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Dano

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  1. Dano
    You need to verify 240 +/- volts incoming (I assume it's a 2 pole breaker, 240 volt water heater). The breaker may appear to not be tripped, but may have not moved, especially if it hasn't been "exercised" (on + off) in a long time. Go ahead and turn the breaker off and then back on a couple of times. If the breaker trips while doing this, then you most likely have a bad element. If you are only reading 120 volts at the heating element, then you do not have full power coming thru the thermostats. Check voltage at the top thermostat where the wires come down from the top. If 240 volt is not present here, then you have a supply problem. Follow the schematic on the back of one of the closure panels you took off. Most heaters operate with the bottom element being the primary element, with the top element being used only when the heater has run out of hot water. There is also a reset (red) button on most thermostats that may have tripped. After satisfying these tests, then turn off power to the heater, disconnect the wires from the elements and ohm them out. If you need to replace an element, make sure you have a socket or adjustable pliers big enuff to latch onto it. It will be pretty tight in there. Also, don't forget to use some rector seal on the threads (not plumbers tape, gets too hot for that) when reinstalling the element. Try these tests and see what happens. Dan
  2. Dano
    Good go there, Jon! Now that you have those nasty diaphragms replaced, how about doing a synch and possibly a color tune on those bad boys? Fuel mileage should pick up, it'll run like a scared rabbit, and you won't be able to keep that grin off your face! Dan
  3. Dano
    Why, that would be Wayne and Bens of course!
  4. Dano
    You need to get a digital meter to check the inputs and outputs to/from the TCI. Give me a call when you're ready to check it, I'll guide you thru the process (317-370-0139 cell) If it was a pick-up coil, it would be 2/4 or 1/3 cylinders.. This is the only way I found my problem, which was a loose terminal connection on the output of the TCI to #3 coil........ Terminal wasn't making contact with the pin out from the TCI. Relocate that sucker using a #3 phillips bit, 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" socket. Twist your head around down in the airbox area, there's one screw on each side (upside down). You'll have to hold that ratchet head up tite on the screw or you'll strip it. Once you get it broke loose it's easy. Unplug it, bring your harness up top and the wires are just long enuff to relocate TCI to the top of the airbox. Cleans up 50% of the problems, plus its easier to diagnose. On the airbox reinstall, put the big hose on the airbox, wiggle it back down between the carbs then use the looooong needle nose to put the hose back on the twinkie. I used a screw clamp instead of the spring clamp to hold it on there. Good luck
  5. Dano
    I'm starting to have the same symptons on mine, but changed to a 20-50 on the last change. I'll switch back next oil change and see whats going on, but I'm going to check my shift linkage first. These do have ball & socket joints (both inside and outside the middle gear cover). Could be one of them is getting hinky (!)
  6. Dano
    Funny wat u kin do wit' dat der new teknology! Skinny Squidley
  7. Dano
    Glad to hear you came out OK Gary, hope the 'nodes are just scared too! I know that area you're talking about, everybody's in a rush to move one more spot forward. Praying for your diagnoses to come back clean! Dan
  8. Dano
    I've always thought of putting an old style (70's Kawi) cafe' racer headlight cover and hanging the skins off the sides like a road racer, have to have a seat made and rear cover. I was checking that out last year before I put the plastic back on the bike. might look pretty cool.
  9. Dano
    I was paying that a WEEK at my previous employer for the wife and kids.
  10. Dano
    Thanks for the update Salty, another SCREW UP I forgot to mention...... the fuse........ sounds like you have a few options for electrical on your bike. Good go, we appreciate the tips. Dan
  11. Dano
    It was 58 here when I got up!
  12. Dano
    I SCREWED UP! (I told you I would!) It was Saltydog, not Snaggletooth in the post who put his in the fairing, he actually mounted it in the air flow coming down the inside of the fairing if you look at the pics. This should deal with the excess heat, rather than putting it in the engine bay. I also screwed up on the connector colors, corrected that in the post above. But really if you pay attention, the gray has 3 wire leds and the black has two, therefore it should leave you to believe the gray is stator input and the black is the output. Please refer to SaltyDogs post referenced above for the install if you want it in the fairing. Dan
  13. Dano
    Thanks for the compliments guys, the last of the units went out yesterday. It's been a LOT of work, making sure everything was correct. Dave at Indian ( ddudziak@indianmotorcycle.com ) went out of his way to make sure we had all brand new units, never installed and made sure we had the hook-up for the complete correct connectors. Please send him an email thanking him for this. Great guy to work with! I really think these new units will help out with a lot of problems, especially having higher voltage available at idle. I plan on putting mine in sometime in the next month. Here's a write-up I did for Skydoc last night for the wiring install, you can pretty much mount it anywhere you want, but I like the location SaltyDog picked in the original thread (posted above) inside the fairing. The gray one is your 3 wire stator feed into the regulator, the black one your output, inboard (left) pin is DC +, the outboard (right) pin is DC-. Extend your stator wires (solder & shrinkboot extensions, minimum wire size #12 stranded) to the regulator. Put a blue insulator boot over each wire, then install the terminal with a good crimp tool. You may solder if careful and don't use too much (just heat up and dab the solder onto the terminal, a pin torch is ideal for this). Install the terminals in the black connector (order does not matter, one wire per hole), then slide the blue insulators up into the connector body. this seals up the back side of the terminal. On the black connector, take the yellow plug and install it in the center hole. This connection is not used. Run a #12 (or even #10) red from the + terminal to the battery+ and the same wire in black to the - terminal of the battery. Hook up the terminals the same as before. Mount your unit where ever you want, I'm thinking about the left fairing under the radio pocket. BTW, just capoff the brown wire in the harness connector tothe old unit, it was a voltage sensing circuit and is not used on the new regulator. Of course you won't be using the paired red and black wires in the harness at either end any more, too. That should screw you up good enough to get the job done Once again, thanks for your compliments PS I want to thank Condor for all his help in this project also! Thanks Jack!
  14. Dano
    They need jackets and sweatshirts down in El Paso Tx, got down to 92 there yesterday............
  15. Dano
    Randy, sorry to hear about your problems. Sounds like a creature got in there or your main breaker broke down possibly from the lightning strike last year. Might have the insurance agent tag this along with your claim from the AC unit. I would have the entire service replaced, from the weatherhead all the way through to the panel and any house wiring that had been damaged from the meltdown. A direct short such as this produces so much power running thru the lines till the fuse at the transformer kicks out that the lines out thru the meter and up to the weatherhead have been damaged, even if its not evident to the layman. Good luck and let us know how it comes out. Dan PS hows the BIKE?!!!
  16. Dano
    It went for 102.51, I just missed checking it before it ended. Another one went for same price. There's one on there starting at 99 bucks. I'm kinda watching that one for the next couple of days. I think the ones going for 50 bucks anymore is over with. They've figured this one out! Dano
  17. Dano
    Dang, wish I had that problem to begin with!
  18. Dano
    Thanks, buddy
  19. Dano
    I hate it when you get a false sense of repair like that.
  20. Dano
    Why, you need company up there, Brad? Vern
  21. Dano
    Not at liberty to say (under penalty of NOT being able to stay at his house if I make it over there!), but I've seen the parts myself and they are top-notch. The Vmax boys keep tearing out the standard starter clutches, and this is a fix-all end-all repair. I am handling the mods for him in the American continents. I just need the rotor and $275, will send you back a complete unit ready to install with new upgraded starter clutch and 72th gear. Pretty much guarenteed to work forever! (it IS a 1st gen, after all!). But since you have a pretty new ring gear, we may not have to replace it, we'll have to examine it for any damage around the collar. Dano
  22. Dano
    OK, heres the updated list on who's been shipped. I apologize for not getting all of them out, mainly got the US boys out (and Marcarls). Time just did not come easy to get the Canadians done with the customs forms I have to fill out. They WILL be shipped out Tuesday! (Of course, that depends on what time I get back from the US Nationals out at IRP (oops ORP!) tomorrow night!) Danob11 -1x Squeeze - 5x paid Rocket - 2x paid Paul Richard ozlander - 1x paid Merlyn Michael SHIPPED timgray - 1x paid Tim Gray SHIPPED barend - 1x paid Barend de Vlaming SHIPPED mbrood - 2x paid Mike Brood SHIPPED Enjay - 1x paid Mike Cavagnaro SHIPPED Iowa Guy - 1x paid Tim Lantz SHIPPED safetyguy -1x paid Mike Levy SHIPPED nyjerry -1x paid Gerald Doverspike thom440 -1x paid Tom Bagby SHIPPED Condor -2x paid Jack Chalais SHIPPED Camos -2x paid Clive Amos kbert777 -1x paid Klaus Bertram SHIPPED Smitty161 -1x paid Jonathan J Smith SHIPPED Marcarl -5x paid Carl Norg SHIPPED Bongobobny -2x paid Bob Scharf SHIPPED dthomso1 -1x paid Doug Thomson friesmann1 -1x paid Brian Fries uncledj -1x paid John Sheehn SHIPPED Wizard765 -1x paid Wayne Higson SHIPPED (w/ Marcarls) cimmer -2x paid Richard Fink SHIPPED hlange -1x paid Henry Lange SHIPPED Rumn1-2x paid Mike Rumney SHIPPED StuD- 4x paid Stewart Doonan DiggerC – 1x paid Stan Cook JasonM - 2x paid Jason Morris SHIPPED Skydoc17- 1x paid Earl Harrell SHIPPED Mraf- 1x paid Alan Waters SHIPPED SmilingJack 1x paid Chuck Franchello SHIPPED Tony1M 1x paid Fulton Morneau Saddlebum 1x paid Ben Bennink SHIPPED (w/ Marcarls) 23 parcels sent out
  23. Dano
    Wonder if that compressor is good enuff to wire up for a tire filler? Anybody done that? If so, I'll take it.
  24. Dano
    Now that right there is funny!!!
  25. Dano
    Nice job Dingy! Great work and nice write up. I think this ought to go in the 1st gen tech library, we'll work on Don to get it in there. How about it, Boss? Wanna help us out here? Dano
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