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Wizard765

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Everything posted by Wizard765

  1. Wizard765
    Does anyone know if those chrome leavers will fit a 1st Gen? Or where one could find chrome leavers for a 1st Gen? Wayne
  2. Wizard765
    HMMMMMM I wonder what Orange/Pineapple would taste like... In Ice Cream it is good. Or chocolate fudge...
  3. Wizard765
    Reiny I'm pretty sure that was Midicat... Wayne
  4. Wizard765
    Maybe the size of the picture is too big
  5. Wizard765
    Hi Jopie and Mary: I'm so happy it wasn't any worse and also no damage to the scoot. Looking forward to getting out with you two soon. Wayne
  6. Wizard765
    Hey that's AWSOME!!! Now you got to get her out to some of the M&E's so we can all meet her as well. Wayne
  7. Wizard765
    Bike looks awsome!! I LOVE the gold. Great job on the lights. How did you get the chin to work? Did you have to change your roll bars to make it fit? Is it off an 87? Wayne
  8. Wizard765
    I do 90% of my riding 2 up. I love it. My wife loves it and that makes it much better. It's something that we can do TOGETHER... Yes is is a big responsibility and my wife is very good at keeping me in check...
  9. Wizard765
    Oh and one more thing. This new stator must be a higher output. The reading on the meter is 14.5 at 3000 rpm. The gage on the bike is higher than I've EVER seen it. I guess I can add more lights......
  10. Wizard765
    I added more ground wires and that solved the hot ground wire issue even before we changed the stator.
  11. Wizard765
    YAHOO!!!! I gotta thank all you folks that pitched in here. Carl and I have learned a LOT about the charging system on these bikes. Anyhow even though the stator passed the AC volt test with flying colours it was bad. The worst part is that I had in my purchased a "rebuilt" stator so thought that it had to be something else. To complicate matters more that same stator passed all the tests when it was cold. So GeorgeS.. you are awsome.. thanks for your time and patience. Squeeze.. thanks to you also for your input. Jason... Thanks for insisting on the ground tests with the wires disconnected. Brian.. A HUGE thank you for the new in the box stator.. You were willing to loan it to me to make sure that was or was not the problem. Pay only if it works.. Awesome!!! So now I'll be sending you some $$$.. Bob: Thanks for the offer of the hub and I'm glad I didn't need it. CndDave: Thanks for coming over on Saturday and spending the afternoon TRYING to figure this out. Sorry to see the damage the lawnmower did to your side panel. and Neil... you mentioned the horn which got me digging into the switches on the handle bars which needed cleaning anyhow. Now my Kill switch works properly. The BIGGEST thank you goes to Carl for putting up with me and my bike for the last couple of weeks and to Marca for cheerfully giving up her time with him. He not only helped with the whole thing but was just as concerned, worried and upset as I was. A true friend in deed. MAN I LOVE THIS PLACE... We got to go for a nice ride this afternoon.. IT FELT AWSOME!!!! Robin says THANKS to all of you as well. Wayne
  12. Wizard765
    Thanks George: We picked up a NEW in the box stator from Brian last night and are going to change the stator. Cannot do it now till Monday due to a Family celibration. Jason: We will also perform the resistance test you have described. The original stator gave us AC tests of around 6V from each white wire to ground. The stator that is in now I got from eBay a couple of years ago and was sold as a "rebuilt". It looked to be exactly that. The AC tests out to 9.4 V on each wire with that one. So I guess it is possible that my original went bad AND that the "rebuilt" one from eBay is also bad. Wayne
  13. Wizard765
    At this Point, i have no further Idea other to exchange everything from the Stator up to Battery. As the Battery is proven good and it don't believe in three bad R/R, the Stator might be the Culprit. While you have the Stator Cover open, you could check ,if the "Stator Cooling Upgrade" is mounted on your Bike. What does a "stator cooling upgrade" look like? If there isn't one how do I get one? Wayne
  14. Wizard765
    OK latest update: We took it all apart and made new plugs for the regulator 5 wire connector. I also added new ground wires for that plug. No more hot wires. Resoldered carefully the 3 white wires. Spent the whole day chasing wires and plugs. Cleaned every connection on the bike (none were bad) and added dilectric grease. Tested all three regulators and they test out fine. Bob you have a good point. That is the only part of the equation that we have not addressed. Is there an armature or exciter in our bikes? Is there some other part than the stator that we are missing? What is a rotor worth? Squeeze: We started the bike and then disconnected the starter from the system. Tested to see if we were getting a charge and there was no change. On an off chance that I have two bad stators Carl and I drove to Uxbridge tonight and picked up a new stator from Brian (thanks Brian) and we are going to try that next. We are running out of ideas. I really appreciate all the help here. You folks are AWSOME!!! Wayne
  15. Wizard765
    Wow Bob: That is a mess and looks to be very frustrating work. Hopefully not as bad as it looks and I so hope you find the time to get er done in time for Carl's. Wayne:nanner:
  16. Wizard765
    Now I have another question. This is bothering Carl as much as me and he is checking things out when he gets a break. Anyhow when he tests for resistance from the battery neg terminal to anywhere on the bike it is zero when the bike is turned off but if the bike is running the readings are all over the place from 20 to 50. Is this normal or does this indicate a problem? Wayne
  17. Wizard765
    Brian: That is an amazing offer and I just might take you up on that. I plan on chasing the ground issue on Saturday. If I cannot resolve the problem that way I will take a road trip to Uxbridge. Thank you so much. Wayne
  18. Wizard765
    Thanks GeorgeS for your responses At Carl's we put his battery in my bike to test the battery theory. I have had my battery sit for days and it holds it's charge. Carl's battery in my bike creates the same symptoms. I added a few new accessories over the winter. All of them have been disconnected for this procedure. That was the first thing I thought because everything was working fine before I parked it for the winter. I had already added 2 35 watt highway lights which worked fine all last season. This winter I added a relay for those lights so that I couldn't "forget" to turn them off. I also added a 12 volt receptical (cigarette lighter). A chrome bumper with LED lights and a Wolo horn with another relay. I'm thinking a bad ground from the regulator now (hot wires). Can I add more ground wires like you did or replace existing ground wires? If one is getting hot could it be that the other one isn't working at all so all the load is going through the one that is hot? When I test for resistance on either wire I get zero though. If I splice an extra ground wire would I do that before or after the plug? Anyhow I've got some things to try. Thank you and I'll let you know how I make out. Won't be for a couple of days.. Work (evil word) gets in the way sometimes. :-) Wayne
  19. Wizard765
    Ok here we go again.. I'm about ready to pull whats left of my hair out... GeorgeS I appreciate your help and anyone else that wants to chime in with some ideas.. I took the bike over to MarCarl's so that in theory 2 heads are better than one. Now both of us are frustrated. AC voltage from each wire to ground reads 9.8 on the three white wires. There is no plug and the wires are soldered to the wires coming from the regulator. We pulled the fairing and checked the ground wire going to the frame on the upper left side. There is only one of the black wires going to that ground. The other black wire goes to the neg terminal on the battery. Tested for resistance through the plug and all is good. Tested each black wire for resistance back to the neg post on battery and get zero. Tested the red wires from the regulator to the pos post on battery and get zero Got two used regulators from BongoBobNy and tried both with no change. When bike is running at 2000 rpm the DC reading at the battery starts at 13.2 when it is cold and drops steadily till it is around 12.7. We noticed that one of the black wires coming from the regulator gets very hot. I took apart the main 40 amp fuse and cleaned it etc. I have disconnected everything that I can see. Are there fuses somewhere else? I had a "rebuilt" stator that I'd purchased from eBay awhile ago and it is now in the bike. Could it be that my original stator is bad AND the so called rebuilt is bad as well? Carl and I have run out of ideas.. HELP!!!! Wayne
  20. Wizard765
    GeorgeS: Am I measuring the resistance on the regulator side of the plug or the bike side of the plug. On the bike side I get .1 or 0 but on the regulator side with the plug disconnected the reading is quite high on both black wires. Could it be as simple as the regulator not grounding to the frame of the bike? Wayne
  21. Wizard765
    Thank you GeorgeS and Squeeze for your help and patience. I have removed all the fuses except the ignition and replaced one at a time. Voltage stays pretty much the same all the time. It does drop by .2 or .3 V DC when I put the headlight fuse back in but even with all of them out and everything disconnected from the battery except the main fuse and starter the voltage only reads 12.7 at 2000 rpm and 13.1 at 3000 rpm. I really don't believe it is the battery because with a different battery it behaves the same way. I will do the checks on the regulator wires and let you know what I get. Wayne
  22. Wizard765
    Over the last couple of weeks I have charged the battery up to full charge a few times. When I do that it will hold the charge as long as I want if the bike is turned off. It will last up to 2 hours of riding time. Starts off just fine and starts the bike well but eventually drains to the point that I need to have a push to get the bike started. I read the instructions for the battery and charged it with a Car charger. I also put the old battery back into it just to see if it was a battery issue. I didn't change the battery because the old one had failed. I changed it to try and get the better starting amps when the bike is hot. The old battery is only 2 years old and working fine. It also drains while riding. Wayne
  23. Wizard765
    At 3000 rpm I'm now getting 13V DC at the battery. I tried taking everything off the battery except the main fuse and starter. I also disconnected all fuses except ignition. At 3000 rpm I was getting 13.1 or 13.2 and that did not change except it dropped to 13.0 when I put the headlight fuse back in. I added fuses one at a time and rechecked. Wayne
  24. Wizard765
    Ok here we go.. At 2000 rpm DC voltage at the battery 12.7 AC Voltage 12.2 12.2 11.9 Does this help?
  25. Wizard765
    Thanks guys: The battery is brand new Odyssey. I had a two year old yuasa (not sure how to spell that) that was fine but I changed to the Odyssey to try to help with the starting issue when hot. I took out the 3 pin connector and soldered those joints. I will have a closer look at the other connection and check the ground. I have not checked where the battery grounds to the bike. The other plug from the rectifier looks good and clean. I added dilectric grease to every connection I could find. Wayne
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