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Carbon_One

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Everything posted by Carbon_One

  1. Carbon_One
    My thoughts exactly too. I had to go back and resize the pics as they were too big Larry
  2. Carbon_One
    I finally got my Stebel air horn mounted up. After making a small bracket I mounted it where the stock horn was at on the right side of the bike. Pictures are below of the install and what the bracket looks like. I didn't use the stock horn wiring thou as I wanted to give the horns as much power as was possible from the battery. I ran a completely separate wiring set up by running a 16 gauge wire from the battery , thru a covered rubber mini-fuse holder, and then to the relays #30 post. For the activation wire I used the right side stock horn wire which has power on when the key is on which goes to the #86 post of the relay. Going from the #87 post of the relay I ran the wire to the + post of the air horn. The - post of the air horn I grounded at the air horn mounting bolt. To activeate the horn I then run a 20 guage wire from the other stock horn terminal (That wire runs to the horn button) to the #85 post of the relay. Once you press the horn button it'll ground the horn relay allowing power to flow thru from the battery to the horn IF you turn on the key first. The bracket is 1/8" ( 10 gauge) stainless steel x 3" long bent in the middle at 90*. A 1/4" hole for the mounting bolt at the engine case ( where the groung strap is at) and a 5/16" hole for the bolt attaching the air horn to it. If you look closely you'll also see a notch I cut out to clear the rib of the clutch housing. I also have a second set of Stebel magnum horns (electric) mounted on the bike too. One is under the fairing and the other is under left lower cowling in the stock location. I had these mounted previously but wasn't sure if they were as loud as could be being under cover. Yes they are louder than the stock beepers were. Did I need both set ups? Probably not but if for any reason the air horn fails there's the other two to for back up. All are on the same circut described above. To me the sound level appears to be about the same. Maybe the air horn a bit more which I attribute to being out in the open. Larry
  3. Carbon_One
    Neat idea there Boomer. I too have been unhappy with the way the turn lights touch the bars at times. This does look like a much better fit and soluation. Larry
  4. Carbon_One
    4 gallons to reserve then have to switch the valve here. Larry
  5. Carbon_One
    I bought a Drag Specilities tach. It's one of the 1 7/8" models. I paid around $75 for it with shipping I believe. I mounted it inside a bullet cup ($60-65) and then used a Kurykyn "P" clamp as pictured in Rosebud's post. Those clamps cost $20 I also mounted a voltage gauge on the left handlebar with the same bullet cup & clamp. Larry
  6. Carbon_One
    I have decided to off a small discount to anyone purchasing either one of the Lift Adapter models during the month of Feburary. Standard adapters will be $70 and the freestanding model will be $120 and I'll include foot pads all that are sold then as well. As before shipping is included as well. Canadian members will have to make up any actual differences in shipping coasts. As they have in the past. Thanks one and all for your comtinued support. Larry
  7. Carbon_One
    You might get lucky and find that the ground cable is loose as was mine was. Shortly after getting the bike it was dead- nothing. After checking things over I found that the ground cable was loose. Tightened it back up and since then no problems. Or Buddy's info may be right. You'll just have to check things over first. Larry
  8. Carbon_One
    Good info to know. Keep it coming for those of us who wouldn't know the differences otherwise. Larry
  9. Carbon_One
    Good question and never even thought of that. I lost a rubber bumper on one of my lowers, haven't replaced it yet but so far haven't had and problems with the lower cracking or breaking. Probably only a matter of time you think? Larry
  10. Carbon_One
    I bought mine from a local Harley custom shop. J&P Cycles have several styles to chose as well. Here's a few links -- http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=BFE7A495-6D65-4619-9570-B7C67EFA65E4&search=1"%20clamps&store=Metric&page=8 (these are the type I used) http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=A8E1B84F-0208-431D-B3CE-A240CA1AEBC8&search=1"%20clamps&store=Metric&page=5 http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=2B4E94E0-2E56-496A-A09D-C5FA0552753A&search=1"%20clamps&store=Metric&page=1
  11. Carbon_One
    10 gauge is what I used. It's a bit under 1/8" thick. I'll go back and edit the first post to refect it's thickness. BTW I put a set of these on DenDen's bike last year. He dropped his bike on an off chamber slope and he felt then that this mod saved him a bunch of grief and money. Larry
  12. Carbon_One
    I've got one on order and am awaiting it's arrival anytime as well. I'm sure that Bill's spacer is well worth it's costs even with the price increase. From the looks of it and the reports from others I just know it'll be top quality too. I know I could have made one but why reinvent the horse. Besides it does help another member here and I have enough going in my shop. Larry
  13. Carbon_One
    No Thank you Charlie. I don't even want you thinking of testing on your bike either. You'll have a whole lot of explaining to everyone on why ya messed up. Larry
  14. Carbon_One
    I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
  15. Carbon_One
    I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
  16. Carbon_One
    How about putting caster wheels under the legs in order to roll the bike and stand to where you want it witout the jack? With the foot pad in place you could easyly attach some swivel caster wheels. Not my idea but was suggested by Dale Weber. I can see where that idea would have it's merits too. In fact I already checked at one place for 4" swivel wheels. Cast steel with rubber thread would cost about $6 each. The ones I looked at were rated for 275 lbs. each so a set of four would easly handle the bikes weight. They also had 5" wheels rated at 350 lbs each but I thought those might be a bit too tall. As I've said before you guys get any ideas to improve on these adapters or have a special request just tell me and we'll go from there. Larry
  17. Carbon_One
    I had a VW trike back in the early 70's. That machine sure was a lot of fun. Until someone actualy rides one I would say it's hard to judge one. Just my thoughts here. I do know that when the 2 wheeled horse gets a bit too much to handle I'll convert to a trike again in the blink of am eye. I've ridden sidecar rigs before too but those are a horse of a different color so to speak. Myself I prefer the trikes. One thing I'd like to see for the Venture trikes is an operational reverse for times whem you really need to back up. I know there's a post somewhere around here about that too but as far as I know no conclusive option has been offered. Oh well maybe by the time I'm ready for that 3rd wheel someone will have that figured out. If not I'll build something. Larry http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/21651/VWTrike-mail.jpg
  18. Carbon_One
    All good points Bobby and nothing wrong with that either. I'd probably do the same thing if I was in your shoes. Ok yesterday I attended the International bike show and saw a Hoppe fairing mounted on a Nomad. It looked real sharp too. As noted with the other brands of after market fairings there may be interferance with the radio compartment due to the TD's instrument cluster. As far as mounting one up I see no real problems there either. Looks like a fairly straight forward mounting to me. Good luck in your quest for a decent fairing there and let everyone know if you do find something that will workout for ya. I'm sure you're not the only TD owner who would want one. Larry BTW I've had experince mounting Harley fairings to Suzuki bikes . Check my photos
  19. Carbon_One
    And if you don't want the trunk , then take it off. Salty and one other member have done just that too. Larry
  20. Carbon_One
    Hi there everyone. I've added a couple of options for my Freestanding lift adapters. For those of you who have dirt, gravel, or blacktop driveways I'm offering 3" square pads to the legs if you want them. Or even if you would prefer the leg bottoms be covered. Also for those of you who have already ordered one of my Freestanding units I have as an accessory a slip on foot with 3" square pad. Check back on my 1st post here for further details or go to the VR Classified section of the 2nd gen parts & accessories. Thanks to everyone who's ordered an adapter regardless of style. Larry
  21. Carbon_One
    Sure thing Steve or I'll bring one along if I'm heading your way. I might be going to Big Petes place in Feburary and could bring one then as I'll be in the cage I'm sure. I'll be in contact later to find out which model you want. Larry
  22. Carbon_One
    Not that I know of SilvrT. I really need to borrow someones 1st gen to see what I'd have to do to make a decent adapter for them. I looked at DenDens once and several others at meets but other than doing an eyeball look at them don't really know what needs to be done there. One of the problems is the centerstand being in the way. Looks to me like you'd have to take it off if using it. That's less than a 5 min job thou or there may be a way to work around that. Volunteers / Guinea pigs here anyone? Larry
  23. Carbon_One
    I have a oil pressure gauge on my bike and like Muffinman says you'll be sorely disappointed in reading it. Especially after the bike get warmed up good and idling. Even on a cold engine the pressure only goes to about 40psi and that don't stay there very long either.On the freeway it can be reading 15-20 psi and then drop to 5. Scares the crap out of ya too but I guess these engines get enough oil as there doesn't seem to be any problems with longetivately. I'm seriously thinking of taking the gauge off as it seems pointless anyhow. Larry
  24. Carbon_One
    Goose whether you consider this info unscientific or not, it IS good info none the less. My 05 has mostly a stock configuration as yours is too. I'd guess most of us here are running their bikes pretty much stock as well. I do have a bunch of extra lights on the back of mine but like you am running leds for all of them & stock passing bulbs up front. While I don't have an ammeter mounted my voltage gauge has given me similar results as you have stated. Nor do I have any heated equipment to add to the electrical load. But those passing lamps will draw a batteries voltage down while idling at a light with say the brake lights on. Don't know if it matches your obversations on not as I never tried to memorize the numbers as you have done. All the same you have a good & worthy post here. Now does anyone know if there's an alternative method to boost the bikes electrical output? Maybe a different stator? Larry
  25. Carbon_One
    To answer some of you who've given me great moral support here I wish to thank you. Whether I have possible recourse thru applying for a provisional patent right or not remains to be seen. As Al noted it may be to little too late once the door has been opened. Not to mention what it may cost me in the long run. I have made some contacts and am currently waiting for responses from them. Only time & money will tell where this takes me. It never has been my intention here to corner the market so to speak on these adapters. My only thought was helping out the brothers here with a product that made using the Ventures easier in our life. That is why I first posted up my drawing along with dimensions last year sometime. It was before the sites crash and can't remember exactly when I posted that info. Once I lost my job and without any on the horizon I decided to use my talents to make them and offer them to our members here who don't have the knowledge or skills to build their own. Thus I got into selling them. Over time I also listed my adapter for sell at the Delphi fourms Royal Star Venture & Tour Deluxe site. When someone else had decided to capitalize on my design I have no idea. Did he STEAL from me? Kinda hard to say since I did place my drawing out for public viewing. Was it ethical? Again that's a judgement call. It does upset me knowing that there was no respect given me, but that doesn't seem to matter one bit for a lot of people in today's world. As I've said many times I do Thank everyone one for their support in both buying an adapter from me & for moral support. I like to think of us as family here and I do believe that is true as I've seen many wonderfull examples of that since I came to this site in June of 05. I look forward to continue serving our member's here with whatever I can do to make this site as great as it already is. Thanks, Larry
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