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Dano

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  1. Dano
    Don, I notice the header is back to normal, kinda had me cornfused at first and figured out "portal" was "home", etc. DOn't see the ad banner up top. Haven't had a chance to look around yet, but then again, you are immensly smarter than most of us when it comes to this, and I'm sure that whatever you do will be great. As it is with most projects, takes a minute to work out the bugs. Looking forward to meeting you on the 7th. Dan
  2. Dano
    Is Don starting to sttttuuttuuuttter now as well? LOL Dan PS Don, noticed some new stuff already, how about a primmer?
  3. Dano
    Same goes from here, jt, sorry that you and your better half are going thru this right now. Dan
  4. Dano
    Oh, forgot the most important thing around here------- we need pictures!!!! of your scoot, even you and the family's ok with us!!!!!!
  5. Dano
    Saw a lot of stuff for MK1 and MK11 bikes on ebay last nite. If anybody needs anything, check it out!
  6. Dano
    Same thing happened to me on the pin, you might want to change the contraption that holds them in, when I tore mine apart, that collar that came over the pin was damaged, didn't want to take a chance on that again (125 miles from home when it did it). Looks like something on the clutch housing was rubbing on it. Dan
  7. Dano

    Vin Number

    Dano replied to GS51's topic in Watering Hole

    If the previous owner said it was the second one off the production line, I bet the first one went to the Yamaha Corporate stable, much like GM, Ford and all the carmakers do. You have got a rare piece of history there, treat it as such! You never know what it may fetch in the future. I hereby recommend that we name this one the MK1a, as it's surely the first one out the door!!!!! Mines an 84, produced in 10/83 (born-on date!) with serial # 1262. Great buy!! Dan
  8. Dano
    One other thing about the rattle, check your bearings while you're in there, might be making the noise. Squeeze will probably come on here overnite (for us) and give you insight on that. He's 6 hours ahead of east coast, 7 for you. He's a VMax NUT!!
  9. Dano
    you're only going to "cut" on 1 gear, which is the 5th gear. It has 3 "dogs" on there. Make sure you replace the valve cover gaskets and the bolt gasket on there while you've got the motor out. They will leak eventually and it's easier this way. How about checking valve adjustments? Easier to do now!! Dan Oops, my bad, yes you're cutting 2 gears, it's the slots on the 2nd gear, didn't read it right the first time!!!!! Sounds like you've had this bike for awhile.
  10. Dano
    Ehrich, you need to bring that puppy over to Freebirds on June 7th, plenty of folks to ride with, you got a couple up by South Bend that are coming over the tollway....... Might as well go into that (our) pool head first!!!! Congrats on your first ride, it looked like a lot of fun!! Dan
  11. Dano
    Waiting on shims for the valves, springs and parts for the forks, frame sent to the sandblasters yesterday and pick up in a day or 2. Sending forks in to be rebuilt, hope to have frame, etc. painted by the weekend, then LET THE REASSEMBLY BEGIN!!!!!! dAN
  12. Dano
    I know where to go for a cold one on Friday night then!!!!! Dan
  13. Dano
    Your lines are full of air, and pumping the handle is not creating enough air pressure to open the valve on the speed-bleedr. Take out the speedbleeder, watch your fluid level in the reservoir. It should start going down all its own, add more as necessary, and don't overfill when you're done. You've just got to get fluid back down in the slave cylinder b4 the speedbleeders work. Next time, just crack the bleeder, start pumping you handle and add fluid as it goes down, till you see clear fluid come out of the hose on your bleeder. Gosh, I wonder how many they've sold to us here on this site? Dan
  14. Dano
    You're not looking at much of an undercut, I think (?!) I went about .01mm from top to bottom. Check my posts under 2nd gear measurements & cuts (?), something like that. I've got them posted there. It doesn't take much, it just helps lock in the gears. Biggest thing is to make sure that all 3 dogs are equal in width and square at the top before undercutting--refer to RandyA's post on the subject. As far as the groove in the end of the driven axle, I was concerned about that also,(thread- thrust washer measurements(?)). I was told by Squeeze (our German super-tech- you'll like him, read his posts), that there will be a larger gap than before, but the plate washer that goes behind there is slightly thicker than the old one. Once again, in my posts about measurements. It's a pretty cut and dry operation, 2 different ways to mate the cases together. Everyone and the book says to lay the gears in the top case and then set your lower on there and match up the forks, but I had my gears in the lower, they didn't move when I turned it upside down, and I just set mine on there. The book is totally wrong when it comes to putting it back together, so just use common sense. Also, check your water pump impellor when you take it off, if it's plastic, replace it. If it's metal, it's already done. Once again---- oil seals and o-rings!!!! Replace 'em while you're in there! Dan
  15. Dano
    1st off, are you handy with tools? You can square up the "dogs" on 5th gear (#13 on parts fiche), then undercut them. You can also undercut the slot on second gear (#14) to help keep it from doing it again. I just got done putting my motor back together after doing this. I have several posts on the subject, including how to use a drill press to aid in doing the undercut. Remember, if you replace the 2 gears, you also have to replace their pinion gears too ( #6- 5th gear pinion). To prevent this from happening again, replace the plate washer (#5) and the thrust washers (#6 (x2)) located at the end of the final drive (pinion) gear. You will find these 2 pieces on the "middle drive gear" page. Also plan on replacing oil seals, etc. 'Cause you're in there, anyway! If you need a list, let me know and I'll get it to you. Go online to www.flatoutmotorcycles.com and get your parts there. Best prices and service on the net. DO NOT ORDER OVER THE COUNTER AT YOUR DEALER!!!!!! You will pay too much! If you order, tell them you are with Venturerider.org. Chris will take care of you!! Good luck, and YOU CAN DO THIS!! Dan BTW, welcome to your new home for the next several years!!!
  16. Dano
    You already know the answer to B. It's never easy when you gotta do something like that. But, you should only have to remove the rear subframe, which is not that much. Did you try and pull off the fuel hose and check pump output? Might as well pull the carbs and do them too. You only have to remove the lower fairings to remove them, not too bad. Just think, you can be an expert (or smart***) like us after you get this done! Then it's one less thing to worry about. On the tach? Might be tied into the charging situation. Good luck, Dan
  17. Dano
    Wow, I thought this thread was goin' somewhere else!!!!!!:cool10:
  18. Dano
    Cool, been watching this thread from the dark recesses...........................
  19. Dano
    Sure, but is yours worth more than ours????
  20. Dano
    Congrats on gettin yur baby back home where she belongs. Great that all the repairs worked for ya! Rain'll be gone b4 you know it and you'll forget all about the small amount of time you've been waiting!!!! Dan
  21. Dano
    What, with no football to watch on Monday night, what are we gonna do?!?!?!?!?!?!? Oh wait, only 15 minutes, I can clean some chrome!!!!! Thanks Don, you're the greatest!!!!!!!! Dan
  22. Dano
    1 lucky guy, that's a beautiful ride!!! BTW, battery might be dead on the blackberry, too. Dan
  23. Dano
    There are a couple of TCI's on ebay right now, search keywords "Yamaha Venture Parts". But if you've got strong spark, how about fuel flow,ie: plugged up fuel filter, screen on tank plugged up, fuel pump on the verge of done. Pull the false tank cover off, locate the fuel line coming up from the tank to the carb rack, remove it and put in a clear glass jar. Turn on the key and you should get a good stream out of the hose. Don't leave it on too long, though, you don't want to overflow your jar! This will eliminate the fuel supply, or find it quicker. Dan
  24. Dano
    You better watch out for the 2nd genners, Bongo, they're gonna claim you're just like a 1st gen bike, claiming your parts are falling off!!!!! Seriously, I know how this has been weighing on your mind and what a relief it is to know it's not going to be as bad as it could have been. We're all in this together with ya! Dan
  25. Dano

    clutch basket

    Dano replied to a topic in General Tech Talk

    Sorry Snoot, just got back on and saw your post. Here is the one I built. For the 30 mm socket to pass through, you need a 2-1/2" hole through your board, the brackets are approx. 4-1/2" inside to inside. I just used a couple of drywall screws to attach to a piece of 1/2" plywood that I cut down. Whatever is handy will work. Needs to be about 6" wide and 2' or so long. Butttt, I think if your tranny is in gear, you might be able to bust it loose without the board. My luck is, if I don't use the board, I'll break something else. The board is necessary if the motor is out. Good luck Dan Ok, once I got this brain fart out and remembered to resize my pics so they would post,,,,,
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