Du-Rron

You know about just replacing the points on the factory fuel pump ...right?

No, I believe that is the fuel pump connector. I think the one you want is behind the center panel, next to the "left" panel you just removed.

And notice...it is a 2020, not one of the 2018's that are still sitting around new on dealers floors.

The idle is not adjustable. If you get no codes, nothing is wrong. The Service Manual is available on here.

The oil check bold is the phillips-hexhead screw.

I would do the stethescope thing as well. I would also crack open the oil check-bolt (oil-gallery bolt) which easy and only takes seconds to make sure you are getting oil to the top end.

Here is the info, WITH pictures! https://www.venturerider.org/history/index.php

Ya know you have to remove the mufflers. The nut size is 27mm. Dont hand the wheels from the bearings and then beat on them as your pounding translates to side load shock on the bearings. Wheel must be lightly on the ground and you can pull axle out with a wrench. Be sure to lightly grease the axle upon reinstall. Here is a video

Try replacing the points first. If you have to go electronic, Facet 40178

No, that is not how the manual says to check the cruise control system. The throttle drive/vacuum pump on a RSV is checked by the following method. The manual is available on here (this site) and there is a good auto-check routine available in the book to check the entire cruise system, switches and all. The one thing the auto-check method will not tell you is if the vacuum tube from the pump to the actuator is bad. That one you have to inspect yourself.

The wire has two "Mickey Mouse Ears" that protrude inside the clutch basket. The wire is threaded through a trough scribed into the clutch hub for flush fit. Don't break the wire as you will then find it difficult to remove. Poke the mickey mouse ears through the clutch hub towards the outside. Using a screwdriver, wood dowel, brass punch, whatever ya got, push the clutch steel towards the center of the engine to help relieve spring pressure against the wire and remove the wire. Yes, there is one more spring you will be pushing against and it is shown as part number 16 in the top diagram and part 1 in the bottom one. Then you will remove the parts shown in the bottom diagram. KEEP THEM in case you want to reinstall them later and remember, don't screw up the wire. And, ya know the manual is available on this site as well.

That would be a question for Barnett. Just slap them in and they should be fine. They are generic and fit many bikes. If they put the indents on them they would have other customers asking what they were for. If you are using the original clutch basket and hub, they only fit real well one way, which is the same way they came apart. Pay attention as to how they came apart. Get some new clutch hub bolts while you are at it.

Happy Belated Birthday!!!!

There is a lot of GOOD stuff in there but... I really like that shot.

The most important thing is FIT of the helmet. All other standards dont matter if it dont fit. Concentrate on FIT first, then decide on price/value purchase based upon standards. When I wear a helmet it is DOT/ECE never just DOT. By the time I get another helmet the FIM standard will be out and I will get a DOT/FIM standard helmet based upon fit and price. By the year 2027 comes around another "standard" will probably pop up that we will need. Instead of questioning Standards, jut get a helmet you like, fits well, and is within your budget. Then ALL will be ok.

The $1500 Arai helmet is hand built. Arai will never give you a flip down sunshade, and they probably will always attach their shields with Pods, and hell no there ain't gonna be no discussion of a "Modular" with Arai. There is no standard, FIM or otherwise, that an Arai probably cannot pass. The $300 FIM helmet RATING is telling you that it is as good as their practical testing allows, which should be a touch better than a DOT/ECE or a World Standard helmet rating. It is not a comparison to a BRAND.

The BEST helmet is one you never need. Regarding getting locked up in Standards, FIM helmets are going to be pricy. No way around that. A DOT/ECE helmet will probably pass the FIM standard. Moto GP races all require a DOT/ECE helmet, even for those races held in the States, like Austin Texas. I have several LS2 helmets. I like them all. Try MOTORCYCLECLOSEOUTS.COM for lower priced Shoei, LS2, HJC, Arai helmets. Right now my favorite helmet riding a Z900RS is a $80.00 Fiberglass DOT/ECE rated LS2 Arrow helmet. No lift at -very- high speeds and is the same helmet Yonny Hernandez wears in Moto GP. My favorite helmet to wear (full face) on the RSV is a $80.00 Fiberglass DOT/ECE rated FF397 LS2 Vector/Citation helmet. You may like the $120.00 LS2 Metro V3 Modular helmet. I like the above LS2 helmets because they are all LONG OVAL and fit perfectly. They also have good pricing on SHOEI, HJC etc helmets. Don't let a FIM standard get in your way of getting a "realistic" helment that while not passing a FIM standard officially, would pass it theorititcally. (spelling) To further complicate your helmet standards are the "World Standard" helmets (Icon Airframe Pro) (AGV Pista) and the SHARP Standard. https://sharp.dft.gov.uk/helmets/?manufacturer=Ls-2&model=All&type=2 Get two or three cheap helmets of the same brand to keep the guts of them clean by swapping out dry interiors while you are washing the other. (Speaking of helmets... What engine oil should I use... hahahah)

Full Coverage on 2012 RSV @ Actual Cash Value is $161.00 per year from MARKEL insurance THAT'S $14.00 PER MONTH FOR A YEAR!

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade

Yeah, compressing the spring with a washer won't change the spring rate (make it heavier) but it will eat up any clearance you might have had when you pull the lever in.

Just presenting the "facts" from Shinko, the manufacturer that states they are rated 80 load range (not 70 to 74" as you stated), which is higher than the factory Dunlops. Here is a way to even compare the factory tires against a Shinko. MtireCompare.pdf

Then you wont like the Barnett kit as it is a reduced friction zone clutch as it is not a two stage clutch like the factory setup. I did not like the reduced friction zone either, so... I reinstalled the half-disk, the 2nd belleville spring, and the retaining piano wire. In essence the only part I really replaced was the large Belleville "diaphragm spring" which got me the mucho good clutch with no slip and I can pull houses now or burn the rear tire off trying. If you have been lugging around a side-car with a slipping clutch, you will need new friction disks and you have possibly toasted your "steels" from slippage. @skydoc_17 has it all. Give him a shout.

Everybody has their favorite stuff. Silicone grease is OK but not my 1st choice. I would say, NEVER use WD-40 on any rubber as it will destroy it. Iuse XtraSlik as a rubber lubricant because I already have a lifetime supply of it for mounting tires and whatnot. It is super nasty slick when wet and when dry it does not act like a sealant, but their is a minimal surface -tack- to it. But, that does not seem to be the main problem now if you already broke into the heads with the use of longer bolts. Owwwwweee,

Owwwee... How did you get that picture? Wait... I don't wanna know...