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Carbon_One

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Everything posted by Carbon_One

  1. With bad back history I'm not taking the chance. Last time I pulled a muscle I could hardly move or sit without pain for about a week. Nope not gonna do that again if it can be avoided. Larry
  2. And the winner is -- http://www.boltonhardware.com/catego...wivel-head.php After researching all I could find I felt this one matched my needs the best with the features I wanted so it's already on a truck heading here from California. Cost was an extra $25 cause I'm having it delivered curbside with a liftgate truck so I can wheel it into the garage with a dolly. At close to 200 lbs I'm not picking it up. Thanks to all for their help & suggestions. Larry
  3. That's a real back breaker to move. Hire a moving company to handle it for you. Looks like that one is made tough with lots of heavy casting. Larry
  4. I did replace the guide bearings a while back by doing just that letting the bearing house match em up. They weren't cheap either for such little things! Larry
  5. Good motor. It needs a drive pully, output shaft, seals, and bearings. Going to take too long to get parts and as old as it is may not even be available. I really need a saw asp so will buy a new one. If I can locate parts I'll fix it and sell it later depending on what it costs to repair. May cost more than its worth for all I know. Larry
  6. No problem
  7. Wrong type but thanks for the help anyhow. Larry
  8. As much as it would be nice to have a bigger garage I don't think that'll happen. I've expanded twice already over the years and running out of room. Don't think I really want to wrestle with city hall anymore either. It was a PIA getting the last addition done. Larry
  9. I'm leaning that way a bit myself Brad. Besides the bigger motor, it also has the verticle table adapter. And I did use that feature on the HF that died on me at times. The Bolton also has the exact same specs & are nearly identical. Could well be made by the same factory with different badging. I do have a good 1hp motor from the HF if needed thou. I stopped in at Harbor Freight today to check out theirs at half the price. WOW talk about poor quality. The new red models (I have a green one that's about 15 years old) are sad to say the least when comparing the fit & finishes. I would spend the extra money on this one over the HF model -- http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622 or maybe this one which I can get locally - http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGPTSRIM?PMITEM=RF67RF128&PARTPG=CGPTLMXI&PAMENU=&PMLFNO=10_01_011_001 So Basicly it's a toss up of the 4 links listed. But I am leaning towards the 1st two due to the extra size & features. Larry
  10. I don't think so Jay. You know my garage isn't anywhere big enough for a saw that size. So far any used sources I've found for saws they were just to big, old, or costly. Larry
  11. I'm on my 4th seat conversion looking for that magic butt solution myself. Original seat was the Midnight studded seats Next was the Rick Bulter mod done by Rick Next was a stock pillow top Current seat is the stock Midnight with a high density foam added. Like a couple others here my butt bones would start aching after 2-300 miles. Rick's seat mod for me was too soft and I felt like I was bottoming out much like the stock seat did. The pillow top was an improvement but not by much. Last week I took the cover off and removed the foam Rick uses. I could see then why I bottomed out so easily as it compresses next to nothing. I use an exercise pad purchased from either Walmart or KMart (forget which at the moment) for the arm rest pads I make. It's about a 1/2" thick, high denisity grey foam. For the arm rests I use 2 layers. Ok back to seats -- I removed the foam Rick uses and installed the grey pad foam, shaped it to the seat and reinstalled the cover. WOW what a difference that made. I think this mod will solve my seat/butt issuses now. I've only done some local rides so far so haven't had any long distance trials yet. I'm hoping to take a 3 day trip as soon as I get time & a weather break here. Then I'll report back on my seat mod. The next step would be a Russll Daylong seat perhaps. Larry
  12. My cheapo HF bandsaw finally bit the dust over the weekend so now its time to replace it. Anyone here have a Grizzly brand saw care to comment on quaility, model, etc. After looking thru their web site I'm considering the G96742 model - http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw-w-Swivel-Head/G9742 I've also looked at this one online - http://www.boltonhardware.com/category/bolton-tools/saws/band-saws/horizontal-vertical-combination-bandsaws/5-inch-x-6-inch-metal-cutting-bandsaw-with-swivel-head.php Jet model saws were nice too but averaging an extra $250-300. It seems once you get past the basic 4x6 HF types costs go up rapidly. As much metal as I cut I'm wanting something with decent quality without breaking the bank. Larry
  13. As Carlos says, the parts drawing showed the lower bracket on the wrong side of the bike. And backwards at that. Leaving only about an 1" of freeplay before the swingarm bottomed out on the bracket. Larry
  14. Thanks for sharing those pics. I know I've got some stashed around here somewhere too. Might just be time to look em up. Yea I can relate to that too Midnightventure. Even today I should take more pics than I do. Larry
  15. My experince has been the complete opposite of your Wing friends windshield. My 1st Clearview shattered when I dropped the bike leaving several sharp jagged edges on what was still left on the bike. That one was a clear wide tall model. I replaced it with a 2nd Clearview and added tint to the order. When I reviewed the F4 shields I was impressed enought about the abuse they could take and reported clairity I decided to try one. My impression is that the F4 is more flexable than the Clearview since I notice the shield moving about under extremely windy conditions. My Cleaview doesn't flex no where near as much. F4 replaced it under warranty because there was a hairline crack from a vent corner about 3/8-1/2" long. I wasn't too worried about it as the crack was only on one side of the shield. After contacting about it F4 sent me a replacement and even included a return shipping label. They went above and beyound customer service in my opinion. I will say that while I had the Clearview shield on I was happy with the performance of it. For now I will stay with the F4. Larry
  16. I'll go along with Bob here as well. I've had 2 Clearview shields (tallest & widests w/vents, one with tint) and loved them over the stock Yamaha shield. I'm now going on my 2nd year of the F4 shield and do think it has a slight edge. The durability, extra width, clearness has sold me on it. This one is also the wide,tall w/vent model. Wife gets no buffeting either. Larry
  17. I would look for a stainless steel band type. Something like this ---> http://www.jegs.com/c/Exhaust-Clamps-Hangers/11527/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=3824112851&sendroikwd=band+exhaust+clamp&gclid=CN2a8PCmz7ACFUSK4AodK2zrZA They look good too. Just put the bolt clamp part on the inside. Larry
  18. Ya long time ago. Before triking it. I just decided to go back to a stock mirror and this one had some scruff marks on it from a previous fall. Thus checking for a nicer undamaged one is all. Larry
  19. Welcome back Bob. It's good to know what ails you so that you can do some follow ups getting your health back on track. Hope by the weekends end you are back to normal. (Is that possible?) Larry
  20. Wow Bob that was fast. So I take it your home now? You got to quit scaring us you know. I'll pm you my address. Larry
  21. Anyone here have a stock 2nd gen left hand mirror they're not using? Larry
  22. Joe and I have been talking about a cross bar for his RSTD since Bob and Snaggletooth first showed his. So there is some interest for these cross bars even for the 2nd geners out there. My thought was a simple bar with a flat strip welded on the end and then using a Kuryakyn "P" clamp on the bars to attach the ends of the cross bar. Chroming them would be expensive but there's also the "Super Chrome" the powder coaters use. Which should be 1/3 the cost of chrome. I'm sure there's other ways of doing this as well. Larry
  23. Gota agree with the guys here. I went with the Flanders bars to bring the grips back some as well as adding the backrest. Between the two I got rid of that knife in the back feeling. Larry
  24. Nice ride ya got there. Love that color combo as well. Enjoy the ride. Larry
  25. Hope you get thru this storm without much damage Annie. Larry
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