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Carbon_One

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Everything posted by Carbon_One

  1. If it was mine I'd change the seals. In my opinion it's bull crap to have to regrease every 1k miles let alone cleaning the wheels constantly. just my Larry
  2. If the bearings are throwing out the grease then you'll need new seals. Or if you've recently packed the bearings with grease and gotten to much in there then it's possible that after heating up the grease is expanding and being pushed out past the seals. No matter you do need to looking into why it's happening. You don't need a failure while on a trip Larry
  3. I have one from JCW too. Mounted it over the clutch resvoir. No power going thru the switches thou. I have it wire stricly as a grounding switch for the relay running the low beam headlight, spots , and bullet gauge lights Larry
  4. Yea that's what I found out tonight as well. I really don't need the mp3 system as all I really wanted was a cheap gps unit but then the C310 is cheaper by $50.00 on average. Whether having a built in memory or using a removable chip is best I can't really say. I'm not the sharpest tack when it comes to this electronic gizzmo stuff. Thanks for the help here as it's appreciated. Larry
  5. I was looking around at the local electronic stores. None had the C310 thou Circuit City had a C220 at $250. I tried to find out what the differences were but really haven't gotten that answered yet. The sales kid I talked to said it was the latest model from Mio so maybe it's the replacement of the C310. I duno thou either way. Also I was poking around on E-bay to find some. They're being sold at $178 and up. Which way to go here??? So undecided. If the C220 is the replacement then it probably already has all the latest upgrades on mapping, Guess I need to do some more info digging here. Larry
  6. I'm watching this thread as I'm interested in an afforable GPS myself. Going to see if I can find one localy in my area this week and get a better look at them . Till then I'll keep up with you guys giving out info here. BTW has anyone found any negative features on these units? Other than poentially getting wet? Larry
  7. I updated my info in my post. Parts of it were WRONG. Sorry guys. Larry
  8. Guys I measured the bleeder screws for the front calipers and found them to 7mm x 1.0 x 28 mm so that being the case they'll be the SB7100S models. The loger SB 7100 will be OK for the front too. The clutch and rear are 8mm x 1.25 , so the number for it will be SB 8125. I also looked at the Yamaha parts book to see if they were all the same, but they give a different part number for each location. At least the first three letters/numbers are different. I'm thinking they are the same but won't know till tomorrow when I check the rear caliper. Hope this helped you all. And yea I'm ordering a set of these too just as soon as I find out the size of the rear one. Larry
  9. Mean Dog I like the way you think. Sure does make it convient don't it? I think it actually may have been Don's reasoning thou, both as an intended location for center stands AND part of the manufacturing process. Whatever I like them there. Larry
  10. And some folks thought a couple of us nuts who had 3 horns!!!! Well I'm sure you'll be looking forward for just about any excuse now to lay on the button. Um I mean after all you do need to test it now and again. Yea that's it. Way to go there BigShell Larry
  11. Both good responses Frog Man & Redneck. I generally use the switch as a grounding switch whenever possible, thus have zero current going thru them. I've never had to replace a switch using that method. The switch would be between the #85 post of the relay and ground in this situation. Just my here. Larry
  12. You're welcome Dog. After I made that bracket for my bike it worked just too good to keep to myself. Just had to share it with everyone who was looking for a clean install when using the Stebel horn. Larry
  13. Good idea on how you plan to use that. Let us know what the results are after testing it out. Larry
  14. Keith I was thinking of doing the same. Great idea. Since I have some stainless steel here on hand that's what I'd use too. Larry
  15. Here ya go Joker -- http://venturedad.com/ Hitch doc as well -- http://www.hitchdoc.com/index.html Cheyenne Trailers hitches @ DiamondR --- http://www.diamondraccessories.com/ Larry
  16. CJVenture nice job there. While we all know most of the fun is leaning into curves if it means going to a three wheeler or 4 in this case to continue riding the bike I say go for it. After all your safety and others is #1. Besides you're still able to enjoy your scoot and that's what counts IMO. Larry
  17. Have you tried contacting Color-Rite for paint? I've used them many times and gotten perfect paint matches. here's a link to their web site -- http://www.colorrite.com/ Hope this helps you Larry BTW: welcome to the site too.Hope to see you around sometime
  18. Sad news to hear for sure. I've never meet either of you but still consider you family. Prayers to you and your family in these trying times. Larry
  19. I didn't do anything to mine either. Will look later at the hose option but morev then likely leave it off. As too any warranties or malfunctions I test mine every so often. Usually away from traffic. Also that's another reason I left the electric horns in place. They're out of site and are nice back ups. Left them hooked up as well so actually running three horns. Think they'll hear me? Larry
  20. Nice job you done there. Hope to see it some day. You too of course. Larry
  21. The ideas folks here come up with amaze me at times. So many cool ideas. As much as I'd like one of these turntables I don't have the room for one. If I did I sure would have one thou. Great job there on this one Lepapehermann Larry
  22. Hi Salty. After looking at both your pic here and at the DiamondR site of that plate I really don't think my bracket will work with it. There's a couple of reasons I think that way. One is that the bracket I'm making lets the horn sit back closer to the frame. I could alter the length of the bracket and allow it to rest up against the back of the DiamondR plate but getting the horn mounted could be a problem. The second reason is with the horn mounted using my bracket the stock horms mounting spot is all but covered up by the horn. I see no way to access the two bolts there short of taking off the exhaust pipe. When I first started to fabricate a mount for the horn I was thinking I could use those two bolts. But soon realized it was a fast fading thought. If you've already have that plate there you may be able to simiply drill a hole in the proper spot. The horn would stick out further thou. Larry
  23. After some prodding by fellow members I'm offering my Stebel air horn bracket for those who wish to have one. It's made from 1/8" stainless steel and nicely polished. Pics below of it on the air horn and in the mounted position. It replaces the stock horn on the right side of the bike, and tucks in very good as well. The horn doesn't stick out beyond the exhaust pipes because of that. Price of the bracket is $15 which will include shipping priority mail. Payments can be made by PayPal at lskeels@wowway or use the same address to get my home address if sending a money order. Larry
  24. Ok for those of you who want a simple yet effective horn mount for these Stebel air horns here's my bracket I promised to produce. They're made from 1/8" stainless steel and polished nicely. They'll cost $15 which includes shipping by priority mail. You can either pay for it at lskeels@wowway at PayPal or e-mail me for my address if sending a money order. See the pics on page 4 post #32 of this topic for the pics. Larry
  25. Yea I'd thought of that statement myself but didn't want to be a smartypants here. Larry
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