Du-Rron

So far no problems with rear brake fluid. Since I initially wrote this article about a month ago, the clutch fluid has been bled/flushed about 3 times. One time by me, one time by the dealership when they replaced the diaphragm, and just last week again by me when I installed the @skydoc_17 Clutch Upgrade kit. So, this thing has been through about fifty gallons of brake fluid in the last month and I have worn out the screws on the Master Cylinder ( Anyways, I really never had a problem with the clutch operation when using new fluid, just after 5k on the old fluid when it got black and nasty. Thought I would put a heat shield on to try and stop a little radiant heat from getting to the fluid from the exhaust pipe and turning it dark so quick, as I can do nothing about the conductive heat of the slave cylinder. Thank you for the "heads up" on the rear brake fluid though.

Yes, this was a complement to you on passing on the info.

Lookie what I found from Yamaha.

You are bad to the bone.

A new mechanical seal (6,7,8) or a new water pump (assembly 1).

Here is the factory cruise control diagnostic as provided by @dingy XVZ13D Venture Cruise System - 86 tech manual.pdf

On this one the Unit Bearing gave out. The Unit Bearing, which contains the backing plate, brake rotor, and wheel sensor are still bolted to the wheel. Just no longer on the truck.

Check the Unit Bearings on the wheels so this does not happen to you.

Start Checking Fuses.

The Shinko 777 is a new tire series vs the 230. They have higher load rating and more rubber on them than the 230 series. Shinko777Specs.pdf

Thank you for thinking up the kit, good pricing, good customer service, good instructions, and fast shipping. I got this from you quicker than I have ever received anything from my dealer. I like my dealer, however like so many of them they do not stock any parts anymore. I went in the other day to have some air added to my tires, they said, "We will have to order that." (Drumroll-ta dum)

With your bike level front to rear and side to side add oil until it is at the upper line on the sight glass. See if this makes any difference.

Been cold lately and I am a panty-waist wuss and don’t like to ride if it is less than 45 so I decided to upgrade the clutch using the @skydoc_17 kit that contains a .070” diaphragm spring, a gasket, and a full friction disk. I ordered the kit on 3-7-15 and it arrived here on 3-11-15 whereupon I dumped the new friction disk in T6 oil to soak till I could get around to working on the bike. Thank you very much @skydoc_17 for the prompt service. I installed the kit on Friday night 3-13-15 with 5952 miles on the bike. I did not have any slipping clutch problems with the factory clutch, but, I expect in the future to be pulling a trailer and I am certainly not losing any weight myself any time soon. Just wanted to head off any problems before they started. I unthreaded the factory wire on the half disk so, maybe, it can be reused in the future. I removed the factory half-friction disk, the factory Belleville washer, the factory flat washer, and the factory .060” diaphragm spring and replaced them with the components in the @skydoc_17 kit that contained; a new full friction disk, and a .070” diaphragm spring. While the basket was empty, I rotated the Clutch Boss containing the “dot” for the pressure plate to align with the “dot-dot” on the primary drive just for convenience during reassembly. Friction plates went in “hole-hole” up and pressure plate went on “dot” up. I was just lucky the primary was already in this position when I opened the cover. OH, NOW I UNDERSTAND: With the factory setup, the clutch lever would feather the clutch at about half-way pull. This is because from the factory the clutch pak was a “variable depth” setup in that once the pressure plate started to lift off the clutch pak, the Belleville washer would push the last steel disk a few thousands of an inch towards the pressure plate, maintaining semi-clutch-engagement, until the steel disk either reached full travel of the Belleville washer or the steel disk hit the wire. Once that travel was reached, …then… full disengagement started to occur, which allowed feathering the clutch at about the halfway point in lever travel, and gave about 3/4” of lever travel in the feathering range. With the @skydoc_17 kit that replaces the half-friction disk, the flat washer, and the Belleville washer with a full friction disk the clutch pak is no longer “variable depth” and the clutch lever only has a feathering range of about ¼” and full engagement is achieved with the lever approaching the very end …say the last ¾”… of its travel in its normal position away from the handlebar. The clutch lever travel took a little getting used to. It was like I was riding somebody else’s bike. I did not notice much, if any, greater lever pull in strength needed to pull the lever in, versus the factory setup. In other words, the strength needed to pull the lever in, seemed the same as when I was using the factory diaphragm spring. During my test ride, I was abusive with the clutch. Many times at 80MPH I would tap the lever to feather the clutch, or hold it partially disengaged for a one-count (which really built up some revs since I was already doing about 4K rpms) and the clutch always resumed its grab as soon as I let go of the lever. I also scared myself by dumping the clutch in 1st from a slow roll, with a good handful of throttle, and I swear the front end came off the ground. I recommend the @skydoc_17 Clutch Upgrade Kit to anybody that wants a stronger, more bullet proof clutch. It should prove especially effective when the bike is fully loaded (2up with luggage) and pulling a trailer. Mileage Work Started Empty Basket with "Dot-Dot" on primary in UP position and "Dot" on clutch boss in UP position Old Parts Saved For Possible Reuse.

Sjt to Kerville + Twisted Sisters + Vanderpool + Hwy 41 was 573 miles and took all day. Yes, I will call you (write you, PM you) next time I am your way. Would like to do the SE Texas Maint Day but don't know what work is doing that far out yet. If at all possible, I will be there.

Just got the 2013 RSV Service Manual in. Not only did the XVZ13TF series motorcycle not change since 1999, neither did the service manual. Still contains bad translations and inaccurate Nm to lbft conversions. Looks just like the 1999 PDF file. Just thought yall would like to know.

Rotella T6 is 5W-40 oil that is Diesel(CompressionIgnition-Diesel) "C" ((Commercial)) --- and Gas (SparkIgnition) "S" rated. It carries the SM rating for "Gasoline" engines and also the JASO -MA- rating. It is good stuff for your bike.

I can't stop watching this stuff.

I won't go there because it is too easy....... However, you gotta have a mighty nice vacuum leak on the carb boots if they are also spewing gas out of them. Might try some silicone sealer/adhesive on them.

Im gonna get wild. Shinko 230 on the front and a Shinko 777 on the rear.

The silicone valve would be an "upgrade" from the nitrile, and would last longer for 7500 - 10000 mile oil changes that cars are doing nowadays. The nitrile one will get stiff (stiffer) if ran that long. For a 4K oil change 2 or three times a year on the bike, I think the nitrile one would be fine. If you are just an occasional rider (some folks only put 1K miles a year on their bikes) and leave the oil in for a really long time, then I would get the silicone one because it will stand "age" better. Either is fine really. I myself am driving a lot now and I use the silicone one, just because psychologically it makes me feel better and I have a Parts America 5 miles from my house. I could get my wife to pick me up a Nitrile L14612 when she goes to Wally-World, but she won't get any parts for me anymore, because last time I sent her to the parts store to get "Spark Plugs" for my diesel. They all had a good laugh.

They are both the same except the yellow filter has a silicone anti drain back valve. L14612 = Nitrile PL14612=Silicone ... both short filter L14610 = Nitrile PL14610=Silicone ... both long filters

I have just kleaned my keyboard to avoid catching it from you. You know the drill. Drink lots of fluids. Get better soon!

YES!

Dear @midnightrider1300 Check this one out too... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/second-generation-venture-tech-talk/96009-oil-filter-comparisons-hey-engineer.html

Part #9 seems to be a "stay" that holds in freezeplug #12 . I don't know anything about 1st Gens, but on 2nd Gens the fake cyl covers do the same thing as your part #9 .