BUT I like the gearing on major hiways.. like traveling along at 70mph is very nice with the 2nd gen gearing.. Most of my riding is back country roads and it works fine for me.. In town I never get above 4th..