schemer

Thanks Keven, I did not and won't drill anything. These are not my carbs and so far the parts prices are scary enough to rebuild them. I will double check that pilot are jet #2 but I am sure it is open. Do you know the size of the opening on the stub in the center of the bottom of the carbs right next to the main and pilot jets? There is a small diameter hole and although I can blow air thru it, I am not sure if I can poke a guitar string through it. In other words, what size is that hole supposed to be? Thanks, schemer

Ok, I will do it like that then. I read somewhere that over time the floats can age and become heavier (even when not filling with fuel) and you could adjust to one extreme that would be safer than the other. Just like adjusting valves .001 looser than tighter as it is going to wear to the tighter spec anyhow. Also, the spring on the OEM needles is rather wimpy and it closes really easy and that is why V7Goose came up with his method. Thanks, schemer

Pete, I had the carb bodies in an ultrasonic cleaner when I built them. I did not do much to the slides as far as cleaning because they are $150 each and I did not want to ruin them. I will focus on hand cleaning the slides and re-examining the bores when I do that. They don't always stick but if you push them up with your finger, sometimes one or two seem to want to hang. I don't know if with the vibration of a running engine if that issue may be a non issue or not? Thanks, schemer

1999 RSV black plastic 1-piece carb slides. Are there any mods for the hole size (drill larger) for the bleed off for sluggish returning slides? Thanks, schemer

A. I am setting/checking the float level according to the measurement methods found here but one guy (V7Goose) shows checking it with the carbs on an angle with a 2x4 holding them so the "pin" in the needle is extended but touching the tab. B. The other guy (tazmocycle) with the video shows the carbs flat and level and using the same measurement and that would be with the "pin" depressed. He says 8 - 9mm and he says 9mm is better. When I check mine with method "B" I have the correct reading at 9mm. I measured the amount the "pin" actually moves when depressed and it is just under 1mm (0.035 inch). Am I close enough or need to bend all the tabs? Is 0.035 thousandths of an inch enough to cause trouble? The way it is now is leaning more towards the 8mm measurement using method "A". Thanks, schemer

I just ordered some OEM ones along with those stupid square cut 0-rings under the main jet. The main problem with the carb's was they were pretty gunked up from sitting and when I started on them the middleman was very worried about parts and prices. Those are the kind of people I seem to get to rebuild stuff for. Anyhow, I told him the o-rings were proprietary and needed to get the correct size(s) and in some cases that could not be done using aftermarket o-ring suppliers and I wasn't going to be doing them twice because of a "close enough" o-ring. Anyhow, when I pulled the first carb apart I though that was enough to give me an idea of the minimum o-rings I needed. That was my first mistake. The first carb came apart ok aside from the brittle o-rings on the fuel transfer tubes and the usual ones inside. I didn't know about the "square cross sectioned o-ring" under the main jet but read on another forum where they said they didn't see why a regular round cross section would not work, so that is the only one I cheated on. Mainly because they are $5.00 each x 4 and are very tiny. But when I started tearing apart the other 3 carbs the seats were stuck so bad I ended up using pliers to get them out. I didn't hurt the inside and thought they would be ok but I told the guy I would really like to replace them. He said lets just see if they work. They leaked. I had replaced the needles with K&L parts as they came FREE (in my mind) with the bowl gasket kit I bought from ebay from a most reputable seller named George. The gaskets for the bowls were also K&L. Anyhow, I found the best deal I could after 8 hours of googling and bought the parts...all OEM. Thanks, schemer

MiCarl, I know the K&L's are made by Keyster. So with a float adjustment they are ok to use or better to stick with the OEM parts from the Yamaha dealer? I already have replaced all the o-rings and float bowl o-ring. Person wanted to do it without buying all the parts I recommended so the needles and seats are the originals but I did change the o-rings on the seats. Leaks though. Thanks, schemer

When trying to find parts for the carb's I am working on (1999 Royal Star 1300) and the high prices for OEM I was wondering if the K&L needle valve assembly or kit is ok to use or should I go with the driect OEM part for these 4 carbs? Thanks, schemer

Good video but my floats look different. My manual I bought is electronic and shows the adjustment method with a clear tube. The one I am working on is a 1999 Royal Star and that is all the owner told me and I have just the carb's. When I look up parts for it the microfiche for the 1999 Yamaha ROYAL STAR BOULEVARD (XVZ13AL) is the one it looks like except the carb heaters are not shown in this pic. schemer

Hi Guys, Old post I see but I am working on a set of carb's for a 1999 Royal Star 1300. I have already build them but I was curious too about a dry setting for the floats. Does anybody have that info? Also, being I already build and assembled the 4 carb's I should be able to check and set the floats with the wet method on the bench ok as long as I get the carb's level? Thanks, schemer