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Dano

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Everything posted by Dano

  1. Condor, go to flatouts website (www.flatoutmotorcycles.com) , click on parts finder, then fill out your bikes info (year, model, etc.). Then find electric1 or electric2 on the pulldown list and find your part number on the fiche. I'm not sure which one of your bikes you're looking at, and they may have different part numbers for the different years. But, after thinking, it may be under suspension too. Just tryin' to help and take up more of your time (LOL) Dan
  2. Hayden was here in Indy this past Monday giving the new layout a test. Haven't heard the results........
  3. Definately have to have the correct gasket in there, as "dragging" will occur without it. Just scraping off the old gasket and using sealant will not do the job. Dan
  4. Looked it up under Flatouts fiche-- looks like the whole class system---$312.00 possibly so for that money. Dan
  5. Great video Strat, I too got cold today as my son had a double-header starting at 2. Got home at 7---- still frozen!!!!! Dan
  6. Congrats Oz, will get back on mine as soon as taxes done, probably by Tues. nite. I CAN"T WAIT!!!!!! Dan
  7. Don, just disconnect the other wiring and run a new Cat5e cable and be done with it. Trust me, (well, maybe just a little) you'll save a lot of time and trouble. If your house is older than 10 yrs, you probably don't have twisted pair in there. You probably already know that though, don't you! Glad you don't have to sit in front of the cafe' any longer! You never told us if the aentenna thawed out yet! Good luck, Dan
  8. Forgot to tell you that your "symptoms" is an indication that the fork is low or out of oil.
  9. If it was a "dark greenish" type fluid, rather thick, then it is fork oil and probably drained out of the fork. If you look at the bottom of the fork, you will notice Yamahas proportional valve assembly or anti-dive unit. Try to tighten the 2 screws on either side of the unit. If these are loose, your fork oil will drain out. Also look up under the unit for the veeeeeerrrry small dampening adjustment screw that should be in there. If its gone, fluid will drain right out. To check the level, read the online manual you will find in the 1st gen tech library here. Hopefully this will help you get started. Good luck, Dan
  10. Woz, if it were me, I would pull the left side cover off (loosen the bolts till they are almost out, then pop the cover loose, remove the bolts all the way and the cover will come off easy, your flywheel is a big magnet and will try to hold the stator which is attached to the cover), try spinning the small gears up to the left of the flywheel (may have to pull starter to do this). They should spin freely in clockwise direction but not spin in the other. The gear attached to the back of the flywheel (big round heavy drum) is your starter clutch. If it does not spin freely, then that is likely the problem. See previous posts on this problem. If it does spin freely, pull the clutch cover off and remove the clutch cover plate and the discs. Now try to turn the motor over by hand (with the plugs removed to release compression). If it still turns tight, then crank or rod bearings are dragging and you'll have to pull the motor. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. I believe your starter and the wiring is not the issue. Certainly had some problems there, but could have been brought about by the motor not turning easy enough. Try these 2 items and see what happens. Dan
  11. Just a thought, pull the clutch apart and try it. I once had a Kawi that had the basket freeze up to the housing and almost threw me overboard. At least you eliminate the tranny. Something is dragging in that motor. Good luck, Dan
  12. Was at a local indie bike store 5 months after getting my 84, saw a MK11 outside, looked around for who I thought it might be. Met Millman 37 that day, he turned me on to the site, been here ever since (much to the detriment of trying to get anything else done!). Great people, great technical help, only place I know that I can talk to Australia and Germany at the same time about the same subject with no bullc**p like politics and the such to deal with. Even carry on PM's with a certain member in Germany about Auto racing! Haven't been to any other sites and most likely won't! Thanks Don! Dan
  13. Geesh V, I thought I tore a lot off of the pile when I tore my bike down. Looks like you got a lot more than me to handle. Good luck! Dan
  14. I'd turn the tables and pull the fairing off of RandyA's bike--------he probably won't miss it!!!!! After all,,,,, he didn't know Squid had the side covers!!!!! LOL Dan
  15. You gotta remember, my bikes apart for maintenance right now!!!!!!!
  16. I agree, you may save having to grind your gears, or might even do that to prevent anything. Have fun with it!!! Dan
  17. Thanks guys, with the time available to work on it being small, it's taking awhile. But it is fun when I get to do it! That does give me plenty of time to think about it, though. Thanks for the words. Dan
  18. I might be able to sneek my fairing into the zoo, does it have to be the whole bike???????! Just tryin' to play!! Dan
  19. If you do the relay, I'll help in good ol' Indiana. We've got a guy down in Scottsburg (20 mi from Louisville, I'm in Indy, I'm sure we got people up by Chicago, heck that's almost half the journey right there! (I-65 trip) Dan
  20. Condor, sorry about the delay. Life and bills got in the way. Have you on the list for my extra funds, should be able to send by middle of next week. Hope this doesn't delay the works. Dan
  21. That's the plan. Shooting for the end of May. Got my son polishing chrome (gotta start 'em somewhere, huh?!), got a lot of side work getting in the way, but I gotta pay for this stuff, too. It'll go quicker now that I've got parts and I'm over this gear cutting phobia !!!!. I can start assembling things now. Dan
  22. Shorten up that gas tank and you'd have a good looking bobber!! Nice job!:clap2:
  23. Finally got up the courage to cut my 5th gear dogs today. Set it up in my drill press with an adjustable angle vise. I thought this might help keep it straight and I should be able to do the back cut also by angling the vise. Need to get a new stone first, will try that tomorrow night. I just rotated the gear and vice lightly around the stone (as it was turning, of course!) following the curve of the dog. Two dogs started at .0476, the other one was .0484 dimension across the widest part of the curved faces. Cut all three down to .0466 +/- .0001. Looked pretty good, and I believe all the rounded top is gone. Did not grind the other side (deceleration side) as I could not see any rounding on them. Will also try to backcut the slots with the vise as I can duplicate the exact angle I used on the dogs. Thought it might be easier than doing "freestyle" with the Dremel tool. Here are some measurements on the old and new thrust washer and clips and the clip groove in the driven axle: Plate washer: Old 1.98mm thick 25.23mm ID 4.38mm wide (ID to OD) New 2.02mm thick 25.28mm ID 4.38mm wide Thrust clips Old 3.06mm thick 6.67mm width groove cut in by wear .85mm New 3mm thick 6.5mm width Groove on shaft where split clips go-- 3.22mm So, I guess, there is meant to be about .15-.2mm play in the groove where the split clips go? I hope it's ok, 'cause I really don't want to spend $225.00 on a new axle. Any thoughts? I can't figure out why they would make the "new" split clips thinner than the old. Couldn't see much rounding on the pressure side (outboard) of the groove in the axle. Here are some pics Hey, I work in this garage, ain't got time to keep the bench lickety split clean!!!!!
  24. Come on 86er, you know a 2nd genner cain't do a burn-out!!!!! They only wish they could!!!!!! LOL Dan
  25. If you ain't tinkerin' or workin' on it to make it better, then you ain't havin no FUN!!!!!! SOmetimes I think we have as much fun working on them than riding them! Oh yeah, you 2nd genners are included too!!
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