Jeff's suggestion of using the appliance cardboard is a good one. I used to use that stuff myself till my source dried up. Now I buy 4x8 sheets at a commercial cardboard supplier and just make all of my boxes.
Larry
Having ridden toe shifted bikes for years and now using the heel toe shifters on the last 3 bikes, since "01", I too prefer the heel toe shifter models.
Wonder which class of clown I fit under? :confused24:
No matter, to each his own.
Larry
I've had two of each on two different bikes. Both are of good quality. One of the Clearview's I had was the tinted and vent which helped with sun glare and headlights at night.
The last two shields I've used which includes the current one are F-4's. I love that they're more scratch resistant and very clear looking through them. No tinted shield now but I still use the vent which I also like for that bit of extra air.
Oh yea all were extra tall models. I prefer the F-4 but you can't go wrong with either choice.
Larry
My 05 TRi-Wing/RSV had both the Flanders bars and the easy steer raked tree. The Hannigan has both as well. I think the rake on it was 4 1/2* . The Hannigan uses I believe 6* For me there was a noticeable difference in steering effort. Hannigan being much easier to handle but you'll still be tired after a day on the twisities if not used to riding them.
Another difference is low speed front wheel wobble with the Tri-Wing having a lot more. The longer wider wheel base coupled with the extra rake on the Hannigan is simply just more stable.
I do feel your pain in the wallet as I went thru that as well when I first went with the Tri-Wing saving myself about 6k. Good luck on whichever way you decide to go.
Larry
That nut really doesn't tighten the steering head down. You still need to get to the steering head nuts under the top triple tree. The chrome nut on top just locks down the top tree against the steering head nuts. Thus it still has to be loosened .
Larry
Leaving for towards home in a few minutes. We'll do an over nighter by Indy then finish getting home tomorrow. We had a great time with our friends from VR and especialy the B2's. Thanks Don & Patti for all you do.
Larry
Geez Annie that hurts way too much to be doing that stuff . Unbalanced or not. Hope it heals as quickly as possible but know it takes us old folks a bit more time. Least ways that's been my experience. Carry on best you can Annie.
Larry
BTW: Thought you was always a bit unbalanced so did you fall cause you got balanced? Love ya just the same.
Once you have the outer fairing off wiggle the separate connectors to possibly find the one causing your problem. Still it wouldn't hurt to spray all the connectors.
Larry
On second thought I'm going to agree that cutting slots forward will be best. Take out rear bolt and slide back to remove. Can't fall out in front that way if those bolts should loosen.
Nothing like getting real experience feedback.
Thanks, Larry
Nice write up Mike. Buddy told me the kick stand spring hit so I was going
to check out just where & how much o alter that area. As to a quick release system you can cut the top portion off the mounting tabs forming a "U" shape. Then you won't need to take the bolts out all the way, jut loosen them.
I think I'll do that on future productions. And cut a relief for the side stand spring too. Good ideas Mike.
Larry
If repairs fail you can buy factory painted fairings from mother Yamaha. Just look up the year and color you have to get the proper matching paint or let a dealer look up the part numbers.
Larry
Jay the storms should pass over you for the rest of the way but still chances of isolated rain too. Not to mention much cooler temps. Take care getting here.
Larry