Du-Rron

Dear V7Goose: Right now everything is okay. Can't take it to the dealer now because the clutch fluid is new so I have to wait a while till it turns nasty again. => "and it is just possible I can give you quite a bit more info about this particular bike that you have not yet absorbed from this site." That is exactly why I am here. => "If you want to ride out here to the southern mountains in New Mexico, I'll be happy to try and help you figure it out" A ride to Mecca. That sounds very good. I haven't been there yet and would like to meet some of yall. Right now the clutch is working fine. But, I promise to give updates in the next few months/thousand miles and let you know what happens. I don't have a problem with getting the dealer to replace the entire hydraulics in the clutch system should it go south and I will keep yall informed as to how it turns out either way. Thank you for the offer!

I get my Venture knowledge from here as well. That is why I am here. I think my fluid was way past "golden" around the 2500 mile mark. Like I said earlier is that I will keep your words close to heart. I just can't take it to the dealership now since it has brand new fluid in it. I'll have to wait till it turns nasty again.

Dang.... Ohhhhh.... I like it. Heck, I like the horn too. What is that?

I just did this same trip on 2-9-15. There is a giraffe located at the metal building at the top right of this picture. I am going to go again very soon and this time visit the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum located in Vanderpool Home owned by an Australian guy, who is now an American Citizen, that has Vincents and all other kinds of Motorcycles. His collections are rumored to rival Jay Leno's (click the word HOME to go there)

Trucks and bikes are apples and oranges. 10 % of the trucks on the market are "Low Mileage". 90 % of the bikes on the market are "Low Mileage". Certain trucks, like Diesels are high mileage and does not really make a difference. Certain bikes like the RSV are also high mileage and does not really make a difference.

I have already done the bit where you take the fairing apart and grease all the radio connections with dielectric. I was riding around yesterday and my Ipod stopped playing. What the heck?!?!? Spent some time re-taking the fairing apart, unplugged, replugged, nothing worked. The Ipod would not work. Went to the left saddlebag where the Ipod is stored and was replugging and fiddling with the Ipod when I noticed out of the corner of my eye... "The junk in my saddlebag had unplugged the other end of the Ipod cable from the AMP breakout box!!!! I could have saved about an hour of fiddling if I had checked here first. Plugged the cable back into Port #1 of the AMP breakout box. Ipod works again.

On 10-7-14 when I bought my 2012 RSV I thought it had one of the best "feeling" clutch action I have ever experienced. By the time the 600 mile service came around about ten days later the clutch action had worsened considerably. The clutch fluid was two years old when I bought the bike new and was black and nasty looking. I flushed and bled the clutch and it again "felt" great. On 2-10-15 about 4 months later when I had 5000 miles on the bike I was noticing the clutch action no longer was "feeling" good. I inspected the clutch fluid and again found that it had baked itself black again. The clutch action on this bike is largely determined by the "newness" of the fluid. I again flushed and bled the clutch and the "feeling" again returned to "brand new". I began looking for any area on the clutch route that could be exposed to high heat. I found the most likely location to be exposed to radiant heat was to be the location 1" away from the exhaust pipe on Cyl #2 . Behind the rubber cover is a steel clutch fluid line that is most likely to take a lot of radiant heat. I took some "Heavy Duty" foil from the kitchen and cut a 16" X 6" piece. I then folded the foil (shiny side out) to make a 4" X 6" piece out of it. I then wrapped the foil around the clutch line at Cyl #2 . The cost was next to nothing and the time spent was about ten minutes. I am hoping that by providing a radiant heat shield to the clutch line that the fluid will last a little longer and the clutch "feel" will last longer.

Remove push pins on cover by pressing in on center head with toothpick, ball point pen, etc, and remove cover. Unbolt part # 73 from trunk. Once you get part # 73 in your hand the lock cylinder will unbolt from the plate.

Taken from the ad. "The 31.2 inch seat is raised 5.6 inches above ground. " Should be easy to get your feet/knees/ears on the ground since this is such a lowrider.

"...melt the snow on the cement pad ..." Melt the snow so you could get your bike out!?!?!?! You're Unstoppable Hardcore! I like that!

Ohhhh... My bad. I misunderstood and thought the wheel could be moved further by hand all the way around. Well, if you ever find anything out please let us know. Much thanks!

Brakeside washer usually gets transplanted to inside the diff so that there can be clearance between 165 series tire and left side swingarm. Our first clue to the failure is that the bike is stuck in 5th gear, yet the wheel will move. Now, only taking the wheel off will tell us what went wrong. Both bearings going out at same time (left side horizontal needle bearing and right side radial ball bearing) will sure cause tire to wobble. However, if the bearings are out and the cush drive is still engaged to the diff splines, the wheel will not rotate if the bike is in gear (if drive shaft/ u joint not broken). Missing internal spacer will cause radial bearing failure (right side) and the tire may appear to be rotating steady by hand because it is being held up by horizontal needle bearing but will wobble horribly if weight is put on it. Still does not explain why tire rotates with bike in gear. Hmmmmmm.....

When you get the chance, inquiring minds would like to know..... Just curious if this was a mechanical failure. Was it your front tire or your back tire wobbling? When you went Darkside did you place the brake side washer into the diff for clearance on the left side swing arm? Your findings of what went wrong may possibly save one of our necks in the future. Any info you could provide would be most helpful. Thanks!!!

Glad your up and around. Be sure to keep on top of this. I really think you have allergies. Obviously your allergic to.....SNOW!

Just the tank for the back two cylinders. For the front take off the engine to frame straps on both sides, fairing lowers, airfilter boxes and brake resiviour. (don't know how to spell resivor) Keep the chrome pieces in order when you take them off so that you can remember where they go back on. Also, there is a small -chrome wing- -deflector thingy- that is not shown in the drawing and that should go on top of the left rear cylinder.

In order to answer your question we will need a sound file/ video of your pipes, and pics of the bike. I would take it to a tuner in your area that could get a "before" standard of your bike using the exhaust gas analyzer, and then recommend a rejet if necessary.

Somethimes you just have to feel things. Which, is something we cannot do through here. Ok, forget about adjusting the valves, just take the chrome covers off and put a wrench on the bolts and you will have your answer as to what step two will be if any. I don't think anybody is gonna tell you to just let it leak. The leak -could- get on the tires and that will be much worse for you much faster than the engine slowly running low on oil.

What weight oil are you running? Something don't sound right. What readings do you get if you run gauges ground straight to battery?