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Tupperj

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About Tupperj

  • Birthday 02/06/1962

Personal Information

  • Name
    Paul Johnson

location

  • Location
    Cincinnati, United States

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  • City
    Cincinnati

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Other than bikes? MGB's. boats
  • Bike Year and Model
    83 Venture
  1. Tupperj
    I'm right in your neighborhood. Our office is in Tri-County close to the Back Porch. If you see Liz, say Hi she'd love to meet you. And if you have any problems or concerns about the immunizations, she'd be happy to do whatever you need done. She's really in to this. Makes for interesting dinner conversation. Paul
  2. Tupperj
    Adventure 08 Along with the info already provided, you might check out XJBikes.com. More good info there. My eldest daughter had ridden an 81 XJ650 Maxim from Ohio to Vancouver, Canada and back. No issues. If yours is a YICS engine you might need to buy or make a special tool to sync the carbs. Basically a long tube that goes through the head and blocks off the YICS passages. There is some debate about this. I think you'll find the XJ community much like the Venture community. They host Carb Clinics around the country and are as passionate about their bikes as this group is. Enjoy the bike, and enjoy the community. Paul
  3. Tupperj
    Yama Mama, Which school are you in? My better half, Liz Sabo Johnson is working with Cincinnati Public to organize swine flu response. She's had meeting with many of the school nurses. Speaks highly of you all. I'll ask her to look out for you. Paul
  4. Tupperj
    Might fit, but then the vin wouldn't match to the one stamped on the steering head. Paul
  5. Tupperj
    Hipshot, Like others, I'm also a triple fan. Gave my eldest daughter the 78 750 she and I resurrected together for her 18th birthday. Moved up to the XS1100, and then on to the Venture. The Triples (750 and 850) community is much like the Venture community. People who really like the bikes, and just can't help themselves. There is a main site at http://www.yamah-triples.org that has as much info as you could need. Good people. The triples have a unique exhaust note, and as other mentioned, a ton of torque. Fun bike to ride. Simple to work on. Three individual coils. Mikuni carbs. There's a seal on the drive shaft that holds the final gear oil in. It can fail. Bad things happen. DAMHIKT. I've got several 750 carcasses and misc parts. If you pick it up and need or want something, let me know. Get it, enjoy it. You can never have too many bikes! Paul
  6. Tupperj
    Sheradan, Dealt with both. Carb slide should be fine, jets are different I believe. Mounting for trunk/bags different (obviously). Forks are different, hydraulic vs electronic anti-dive. Wheels will interchange, but brake discs will not. Also, the plastic cover on the other side of the rear wheel from the disc is different. Really a pain to find that out when you try to do a swap. DAMHIKT. Not a complete list, but a start. Paul
  7. Tupperj
    Thanks, but I think I have it under control. Think I fried a stator. A new one at that! Bike started losing voltage, until it just couldn't keep the plug firing. My shipping guy in Cincy can get a spare out to me, and I have or can acquire the tools I need. Gives me something to do besides hang with the wife's family. Paul
  8. Tupperj
    Rm, I've got a carbtune that you're welcome to use. I have an office in Blacklick that I can send it to, if you could pick it up there. I'm currently in Cape Cod (with a busted Venture!) until next weekend. Shoot me a reminder and I can get it up to you. Take care, Paul
  9. Tupperj
    Condor, Found mine out in the garage. Surprising! to quote Progressive: Due to the design of a progressive wound fork spring it will displace more oil thus requiring a maximum oil level of 5.5" (140 mm). Caution: This is not a recommendation, it is only a precautionary statement. Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed. With regard to the spacer, they suggest the top of spacer should be at least flush with the top of the fork tube with the forks fully extended. Hope that helps. Paul
  10. Tupperj
    Tony, Glad the tool is working for you. Thanks for pointing out you need to secure the long piece into the T. Forgot that detail. On your re-assembly dilemna, I've heard of people using grease to hold things together, but I'm personally wary of that. You're introducing strange stuff into a fairly complicated system, and I'm not sure what it would do swirling around in the forks and anti-dive system. Keep up the good work! Paul
  11. Tupperj
    Hey Dick, I see you're also in the 'Natti. If you want to try a different reg in your bike, let me know. I've got several "donors" out in the warehouse, I'd be happy to pull one off for you. My shop's in Tri-county if you're anywhere close. Good luck! Paul
  12. Tupperj
    Tony, As I understand it, the washers and the spacer at the bottom of the piston work with the anti-dive system. Don't ask me how, but I'm pretty sure that's what they do. More knowledgeable folk will likely chime in. Haven't done a cross reference, but yes indeed you can still get a lot of parts for the First Gens. For a price. Sorry about the Mothership comment. Mixing my groups. The XJ650 group uses the term Mothership to refer to Yamaha corporate, or your local dealer. The source of all "official" things for our bikes. Keep us posted on how you're doing. Paul
  13. Tupperj
    Tony, You're right, that info is significant. The washers you need are still available from the Mothership, but likely have to order. Just went through this with my most recent acquisition. Putting on those washers is another reason I like to put the forks back together off the bike. You put the damper rod on the T-tool, put the washers on, the end cap piece (don't remember what Yamaha calls it) and slide the outer fork down over the whole thing. Everything stays in place. As far as which way to put the springs in, according to what I remember reading in my Progressive literature, it really doesn't matter. Some folks thing putting them in a certain way give you less "spring noise". Personally, I've never really heard my springs, but that's could be bad ears. There is a write up (I'm pretty sure) in the tech section on doing a complete fork rebuild. Basically covers what you're already doing, plus a few other parts like the washers we're talking about, and the collars that go around the inner fork tube. Once again, the Mothership or Rick at Buckeye. Best of luck, and keep slogging away at it! Paul
  14. Tupperj
    Tony, I'll suggest a different cheap tool to make. Everything you need should be at your local hardware store. Get a bolt with a 15/16 or 24mm head. Next go to the plumbing section and find some black iron pipe. There is a 1/2 pipe that will just allow the bolt to fit in. Get a 3 foot section, a 2 foot section and a T fitting. When you get home, cut the 2 foot section in half. Thread each half into the flat part of the T and the 3 foot section into the other outlet of the T. Now you've to a big T-handle. Either weld the bolt into the long end of the T or through drill and use a roll pin if you don't have access to a welder. Now, once you have the fork opened up and the spring out, you can put the bolt end of the T down the fork tube and it will engage into the top side of the piston to hold it in place. Usually I have the forks off the bike and I just turn the tool upside down, slide the fork over it and put my feet on the T-handle on the floor. Gives me good leverage to get that pesky allen bolt out. Here are some pics of my cobbled up version, just don't laugh at my lousy welding skills. Hope that helps! Paul
  15. Tupperj
    Looks more like Gort. Gort. Klaatu Verada Nikto. It's good to be a geek!
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