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gaj1917

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Everything posted by gaj1917

  1. gaj1917
    On my '84 it was a simple matter of removing the E-clip at the end of the shift shaft, along with the washer. The cover should slip off one the shaft after that. In addition to the good advice already provided, someone on this forum made an excellent suggestion on making re-install of the cover go very well. Locate or buy four hex bolts of the same size and thread specs as the ones that hold the stator cover in place, but longer, about 6.5 cm. Saw off the heads and round off shop edges with a file. When you get ready to re-install the cover, screw these bolts in a diagonal pattern into the engine block. You can then use them as guides to slide the cover on, and over the shaft. Otherwise it's a pain in the arse because of the magnetic in the rotor.
  2. gaj1917
    I actually have those, plus the plates. I guess that's the route I'll go, seeing as though I can't seem to make the '87 fit.
  3. gaj1917
    It looks like an improved design, and a sturdier unit. My complaint with the '84 is minor. I've only noticed clutch slippage when pulling away from a standing start on an incline with two-up. I'm not in the habit of coming onto the thing in other gears, so have no clutch slippage complaints there.
  4. gaj1917
    Yes, I spent a lot of time online comparing clutch parts, '84 vs '87. I have a complete '87 clutch, except the short push rod (on order) and the thrust washer (can one from '84). Bought an '87 cover as well.
  5. gaj1917
    I think we lost sight of the original question I poised - will a MKII clutch fit a MKI - in my case an '87 in an '84. I'm unable to get a correct fit.
  6. gaj1917
    Will have another go at this. I'm losing a mm or two somewhere. I'm quite sure the '87 basket (first boss) is seated properly. If I then insert the '84 boss, I have the shaft exposure I need, but not when the '87 boss is inserted.
  7. gaj1917
    Tried the 87 clutch on my 84. With the clutch basket and boss installed, there should be a couple of mm of shaft ribs exposed for holding the lock washer. There are zero mm with the 87 units installed! One of the basket or boss is the culprit I guess.
  8. gaj1917
    Watched those videos. Excellent, but they didn't mention doing anything special with stud holes as per the XVZ service manual. Something different in the XVZ vs VMax? I assume that you've gone through the cases-sealing process following the video procedure. No problems I gather.
  9. gaj1917
    Split the cases on my '84 recently to fix 2nd gear failure. I'm now ready to reassemble the cases and am not quite sure about where to apply the sealer. The service manual is slim on detail, but does warn about making sure to get sealant around "case stud holes". There are lots of those, assuming I understand what a stud hole is. External ones I get, but some are internal, where there wouldn't be any concern about oil leakage. I'd appreciate any advice that members might have. I've watched the VMax videos. No mention there of stud holes.
  10. gaj1917
    A good way to locate the source of a tricky oil leak is with special dye added to the crankcase oil. After warming up the engine, a special flashlight will display the dye-soaked leaking oil in vivid green. Easy then to track it to the source. I suspect any auto parts store would stock the dye, or could tell you where to get it. I pick it up on Amazon.
  11. gaj1917
    I stand corrected. I knew to look for the punch mark in the stator bolt for cooling kit install, but not aware of the other. Strange, though, that the cooling kit punch mark would be made immediately above the thrust and split washers that cause the 2nd gear issue.
  12. gaj1917
    The 2nd gear issue is a big one, and it will happen - very, very expensive if done at a shop; very, very time consuming, but less expensive, if you do it yourself. If this bike has had the 2nd gear issue fixed by a pro there should be a punch mark on the engine case just above the middle gear on the lefthand side (see photo). Then there's the overheating stator issue. And, of course, the plastic water pump impeller. I'm familiar with all these issues - I have an 84. Did I miss anything?
  13. gaj1917
    The plot thickens. Will follow up on that.
  14. gaj1917
    Thanks. I think I'll give it a go.
  15. gaj1917
    ---- I must have had a brain fart! I really did mean MK I vs MK II. Thanks for the response.
  16. gaj1917
    Be sure to see the 1st Gen Tech Library for an excellent description, by Freebird, on how you can change fork seals from the bottom up, as opposed to removing the forks.
  17. gaj1917
    A new clutch configuration appeared on the 1987 Ventures, and other Yamaha models at the time. I have a couple of questions - is it superior, AND will it fit into a 1984? I see a few for sale eBay. The 2nd gear issue finally caught up to me, so thinking about upgrading some things while the engine is out and apart.
  18. gaj1917
    The Permatex I used was a nice purple shade. No oil leakage around valve covers after 2,000 km. So far so good.
  19. gaj1917
    It's possible to remove and install shims without the hassle of removing the carbs. A bit tricky on some of the inside valves, but patience will win the day. You will need the special tool to compress the lifters, and a small magnet on the end of a rod to lift out and insert shims. I bought the shims I needed from PartShark. I think they were around 2$ each?
  20. gaj1917
    Very, very good advice. Those serpentine gaskets, and the very tight quarters when installing valve covers, make for a major challenge. Virtually impossible without something holding gaskets in place on valve covers. I used Permatex 80062 High Tack Gasket Sealant.
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