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Dano

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Everything posted by Dano

  1. Sounds like a connector to the cancel switch or the whole cancel switch is what he's looking for.
  2. Not to be mean, and we'd like ya to stick around, but them there Victory Visions have that. If you wanna drive Bozo the clown around town, that is. I don't think anyone has contemplated that here. An interesting thought. Discussion continue
  3. Go online to www.partshark.com . Look up your bike on the oem parts finder and it will show you everything you can get. If you cleaned up the piston and bore with no pits or scratches, you should be able to just go with oring and seals. Good luck and welcome to the site, we'll help you all we can, even test riding your bike when you get it done! Feel free to ask any questions you need answered. Dan
  4. They pretty much have to be factory to hook-up. I believe I saw a set on flea bay the other day. They work great if you're not over 6', otherwise they can cramp your legs. Good luck.
  5. Most of us have joined that club in the town of "Klutzville"
  6. If he sells that for 8 g's, I'm putting mine up for 5!
  7. Only thing I can think of out here is grain bins, some of them can get pretty tall. I haven't heard of one of them catching fire around here, though. If we needed one, the big city's not that far away. Might've been some "stimulus" money was involved with that. They'll let you spend money on something you don't need, but not for something you do need. Dan
  8. Both of you guys need to head down/over to the house next weekend and I'll show ya how to do it. Squid only had to correct me once down at the rally when I forgot to tweak the idle first. THAT'll only happen once!
  9. On the calendar and packing already!
  10. I think BongoBob spent some time there in the late 60's, gathering by the tshirts he wears........... I'm just sayin'........... Honestly, if I was around there or had some extra gas money, I'd go check it out for ya!
  11. RIP Patrick.
  12. Great pics Lewis, how was Bills back from riding that Kawi down there?!
  13. Late August then, Charlie?
  14. Seems like I was right on with my original diagnoses. If I would have known you had a Zinnsco breaker box, I most definately would've known that was the cause. I'm glad the inspector is helping you out with this, he seems like a knowledgeable and very good guy. Seems like the insurance company is coming thru, also. You might want to give Yammer their phone number! Great pics, glad you two got out for a nice ride. Looks like beautiful country, gonna have to make it down there someday. Dan
  15. Well, I'm 52 and I won't have any sociable security when I retire!
  16. Wonder what Jeff (Muffin) has run "officially" or NOT "officially"
  17. Oh, go ahead now, you gonna pull the WIFE card on me now? Honestly Ben, I never thought you would stoop so low (LOL). I guess we'll just have to throw yours and mine in the cage out back and see who wins! In the meantime we'll have Charlie or Hal bring some "Apple Pie" down and have a few (might even throw Gayle in there for funsies!)!
  18. Our longest has been 560 from the Hub to home this past August. OK for me, the wife hung in there.
  19. Yeah, you could say that!
  20. Congratulations! You both have passed your plumbers license test!
  21. You need to verify 240 +/- volts incoming (I assume it's a 2 pole breaker, 240 volt water heater). The breaker may appear to not be tripped, but may have not moved, especially if it hasn't been "exercised" (on + off) in a long time. Go ahead and turn the breaker off and then back on a couple of times. If the breaker trips while doing this, then you most likely have a bad element. If you are only reading 120 volts at the heating element, then you do not have full power coming thru the thermostats. Check voltage at the top thermostat where the wires come down from the top. If 240 volt is not present here, then you have a supply problem. Follow the schematic on the back of one of the closure panels you took off. Most heaters operate with the bottom element being the primary element, with the top element being used only when the heater has run out of hot water. There is also a reset (red) button on most thermostats that may have tripped. After satisfying these tests, then turn off power to the heater, disconnect the wires from the elements and ohm them out. If you need to replace an element, make sure you have a socket or adjustable pliers big enuff to latch onto it. It will be pretty tight in there. Also, don't forget to use some rector seal on the threads (not plumbers tape, gets too hot for that) when reinstalling the element. Try these tests and see what happens. Dan
  22. Good go there, Jon! Now that you have those nasty diaphragms replaced, how about doing a synch and possibly a color tune on those bad boys? Fuel mileage should pick up, it'll run like a scared rabbit, and you won't be able to keep that grin off your face! Dan
  23. Why, that would be Wayne and Bens of course!
  24. You need to get a digital meter to check the inputs and outputs to/from the TCI. Give me a call when you're ready to check it, I'll guide you thru the process (317-370-0139 cell) If it was a pick-up coil, it would be 2/4 or 1/3 cylinders.. This is the only way I found my problem, which was a loose terminal connection on the output of the TCI to #3 coil........ Terminal wasn't making contact with the pin out from the TCI. Relocate that sucker using a #3 phillips bit, 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" socket. Twist your head around down in the airbox area, there's one screw on each side (upside down). You'll have to hold that ratchet head up tite on the screw or you'll strip it. Once you get it broke loose it's easy. Unplug it, bring your harness up top and the wires are just long enuff to relocate TCI to the top of the airbox. Cleans up 50% of the problems, plus its easier to diagnose. On the airbox reinstall, put the big hose on the airbox, wiggle it back down between the carbs then use the looooong needle nose to put the hose back on the twinkie. I used a screw clamp instead of the spring clamp to hold it on there. Good luck
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