oconeedan

Helmet, they are suggesting to swap a 2357 where the 1157 is, yes it will fit right in. It is a "tad" brighter. Dan

I'm still getting familiar with my " new to me" 07 RSTD. What is the "electronic control unit" that I see in parts break downs? I know these bikes have carb, manual chokes, etc. So, what do these units control? Are there any improvements in performance that can be made by tinkering, like a power chip or messing with the timing? My bike runs great as it is, but you know...inquiring minds want to know... Thanks in advance! Dan

No doubt the Custom Dynamics is good. I do have an added flashing LED light, I don't know the brand. It was on my bike when I bought it, and it's bright and attention grabbing. But just cruising down the road, only tail light is on, that's why I wanted something brighter. I may buy it (very likely), but first I plan to add a trunk. Very likely with lighting. The front turn signals are adequate, I was just thinking they may not be as obvious since I have a light bar. Now, I remember that I had 2357 bulbs in my last bike. This bike is new to me, still tinkering with it.

Aren't the nibs at different angles, than 180 degrees? I may have to file off 2 nibs. Thanks for your input, I'll look at the 2057 bulbs. Dan

It would be a wise question to ask before buying. They install these vents in their windshields, and they sell shields made to fit our mounting brackets and hardware, so would have a similar shape and angle. The Goldwings have quite a bit of angle, sloping more than our upright shields. If it is the same vent, the vent would sit at a funny angle.

I see that Clearview Shields sells their vent separately for 70 bucks. I am thinking that it would fit our factory shield better than one made for a Goldwing. I may give that a try. Dan

I feel the standard bulbs in my 07 RSTD are a bit weak, especially the tail light. I'm thinking of replacing them with led replacement bulbs. The led bulbs on the shelf at local auto store don't look any brighter, but it could be the "try it now" battery in the bulb package is not a full 12v. Does anyone have experience with these bulbs? What about the stupid 3 prong bulbs at the front turn signals, why would Yamaha put in a non standard bulb? I may see if I can re-slot the socket to accept a standard 2 prong bulb like a 1157, using a dremel tool. I don't want to spend 90 bucks on a specialty made brake light bulb insert, like I've seen on other posts, simply replace bulbs. Will the stock flasher work with the leds, or do I need to upgrade that to a solid state flasher?

Understand, that is what I was thinking, and planning to do. Timely post. I may have room under the seat for this. It will be switched, I want nothing hot all of the time, unless it's a power port, and that would be wired separately. This block, I'm planning to add leds, other small things. I already have a horn and relay, may rewire it through the block and keep it clean. Dan

Can you give details on your power block? Where did you tap into for your block, simply a wire for a light? Is the power block switched on by a relay, so everything on that block runs through the relay? Thanks, Dan

First try plugging into a different outlet. If there is a weak connection anywhere, it will do what you are describing. If it does, you may have a weak gfi, or minimal capacity on that circuit. Compressors draw a lot when starting.

A wee bit off topic, are we? We used to stop by Fresh Air BBQ back in the early 70's, on the way to some hunting property. Nothing like the good sandwiches and ice cold glass Coke bottles pulled out of the shaved ice cooler. I haven't eaten there in years, as I don't pass through that area any more. Back on topic...I hope your medical challenge is controlled, the thought of dropping out is downright scary. Dan

Oh that is aweful! I hope that doesn't happen again, sounds like you had a very close call. Dan

Those are great looking horns, better looking than the Stebel that I have. My Stebel horn came with a diagram for the relay. It's a common relay and easy to do. There are 4 contacts, or tabs. One from the battery positive post. One to the horn. One to a ground. And the last one from the wire from the original horn, to actuate it. For the horn, the positive comes from the relay, the other comes from the original ground. Maybe someone here can draw it out. It is a 5 dollar part that is worth the time. I put mine under the right side cover. Here's my horn: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j117/OconeeDan/DSCN9219.jpg

Thanks Naturbar. I was thinking the ad was for the mount plus the trunk, and the trunk doesn't match my bike, I simply skipped over it. You said it's power coated, the photos of your mount don't do it justice. Dan

I used a belt sander to get the edge straight, not wavy from the bandsaw. Then a simple block of wood, wrapped in sandpaper. Started with 220 grit, then progressively finer up to 1000. At times only used the sand paper in my hand, no block, to make sure a nice rounded edge. Finished with old rag and 3M Perfect It II rubbing compound. Was happy after that and didn't need to go to polishing compound. Dan

I couldn't get used to looking through the "new to me" 07 RSTD. I tried it several weeks. On foggy mornings, when riding through a warm pocket of air, it would fog up instantly on inside and outside, leaving me blind. I skipped riding to work the other day, knowing it was dense fog. That's out of character, for me. So yesterday, I trimmed it down to around nose height. Just barely looking over it, I can still slump in my seat and get behind it completely if I come across some hard rain. A bit of increased wind and noise, as expected. I may get a Clearview replacement shield the same height, with the recurve. And maybe a vent. All I can say is, I'm a bit more comfortable looking over the shield. Details, cut with a band saw, smoothed with belt grinder, then hand sanded and polished the edges. It looks like a factory finish. It took as long to lay out the cut line, as it did to do the work. Dan

Good suggestions above. What about if you want a plug that you can disconnect when you remove a tank or saddle bag? Would be nice to have water proof plugs for that.

Well, I think at Jan 1, I had around 116,000 or so. Then sold the bike (2000 Shadow ACE Tourer) in Feb. with around 119,000. My new to me RSTD has only 11,000 and some change. But I'll have it over 35k by the end of the year. Dan

The first thing I would do is drain the gas and put in fresh gas. I know you used stabil and sea foam. But that's the first thing I would do. Dump the gas in your car or truck, providing you don't see water in it. If it is still not running right after a tank of gas, add another shot of sea foam, then another tank of gas after that. It wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and look, maybe clean them. If you replace them, I liked the iridiums in my old Shadow. My Shadow HATED to be parked. Like it was pouting. Dan

I don't have a hitch, and have never heard of a mount like that. Does it block the rear brake light? Thanks for your suggestion. Dan

I'm going to add a trunk to my 07 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. Not as easy as it sounds. I've been kicking around ideas of how to mount a trunk (and what trunk to buy). My first thought is to just cut the sissy bar off of the rack. It's a good sturdy rack, and it's quick release. Bolt the trunk to the rack somehow. But I am also thinking about a Wompus Racks, just buying one and using that, but they are pricey. Money does matter to me. Buying a Venture trunk, complete, and finding a mount, is adding up to big $$$. So...before I cut up my stock sissy bar and rack, I thought I would see if anyone was interested in buying it, to help offset the cost of a Wompus Rack. I've been looking at used trunks on ebay, including new trunks that are around 150 bucks (I'm a bit concerned about quality), older BMW trunk, older Voyager trunk, etc. I'd like to keep cost down to 350 or less. My bike is black, but I can shoot paint. I don't mind scratches, but don't want rusty hardware. If anyone has a better solution, I'm all ears. Thanks, Dan

Never heard of Baggershield. But just checked it out. Nice shields but all for fairings. Nothing for RSTD. Thanks, Dan

So...farm1810 doesn't see much difference with the vent, and xv1100se likes the vent a lot. I'm considering the Clearview shield with vent, or without. I'm a shorty, and was thinking I need about 3" less than the stock shield height, I'm having a hard time looking through the shield when it's foggy or rainy. I'm thinking the recurve shield will put the air stream a tad higher. Dan

Yes, do a search for Licks helmets. Your quality helmets like Arai, are going to be quieter. I once had a FF Shoei that was the quietest helmet I have used. I dislike FF helmets, they are bad when you have to sneeze or get a sip of coffee, or walk into a gas station. My bad weather helmet is the HJC IS Max flip face. It is the noisiest helmet I have had. I am sure others are quieter.

I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to chime in. I have Gerbing S2 battery heated gloves. They work well. BUT, have a smaller cuff and it's hard to get over my jacket sleeves. My jacket is not overly bulky. I actually have to work them over my sleeves. I complained to them and the seller (The Warming Store), their answer was that the newer S3 gloves have larger cuffs. I like them but would not buy them again. I would consider the S3 gloves if they have a return if not happy policy. Again, the gloves work well, but have dinky cuffs.