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Dano

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Everything posted by Dano

  1. With the high idle, lack of power over 85 +/-, little popping etc, I'd have to say the carb synch is way off. One of the main indications is the high idle. Make SURE there is some play in the throttle cables, they may be getting too tight (adjustable nut just inside the left lower fairing, follow the throttle cables up). If you have cruise, you can adjust at the throttle grip also. Maybe about a 1/2" twist of the grip should be play. When you do your synch, just remember that all carbs must match the front left (#2) carb. Do the left rear first, then match the right side carbs together then match them to the #2 carb. Probably take you a half hour the first time. Oh, you'll want to make sure you keep the idle around 1000 rpms (right Squid?!) as you're synching the carbs. Thank goodness you're doing a first gen or you'd also need a 5' long screwdriver to do a 2nd gen!
  2. You just need to move down here where it's warmer and cheaper Charlie! You could actually get some riding time in then!
  3. When I saw the thread title, my first thought was---- Well, Jay done went and kicked the wrong guy in the *ss again! Glad to see it wasn't that and you'll only be down for a bit. Looking forward to seeing you again at MD or where ever down the road!
  4. Might also be a balancing problem too.......... If you do the bushings in the shock links like I did when I rebuilt my bike a couple of years ago, make sure you drill and put some zerk fittings in there then re-grease them every year. These bushings will dry out quick because of the elements that get splashed on them from the tire. Not to mention the sand, etc. that will help wear them out.
  5. Todd, you been lettin' Bubba work on the wiring? Sounds like he done let the smoke out of 'em!
  6. The VIN sticker on the low right frame below the clutch cover will give you the manufacturers date of assembly, mine is titled an 84 but was built in October of 83. Vin is JYA 41R000EA001262. Hope this helps......... Another way to check if it is an early 84 is to check and see if the vacuum line to the pressure sensor comes off below the front left carburetor or above it. Pull the left side cover off and check with a flashlight. I'm betting you have an 83 built in August going by the VIN of 008DA0000175. Check that sticker. THe only thing different between the 83's and the 84 & 85's i the way the vacuum comes off the carbs and the TCI
  7. You might try Snaggles old trick, put good pressure on it, have a LOT of padding laying around on the floor and let it sit over nite! He came out the next day and POOF it was on the floor! Seriously, glad to hear you're sending your unit in, almost the best upgrade you can do! I'll look forward to seeing it arrive, you can paypal me if you'd rather go that way.
  8. I for one will give Canada it's due, son and I watched the game while working on his car. Didn't understand a thing about it (kinda like soccer!) but it was fun to watch. Besides, it'll be awhile before they can gloat about anything else!!!!!!
  9. I gots one of those sittin' in the cabinet for "one of these days" installation!
  10. Forget the other junk. I believe in KISS. Now everyone should be thoroughly confused.... I've been sitting back being quiet, what you've done Jeff is duplicate what I suggested earlier, which is an illuminated switch that's on when the switch is off (same thing I use on my driving lights). Dan
  11. There is a great service manual available for download here in the first gen tech section, you're going to need the section about ohming out your pickup coils, then possibly checking your ignition module (TCI). You may even have some members down in your area that could possibly lend you a hand with the diagnoses. Welcome to the site, good luck finding the problem.
  12. Thank goodness I didn't fly to Hawaii today!
  13. My autozone still has it for 6.75 a can........... BTW, the $47.00 to yur door price comes out to $5.88 a can.........
  14. I would just look for a 12 volt indicating switch that glows when it's off. Assuming you are using a power circuit to feed the switch that comes off the ignition switch and is dead with the key off. That may be easiest for you. Just go to your local auto parts supplier and have them find you one.
  15. They make indicating switches that will glow when the load is turned off, or the relay you are using may have a set of normally closed (N/C) contacts on there. If not, just switch it out for one that does, then run the lead off of the N/C side up to your led. And go ahead and add some more lights!
  16. These MKI's are a pain to bleed the front left because there is no bleeder up at the neck joint. You've probably got an air bubble up there. Try pumping up the foot pedal quickly 3 or 4 times (then holding it down, might take two people unless you have really long arms!) and then cracking the front bleeder to see if you get fluid coming out at the caliper. If not, you may have blockage in the banjo bolt or the caliper itself. Good luck
  17. Good idea Jack, hey Jason, put the bike on the center stand, check the oil in the sight glass on the lower right hand side just below the water pump housing. It should only be 1/2 way up the glass. If it's overfilled, I would think it could do what Condor said. But definately I would run a compression check just for comparison. Good luck
  18. Have fun and be safe on your yearly "walkabout" Spear. Very happy that your sister can make it this year too!
  19. And I thought I was a glutten for punishment.......
  20. Guys don't need a bathroom to take care of that........ You've never seen the funnel in the corner of the garage???? :crackup::crackup:
  21. Dano

    Bub's Exhaust

    How do those dates work?
  22. Exhaust temps at that joint can run up to 400 degrees!
  23. You have your priorities all wrong, Hazen. You gotta let the bathroom go and get that bike blinged out!
  24. Heck with the frame and bucket, just send me the lamp! (Actually don't need it, some one else might tho) you're doing a yeomans job here Bob, keep it up!
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