Arxvz1200

Thanks. I'll measure the resistance tonite. I measured yesterday the voltage was 12 for low and constant 4 for high. I had the headlight off and measured from the wires coming to the lamp. The white light isn't on not with low not with high beam. The high beam hasn't worked during my time. Just trying to get it work, not messing with LED. Thanks again. I'll check the resistance and report back. A

Hello, My xvz1200 from 1984 has no high beam. Also the high beam light doesn't come on in the dash. I measured voltage from the light bulp socket. I get constant about 4 volts to high beam wire. When I switch from low to high the low goes from 12 to 3,4 volts and high beam wire stays around 4 volts. The horn works fine and signal lights as well. I tried to open the light switch but got stuck with the choke ring thing. One of the many questions is how do I open the swicth after I unscrewed 2 bolts from the bottom. What is the way to get the choke ring off ? See pic Is there a separate relay for high beam ? the bike runs and all other lights work as should. The battery warning is on, the battery probe has been cut. The fuse box is new, changed by po. Fuses are good. Any pointers where to look next are appreciated. Thanks, Anssi

Got it. It was the hazard connector that was bad. I did check it before but carefully enough. Started tracing the wires for connectivity and there was the problem. FIXED. Thank You all Now I can move on to audio wires A

i mean yellow indicator light not green

Thanks for quick replies. I'll work on the bike again today. In my 84 venture I get green light on in the dash even with hazard switch disconnected. The lights won't blink but the green turns on and stays on. I'll check the bulbs and measure the voltage from the connecters. I'll get back, Anssi EDIT-YELLOW indicator lights in dash

New to me xvz 1300 from 87 turn signal is not working. Didn't test hazard before took fairing off. Dash, horn, high beam works. Bike runs etc. I took the relay from my other bike that had signals working. So Relay is ok. Fuse is ok. The switch I had look. see pic. Where do I start poking with multimeter ? Can somebody explain the relay connector wires ?In the pic there's also a loose connecter that was behind the headlight. No idea what that should do. I have the fairing off. Tail connected. I'm worried cause there's no green light in dash when I turn signal switch. All VERY SIMPLE directions how to start measuring the voltage for signal are welcome. I'm not very familiar electrical diagrams ect.. Thanks, Anssi

So snyper316 can you give me tips? A

Thanks. Not bad idea, but I've already have had that fixed.

Xvz 1200 from 84. Wasn't easy spot the leak, but finally got it.

I have oil pan seal leaking. What is the minimum/easiest way to change the seal ? Thanks, Anssi

Now I understand. Thank you very much , again. Didn't have time to forks off but had a quick look to get the right idea about clip in the groove. So glad I asked. One of the rare occasion I asked before using force. From what I googled this the seal I am after Fork Oil Seal Mgr-rsd2 40x52x8/10,5 Left hand side was upper bolt was stripped. I was able dremel the bolt in half, but I still have get the bit with threads out. But that waits while the forks are being done. For every job on this bike I need to add couple of extra hours fighting stripped and rusted bolts. Thanks again for help. I'll be posting soon

Should I use force to pry gap wider to pull the fork down ? I tried but was afraid to use enough. I removed 2 bolts from both sides. The forks come down until the edge in the pic hits the black part It's xvz 1300 from 87 that I'm bringing back. Thanks, Anssi

Thank you very much for great advice. Well it seems user error again. Little progress. I was trying to trace back the steps I've done to this bike. A lot of small things, some forgotten. While fighting with the clutch slave I had changed the middle gear cover bolts to shorter ones. Could have not thought that exact lenght is critical. Originals were in bad shape. I changed them again to match the original lengths, not sure whether I got it right. The leak onto collector is away! Still couple of drops on the left side but no smoke when I park. Could it be that the bolts hold also something else than just the middle gear cover. I still get 2 drops when I park. The bottom bolt has new copper seal and that seems to hold, so maybe stator wire thing...or something else. maybe for now I live with this and move on cause there is still whole lot to work on eg. no high beam light, battery warning light etc. Maybe the bolt lenghts are something to remember when leaks occur. I have a habit of replacing old and worn bolts while restoring. Again great support from you, many thanks

The hunt continues. Cleaned the bike from under and tried to reproduce the leak while on centerstand. Didn't leak much at all. Good news the cooling system is quite effective. it took a long time for the temp to rise. Thinking back maybe I should have had the bike on the side stand tilting left. That's the side where it leaks, still wasn't able to pinpoint. I had some twobyfours under the middle stand to lift the bike little higher so I was able crawl under there while the bike was running. That was little scary. Didn't get burned. I wonder could the middlegear cover leak onto the collector. That cover I have taken off numerous times when fighting with the clutch slave. So tommorw I'll seal the middle gear cover again and hopefully better. If that doesn't fix then it's collectors off. I'll asked about that if needed.

Thanks for quick reply. Good tip. Valve covers felt nice and dry when stick my hand there(engine cold). But it let to think the chain tensioner. Maybe that could leak. It's pretty dirty back there, couldn't tell whether it was recently leaked. So I'm going to ride the bike this evening so i'll check the chain tensioner. I'll get back. Thanks, Anssi

Hi, Last night I noticed a small drips of oil under my bike. Tried to locate the leak this morning. It seems that something is leaking on to the exhaust collector and from there it makes way to the ground. The restoration has been a handfull. The bike is now running nicely and I thought I could move on reapiring the fairing but this new leak is a setback. I also attach a picture of the bike. All couragement is welcome. It's the final stretch where money and motivation are runnig out. I've been able to ride couple of weeks now. The missing side fairings have little bits missing from inside. The front lower fairing is ok. Bu I've chose ride like this still because as it seems little things come up all the time. So have you had such leak ? What is above the collector ? I guess it's radiator and exhausts off to fix this one ? Thank you very much in advance, Anssi

Well. Found it. It was on the wrong side of the boss. Put back where it should be. Now the clutch works. I googled the part number, when saw a picture of the part I realised that the part is there. What a nightmare. Wish i had found it sooner. Although I'm happy that I did the slave, and master cylinder. Unfortunately broke the clutch electric switch when removing the master cylinder. That's now fixed. BTW the trick to make the slave cylinder easier was loosen the bolt holding the wire holder leftside of slave cylinder. So i was able turn that metal thingy aside. Best, A

Should there be spacer or something between clutch basket and clutch boss ? I'm asking because the clutch was stuck and only way I could get the clutch to work was loose little the center bolt. Here's background. I've no idea of the history of this bike. It runs but the clutch didn't work. This is how I recall. There was no fluid when I started. Day 1 Put fluids. Bled the clutch. Lever comes only little in. Doesn't work Day 2 Revided the slave cylinder. Bled the clutch. Lever comes only little in. Doesn't work Day 3 opened the clutch cover. push rod was stuck. got it moving. The clutch doesn't work. Day 4 Removed the slave and the clutch cover. The rod was moving. Put the pressure plate back. The clutch doesn't work. The push rod was too far out. Pushed it in. Bled the clutch. The clutch doesn't work. The pressure plate was moving nicely when I pressed clutch Revided the master cylinder. Bled the clutch. The clutch doesn't work. Day 5. I took the friction plates out until the string. wasn't able to move separately the boss and the basket. There were stuck to together. Started to open the big middle bolt holding the boss. Only then the basket and the boss were moving separetly when the middle bolt was loosened. If I tighten the center bolt again isn't that like having the boss and basket bolted together if there's nothing between. By now you might know that this is the first time for to work on xvz clutch. The slave and the master are working properly. I can see the pressure plate moving nicely I tried to look schematics, but didn't understand Thank you in advance, you know these things so well. Anssi

https://youtu.be/tsQJ158Rq8k adjusted valves, cleaned carbs, new gears from xvz1300, cleaned the starter motor Got her running, but still a long way to go. All ideas where to go next are welcome: I'll adjust carbs. Clutch doesn't work can work on it without draining oil, maybe tilting little Haven't checked if the battery is charging. How do check the cooling system ? What wire is to the engine temp meter ? Thanks, Anssi

Short:repaired with high heat jbweld and got the bike running. Long Sorry for not getting back earlier. I just walked away....until now. I was so frustrated that I buried the bike at the back of my garage. I was thinking that I'll give it away for parts, didn't want see it But I just sold my only running bike Suzuki GS1100L yr82. In "need" of a bike , I came back to face my enemy. Plan was to give it this Saturday, make a quick, cheap fix and then to decide to keep working on it or loose it. Unfortunately I don't have pics of the repair. just put jbweld around it...and waited 2 hours. Looked okay. Put the cover back on, filled oil Some gas, attached car battery and started cranking. After little sprays of starting gas it started to pick up. So the current situation is this - the bike starts and runs, with 4 cylinders, haven't adjusted mixture or balance yet Next ? - adjusting carbs - how does the cooling works. i've only had air cooled engines - I don't think it charges - the clutch doesn't work Engine running gives me a boost of energy to carry on. I know the fix is not ideal, but so far it has done the job. Again I want thank you for all your knowledge. I'm sorry I took this long to make an update. I'll be posting a video of the bike and doing a lot of searching on this site. Hopefully in coming weeks I'll be taking a ride with this thing... Anssi

thanks for replies. Now i'm after a big powerdrill to crank the engine from the big flywheel bolt without starter (or maybe I find the biggest hill by the waterfront and push start all way the down. If it's not running by the shore I let go and let it swim:) That's gonna be fun. I address the idle gear issue if/when I get it running well enough. I've had many simpler 80's bikes xj900, cb750, z1100, gs750, gs1100 etc.. been pretty confident and succesful but this xvz1200 seems to challenge me. I let u know what happens. Not giving up without a fight. Best, Anssi

right axis holder is broken. Has anyone repaired one ? I'm about let go of this bike. My first venture, got it 2 yrs ago, Rode it then for 5 minutes just to notice that it wasn't running well, 2nd gear problem and brake problems, carb problems. It's been one those projects waiting for its' time. The time had come this summer Had another gearbox put in, adjusted the valves, cleaned the carbs, whole lot gaskets and hoses, fixed broken fairing , and much more... Now this, has anyone had the same problem before. Thanks for help, Anssi

There's no oil in the startermotor. There's oil behind stator cover where startermotor gears turn flywheel. My startermotor is fine. It's when I put the stator cover back on then it binds the gears. Yesterday I cut gasket from universal gasket sheet. The motor cranked but very very very slowly. I gonna order oem gasket. Hopefully I get it by the end of the week. A

This is great forum. Of course there was already a thread on binding gears with no gasket http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?69767-Starter-Issues&highlight=stator+cover+thickness This is great forum. Anssi

Little update.. I pulled the radiator, The downpipe, and the starter. Starter on the table applied 12 volts it span, great ! Took both left side covers off, took the starter motor gears off. Put the starter back with no gears and no covers hit the start button and starter motor worked. I put the gears back but no cover hit the starter button. Cranked real nice ! No problem what so ever! Engine turned nicely! Put the covers back on and pressed the start button. Didn't spin! So when I loosened the stator cover screws it worked. There was no gasket with cover to begin with and I applied some gasket sealant when putting back together. Like it was already pointed out the missing gasket seems bind the gears. How thick is the oem gasket ? Can I cut one out general gasket material ? Thanks, Anssi