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Everything posted by Dano
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There are a couple of TCI's on ebay right now, search keywords "Yamaha Venture Parts". But if you've got strong spark, how about fuel flow,ie: plugged up fuel filter, screen on tank plugged up, fuel pump on the verge of done. Pull the false tank cover off, locate the fuel line coming up from the tank to the carb rack, remove it and put in a clear glass jar. Turn on the key and you should get a good stream out of the hose. Don't leave it on too long, though, you don't want to overflow your jar! This will eliminate the fuel supply, or find it quicker. Dan
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You better watch out for the 2nd genners, Bongo, they're gonna claim you're just like a 1st gen bike, claiming your parts are falling off!!!!! Seriously, I know how this has been weighing on your mind and what a relief it is to know it's not going to be as bad as it could have been. We're all in this together with ya! Dan
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Sorry Snoot, just got back on and saw your post. Here is the one I built. For the 30 mm socket to pass through, you need a 2-1/2" hole through your board, the brackets are approx. 4-1/2" inside to inside. I just used a couple of drywall screws to attach to a piece of 1/2" plywood that I cut down. Whatever is handy will work. Needs to be about 6" wide and 2' or so long. Butttt, I think if your tranny is in gear, you might be able to bust it loose without the board. My luck is, if I don't use the board, I'll break something else. The board is necessary if the motor is out. Good luck Dan Ok, once I got this brain fart out and remembered to resize my pics so they would post,,,,,
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Sorry Snoot, just got back on and saw your post. Here is the one I built. For the 30 mm socket to pass through, you need a 2-1/2" hole through your board, the brackets are approx. 4-1/2" inside to inside. I just used a couple of drywall screws to attach to a piece of 1/2" plywood that I cut down. Whatever is handy will work. Needs to be about 6" wide and 2' or so long. Butttt, I think if your tranny is in gear, you might be able to bust it loose without the board. My luck is, if I don't use the board, I'll break something else. The board is necessary if the motor is out. Good luck Dan
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I could bring along the shim kit w/ valve compression tool, that way we could just show people how easy it is. Don, do you have a 32mm socket and/or 1/2" drive ratchet?? Need a set of feeler guages, too. I could bring both, but not much room as I'm on an 84 w/out a trailer. Dan
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Poor Man's Brake lamp and turn signal upgrade
Dano replied to KiteSquid's topic in Poor Man Tips and Fixes
Informative article, Kite. I am going to try some LEDs we use in the sign business on my bike (free) and will have to look at the resistor thingy. Don't know if I'll have to use it as these work directly off of 12 volt power supply, instantaneously. Will let you know, but it'll be a while for I get a chance to try. WIll look at the bulbs you used, though. Thanks, Dan -
Get a 30mm 1/2" drive socket. better yet, go to harbor freight and just buy the impact metric set that goes up to 32mm. You will use almost all of them, and you'll need the 32mm if you ever need to check your valve adjustment or turn the motor over by hand. Also, check out Scott Martins post on building your own clutch basket holder, don't try anything else (such as a wrench or screwdriver between the bolt posts, don't ask me how I know this!!). Just pick up a couple of 1/8" thick or thicker short (1") shelf bracket and a piece of 1x6 or 2x6 wood. You'll need a holesaw of about 2" or bigger, also. Good luck and ask, ask, ask!!!! Dan
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Yep, too much coincidence not to be.
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1st Gen. Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Dano replied to MiCarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
DOubt if it's cracked, mine was seeping, too. Had all the paint by the sidestand switch eaten off. My seal inside was so hard I had to cut it off. So I'm looking for some improvement. Dust seal was worn out with a big hole in it, too. Dan- 36 replies
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1st Gen XVZ Idle Mixture Screws
Dano replied to fmandcac's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Get that done, get ahold of some of our guys down there, get it carbtuned, colortuned (if you can) and most definately Synched up. Then sit back, hold on, shut your mouth (you can still smile), grab a big handfull of right wrist action, and have some fun!!!! Oh, you might have to wait on your wife if she's riding that MK11 bike, as she won't be able to keep up with you!!!! You might be careful when you hit second gear though, as you're not yet sure about the dreaded 2nd gear issue with your 84. If you hear it jumping out, get off the throttle quick. If you take it easy in 2nd, it could last a long time till you get up the courage to fix it. I just did mine, if you're mechanically inclined, not a big deal!!! Good luck, Dan -
Congrats to your boys, fixit, we are all so very proud of them. My son is 15 and I've had a couple of conversations with him about the military. Mom, on the other hand,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Dan
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1st Gen. Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Dano replied to MiCarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Micarl, you have to pull the cover to get the screws out, they're 5mm allen heads. I picked up a set of 6" long ones with 3/8's rachet head on them at Harbor Freight. Second best investment I made on this bike, as they come in handy. I had to "drop" mine in from the bottom side, (motor was still upside down, I got smart on this one). You'll have to get it out through the bottom, and may have to "pop" it out with a small pry bar or something. It's a tight fit. I blew mine out of the cup with compressed air, but I had to finish getting it out by prying around the seal groove because it would not come right out. Make sure to clean all the "gunk" out of there, and take a small pick to get all the hard stuff out of the grooves. Took me about an hour to clean mine up. Make sure to lube up the new seal with Brake fluid prior to installing it. Oh, it's a rascal to stretch over the piston, too. Good luck and let me know if it improves your clutch action, as I'm still 2-3 weeks away from that first ride!! Hope this wasn't too much info for ya. Dan- 36 replies
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BJ, when you take it off, you will definately notice a "burnt" spot on the windings, this is where it is shorted out. BTW, does anybody on here know where we can send in our old stators for rewire or re-cycle? I hate to just throw it away, just needs to be rewound to put into service again. Might even save some money in the long run getting it rebuilt and on the shelf for a spare. Dan
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This guy has these on ebay all the time, usually end up going for around 250. Great exhaust system, never had one but heard they are nice. Just watch it for another week. It will go up. Dan
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HHHMMMM, now he's just another 2nd genner who we'll have to help figure out how to fix his bike, too! That's for your pain of letting your best bike go down the driveway:sick: Dan
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First ad-Venture will be, 1000+ miles: advice?
Dano replied to FutureVentures's topic in Watering Hole
I was wondering when you were going, or if you were just gonna keep talking about it!!!!!:whistling: Good luck on your ride! Dan -
BJ, went through the same thing with my bike. Replace the stator, it's gone. Rectifier may be OK, but I found mine was shot also. RMStator is the best for the money and shipping. If you are running or are thinking of running a lot of lights, check with Rick at www.buckeyeperformance.com . He carries a high output stator that gives you more power for the "goodies". I believe it was $239.00 when I saw it last night on his website. It's not always a bad idea to pick up an extra rectifier from ebay, 35-50 bucks. They can go out without a warning. Since you have the meters, go ahead and check yours. The plug is right next to the stator plug, yours may have 4 wires or 5 wires, I'm not sure on your year. Mines an 84 and has 5 wires. You can check it at the plug. The unit itself is mounted inboard of the swingarm on the left side of the swingarm. Check your manual on removing the stator, but here's something the book don't tell you. Leave 4 screws in the cover, almost all the way out (kinda on the corners). When you pop the cover loose, this will keep the stator from holding on to the flywheel (magnet to steel). Once the cover is loose, you can remove the screws and finish the job. Do the same on the install, makes it much easier. And DON"T FORGET THE NEW GASKETs for the left side cover and the middle gear cover, as the middle gear cover has to come off too. Any more questions, feel free to ask. Been there, done that! Dan
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Brad, I have noticed that approx. 1/2 of them were 280's, have found them down to 278, most of the other ones were 285, 288, 290, 292 & 295's!! I would like to get that deal on my forks for 150, I'll have 164 in rebuild, 55 in Progressive springs (on the way!), and Rick at Buckeye Performance is quoting me 125 for the parts kit to rebuild. Don't know if I need all the parts, though. But I can't tell because he won't give me part #'s. Anybody got a list of what they used when they rebuilt theirs? Dan
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Mine are 25 mm shims. Nobody around here carries them, all they have are the newer ones where the buckets are upside down. Gotta order them, I guess. Flatout is 7.95 a piece. Dan
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Sure thing GW, I'll take pics tonite, now that I understand it, it's easy.
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Done with the measurements--- got BuddyRich's kit,,,,,, seems like everybody needed 265,270 and 275 shims. Got everything around it, WHOLE bunch of 280's (seems to be common from factory). However, gonna have to order a couple 265's and about 4- 270's to get my tolerances correct. Other shims available in the kit put it too tite or too loose (sound like a Nascar driver!!). If nobody's got any, I'm gonna order them when I get back from Baseball game. Dan