Dano

Gary, you keep on living that dream for us, one day we will walk in your shoes. Enjoy it while you can in that Space Shuttle of yours. You DO plan on being back east by MD, don't you?! Dan

At the polls in November. We can replace the entire House of Representatives and 1/3 of the Senate this coming November. Lets pick the small business guys who don't give a hoot about politics and just wanna get this country going back where it should be. Then in 2 years another 1/3 of the Senate then 2 years after that to finish the job. The time for "career" politicians should be over. It's up to us now to do this. JMHO Dan

Yammer would be so proud of you!!!!!!

Pick me up on your way down I69, would 'ya?

Nope, means better components and techniques were used, thats all.

yep, there's another thread headed south towards Mexico............

I'm thinkin' the calmness had more to do with the little white pills............. I'm just sayin..

You are better off getting the upgrade part numbers as listed by Pegscraper (in the link provided by Don), if you keep putting the same parts back in,(IE the cover with the bend-over tabs), you will continue to have problems every couple of years down the road. I had this happen to me 125 miles from home one day and the stator went out at the same time. NOT a fun ride home, but she got me there! BTW, how many miles are on the bike, do you know if the "second gear" issue has been fixed? (actually it's the thrust and wear washer on the end of the middle gear shaft that causes the problem, second gear is the symptom) Once you get it running, get on the throttle in 2nd gear, if it jumps, you're due for the repair. Not for the faint of heart, but can be done by someone with mechanical training and not afraid to pull the motor out of the bike. Good luck, and we'll help you all we can! Dan

That would be the correct post Don, now all he needs is the parts listed, a warm snow free garage and a couple of hours and he's good to go! Just remember Trankenator, there is a full service manual available for download in the first gen tech section also. That will describe how to remove the right side cover, the clutch and drum to be able to access the shift drum. Oh, BTW, you'll need to make up one of these to hold the clutch drum to loosen the crank bolt, some have had luck with a good impact gun to get it loose.

WHYis this thread clear back on page 4?!!!! Why?

Sounds like a good design to me, are we keeping the potato head?!

Hi Bart, welcome to the site and please ignore everyone else here who is not dealing with your problem. This discussion should have been moved to a new thread. There are two reasons for your bike to die when shifting into first. One has already been explained via the kickstand switch. The other is tied to your clutch system. You stated previously "the clutch was dry" by which I assume there was no fluid in your master cylinder or the slave cylinder. If by now you have properly installed new fluid and bled the slave cylinder, then most likely the clutch plates are sticking together from being in contact under spring pressure for so long. The oil (or lack of it) will cause the plates to stick together (almost like a varnish) until they are disassembled and cleaned or "busted loose" by off idle (about 1500rpm) dumping of the clutch and seeing if that will work. How long has the bike sat? It may require removal of the right side cover and removal of the clutch plate stack for a little clean-up. On the stator issue, please let us know if you have any electrical/mechanical background and we'll help you thru this. A service manual is available for you to download and print in the 1st gen tech section located under forums, an invaluable tool for these situations. Matter of fact, to shorten the thread, why don't you start a new thread with your findings? Dan PS feel free to PM me if you've got any questions.

Do what Earl (Skydoc) said and remove the rear sub-frame and the gas tank. Might seem like it would take longer, but in the end it won't. Dan

We'll see you there!

Just added note for non-member purchases

Jeff, I will be glad to do the mod for you when you are ready, but please give me a PM when you are ready to take it out, that way I will make sure I have the parts available when your rotor arrives. I will edit the original post to add the shipping address for everybody. Make sure you let me know if you want the gasket kit or not. I can also accept Paypal if that's the way you would like to go for payment. I know how it is with buried projects, that 87 I'm doing is now behind the bench..........

Of course, that's "Normal" for you Jack........ But then again, I think that I'm normal

I have edited the original post to show that OEM gaskets and crush washer are available for $15 if you would like them shipped with your starter clutch mod. Thanks everybody Dan

I am a firm believer in the air horns, saved my butt a time or too. I think they ought to be standard equipment on all bikes. Glad you made it out OK. Dan PS, feel free to buy me something while you're there, I'll be glad to pay for shipping! We'll look for you on Speed TV tonite!

BUMP

Good luck Karl, make sure they pay attention to you this time and don't let Anesthegiologist Nurse Cratchett near you this time! The only demands to be met are the ones you place on them! Call someone when you can to let us know how you're doing till you get back on here. Dan

Good luck and prayers are with you Rooster.

Once again, "Only the Shadow knows"

No problem Dave, we gots a few more of them around here! Let me know when you're ready tohead this way!

I am pleased to announce for our VR members a starter clutch mod that will last forever and put an end to that "Clunkety-clunk" that you hear when your starter clutch is going bad. I will let Squeeze explain it much better than I ever could: The stock Starter Clutch is a one Way Clutch which uses three spring loaded Rollers the connect to the big 72th Gear Wheel which is the last Gear in the line of several Gears coming from the Stater Motor. These 3 Rollers connect (in Fact they run) to the inner Area of the Wheel by spring Force and clamping Force. This whole Assembly sits in a Housing which is bolted to the Flywheel with 3 Bolt in M8 Thread. Over Time, these Bolts tend to get a little bit loose plus the Rollers and the Surface they're running at develop some flat Spots and chattering Marks too. This is the common Scenario where the Problem starts to get heard. If the Battery is cold and/or isn't in the best Shape anymore, the Rollers can't "bite" strong enough to the connecting Area and the Clutch lets go for a half a Turn. If The Rollers bite on a chattering Mark or a flat Spot the Connection they may hold on or let loose again. This Movement creates the hammering Sound and puts a Lot of more Force on the loose Bolts. This, of Course, allows even more uncontrolled Movement of the Clutch Assembly and a even more dysfunctional Clutch. As an nasty Side Effect, the Clutch can, and i know of two Cases where it actually did, cause the Starter to act as an Generator because the One Way Clutch wasn't a Clutch anymore but a solid Connection. This caused the Starter Motor to burn down on both Cases. I suspect a Lot more of these Cases, but there's not enough reliable Data for me to make a final Call. I've seen a Lot of these Clutches and not one of them was even partially reusable. I have Buddies which tried to reuse some Parts, but they did the Job twice or even three Times in the End. I know a Bunch of Guys with heavily modified Engines, meaning 1500 cc Vmaxxes at least, and each and everybody of them had their Share of Head Ache in this Regard. The Record Holder of those is the Guy with a 1600 cc High Compression Motor who needed three complete Starter Clutch Assemblies each Season. So, in the End, you have two Options to get the Job done First Option is to buy a complete Set of new Parts, not just the small Set of Rollers, Springs, Caps, but also three Bolts, the Housing and the 72th Wheel, mount the Assembly exactly in centered Position to the Fly Wheel, red Loctite the Threads of the Bolts and don't forget to punch the End of Threads with a Center Punch. Then cross your Fingers, say a Prayer or both and hit the Starter Button after completing the Install. Feel good about the cheap (around 185 Bucks for the Parts) Repair but you need to keep the Procedure in Mind, because most likely you'll do that again some Time later. Or Second Option Send your Rotor over to Dano in a 12x10x5 Inch Package, get it back with the Gaskets (optional), don't worry about having the Clutch Assembly mounted exactly centered to the Flywheel, just mount the Rotor and the new 72th Wheel and have a good Time while being a happy Camper. This is because Dano will mount a much more sophisticated Clutch Assembly, which uses 18 Ellipses instead of three Rollers. The Ellipsis are spring loaded too and because of their Shape, not only bite at the 72th Wheel, but lock up the Connection between Rotor and 72th Wheel. Because of the ellipsoid Design, you won't need to worry about burning down your Starter Motor. I sure you weren't worried about that before, but it's good to be sure anyway. Not to mention, getting the Flywheel off the Crank Shaft can be a ... well ... how do it say this ... pita ... Yes, this Upgrade is more expensive than Option 1 and it will need a little bit more of Downtime because of the Transit Times of the Parcel. But you'll be a happy Camper and never think about the Starter Clutch Issue again. Oh, except maybe the Times somebody tells you his 1Gen or Vmax produces a hammering Sound upon starting ... Squeeze Now for the nitty-gritty. All you need to do is remove your flywheel/rotor, send it and a check for $275.00 (US, VR discount and return shipping included, Canada shipping a bit more) to me and a couple of days later I will return it to you with the starter clutch mod already mounted ready to go back on your bike. You will also need to get the 2 left side cover gaskets and crush washer for the lower bolt on the middle gear cover. If you would like me to supply them, an additional $15.00 will be added ($290.00 total US). If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to PM me or call me at 317-370-0139 anytime and I'll be happy to discuss it with you. An additional note here for non-members wishing this mod- Price will be $295 US, gaskets priced the same. Dan Shipping address: Dan Obert 8699 W 800 N Indianapolis, In 46259-9402 Paypal & email addy: danob11@comcast.net __________________